Need soil advice...help!!!

It's considered a fairly hot soil, so I don't feed other than extreme blend the first few weeks.

Every now and then I've seen seedlings get pale spots on the leaves for the first couple of days, but then it passes, so it may be a little too hot for some strains. I wouldn't mix any ferts in with it initially.

I fill my pots, and water them away from my plants. I like to see if the soil is going to have gnats or anything else that I need to deal with before I put plants in it.
You ever use dolomite lime my happy frog soil is 5.2 and I have dry dolomite lime and it say 1lb cover 100sq ft trying to figure out how to add to soil or should I crush and put in water❓
 
No, I don't even PH my soil.

Isn't it supposed to already be PH balanced? I know its appx 4-1-7 NPK This is why you add phosphorous much later.
 
It came back 5.2
So I got to add phosphorus ❓ when❓I just transplanted and fed I only gave half the recommended amount or should I feed whole amount❓ I only gave half of the 1/4 it recommended. Also some superthrive. Wish the little gg#4 babies luck.... Is this normal there size❓ they came out of germination on Feb 26th and the ones baby leave are dieing. Well thanks for your help.
 

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Phosphorus is added by the bloom nutrients, that's why their middle number is higher.

They continue to get yellower as the food in them is consumed. Eventually they fall off.

They'll pull through fine, just let them adjust.
 
Phosphorus is added by the bloom nutrients, that's why their middle number is higher.

They continue to get yellower as the food in them is consumed. Eventually they fall off.

They'll pull through fine, just let them adjust.
Ok thanks I hope the do...
 
Ok they said soil I was wrong but no nutes either.
This is just overly simplified advise to the point it's basically wrong,... Mainly they are saying that putting seedlings into a very rich soil will be too muc for them, and that much is true,... But they should mention that the milder the soil is, the more nutrient poor it is and if it's like most dedicated seedling mixes (or coco) it's not going to have near enough nutrients to boost your girls along. They may survive, even look OK , but will be smaller, much smaller than they could have been potentially. That's what I mean about having your early growth veg' game in good shape. It's not as easy as it sounds mate, all you can do is chose your info sources wisely and try your best when growing, experience is everything!

For HF, I'd start feeding weakly in the first week, to get stuff in there and starting to break down... That's the catch with organics, that delay... With synthetic's, the nutes are in chemical forms that plant can take in directly; with organics, some need to be broken down and converted into those forms.. Only specific chemical forms are able to be taken into the plant....

Have a read on chelation, and humic-fulvic acids in these two articles located in the Reference section....
I advise you to get a kelp product, a Silica product and some humic-fulvic, these will make a significant difference not matter what type of nutes you use...

What are your T's in that tent, high and low during a 24 hour period? Cold is a serious problem for auto's, especially dark hours... slow temps = slow nutrient break down and uptake, plus slow plant metabolism,.. all these combine to retard growth and as mentioned with auto's, always the clock is tic-tic-ticking away...
 
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You got some good gear up there. I’m high but at your service. The times i have been doing coco i started with an EC of 0.7-0.8 then raised 0.2 every week, or more when ween needed. My plants did great.

Can you please show me the paper where they say you shouldn’t use nutes for the first three weeks?

Are you nutrients cheleted?

Ive transplanted a girl from soil to coco, did perfect, except i fried her leafs later in bloom.

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I confirmed in an Email with Rocket seeds yesterday........
As per company policy, we do not give out any growing advice. However, we have seen that in the 1st 3 weeks, the plants perform best in soil that does not contain any nutrients or fertilizers for the first 3 weeks, the reason for that being that during that time the plants are sensitive and are unable to process the nutrients.

Regards,
CSR04
 
Ok they said soil I was wrong but no nutes either.
LOL...ok, now I get it...plain soil is going to have some nutrients in it, seems they mean no added ferts to your watering.....that's how it comes across from reading that....
 
O
K Tatts....you've mentioned Cal-Mag a couple times........What is your water that your using?....city tap, well tap, RO, distilled?......water quality plays a good part of it.....RO and distilled is about as pure, nothing in it as you can get. That way you know everything that is in it when you give it to your plants.....city tap may have chlorine and chloromides in it so got to let it sit out for 24 hrs or so to let it evaporate out.......well tap (which is mine) can play merry hobbs with your grow if you don't know your aquifer system......mine is limestone aquifer adding a lot of Calcium plus I was using Cal-Mag........MoG pointed it out to me so I switched to store bought RO/distlled and put the Cal-Mag on a back shelf to never see the light od day again.......saved that grow.....the Happy Frog and Dr. Earth should have some so you might not need to add any more in your feeding......just gonna have to wait and watch......
 
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