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thanks man im definitely considering it now, seems a lot cheaper for just a couple hours of effort. nice plants by the way!If you had more than 5’ I’d vote single cob fixtures all day long. Just for plug and play ability and they can definitely get to 2gpw once your environment is sorted ( in DWC). But with a short tent of that size I’d vote cheap and easy DIY QB132s. You can easily build a 300 watt for $225-250. And since it’s only 3” thick you can run that thing right up to the top.
I keep my LEDs tight to the plants and the plants stay short. Most of my plants are well under 2’ and I run good sized strains. Even with the DWC I’m still under 4’. And consistently bang out 5 zips per. You could run a fixture like this at 200w and kill it in the 2by4. The plant in the corner is finished stretching and the light is still below 5’. That light is COBView attachment 1028395View attachment 1028397View attachment 1028398
Unless I totally screw that plant up in flower she will hit 5 with ease. She’s just starting to build flower.
300 watts of guaranteed flowering goodness for $250. And no soldering, if you can hold a drill and tighten a bolt you can make these. Tutorials everywhere
I was going to get the QB132' s but 8 or 9 doesn't offer the coverage I really want especially when I plan to do a scrog. Thanks.I think that’s my next light build, very cool. My progression was COBs the QBs and next I’d like to figure out strips. Seems like the natural progression over the last few years. Crazy how for years HPS was standard and then in a fairly short period of time the homegrown market has made leaps and bounds with lights. I think commercial was able to afford before we were.
FB
I think wattage is still important but we should be looking to PAR and PPFD for the numbers that really matter. Fluence has a nice write up on the subject.What I would like to really dig into in my next couple of grows is with the QBs or strip lights how can I save as much money as possible while still maintaining quality. The the coverage is even why run lights at 300w at 18”, can’t I run them st 12” at 200w or 6” at 100w. Does wattage even matter any more in some respect. We have come so far from massive single point heat sources with huge BTU waste conversion why are we even trying to use them as s benchmark or baseline.
I guess technically I want some sort of understanding of the actual degradation of light over distance. How close and low I can run these lights. I assume at some wattage under optimal efficiency I may lose some aspects of spectrum possibly also.
Along with growing great weed my other motivation for growing is an insane need to perfect things and do them the best I can. I really want to become as insanely efficient at growing as I can be. That and looking at a plant a hearing it speak to you is a real cool thing. I hope I’m not the only one that hears them talking.
FB
What I would like to really dig into in my next couple of grows is with the QBs or strip lights how can I save as much money as possible while still maintaining quality. The the coverage is even why run lights at 300w at 18”, can’t I run them st 12” at 200w or 6” at 100w. Does wattage even matter any more in some respect. We have come so far from massive single point heat sources with huge BTU waste conversion why are we even trying to use them as s benchmark or baseline.
I guess technically I want some sort of understanding of the actual degradation of light over distance. How close and low I can run these lights. I assume at some wattage under optimal efficiency I may lose some aspects of spectrum possibly also.
Along with growing great weed my other motivation for growing is an insane need to perfect things and do them the best I can. I really want to become as insanely efficient at growing as I can be. That and looking at a plant a hearing it speak to you is a real cool thing. I hope I’m not the only one that hears them talking.
FB