Indoor Mz.W's perpetual grow...grow journal

[wheredaweedat]

Idk what day we're on....5 and? maybe? i dunno haha. my phone is being an ass and refuses to charge, so i come bearing no pictures

So I know I said I had 3 pots left and I was trying to decide on the strain for all 3 pots.
HOWEVER lol
I don't wanna stuff 5 plants into this tent. Im actually thinking about keeping 3 instead of 4. I haven't done 4 before (though, i cant imagine it being much different than growing 3 lol) and I'm worried about the humidifier being in the tent with the plants when they're flowering. I know people like Bots keep it it there..but..idk. moisture on my buds sounds like a bad idea lol. I know the humidity doesnt need to be nearly as high when they're in flower, but....even still lol And i feel like i have to keep the plants as far away from the humidifier mist as possible, which will be almost impossible once I've got 4 full size plants in there lol. so thats why im thinking of keeping 3 instead. IDK, we'll see i reckon.

I'm also thinking about throwing more soil into the pot with Critical+. She wasn't burried very deep at all when I planted her..and putting soil around the stem will ultimately end up more roots right? Never a bad thing...she's just so...tall. like....unreasonably tall lol.

so...ha.
at the time the beans were being ordered, Ice Cool wasn't initially in the cart. But something with K transferring the bitcoin was taking too long or something, so we ended up not actually ordering until the next day. That was when I snuck in the Ice Cool into the cart lol. But since we ordered with The Single Seed Center, I was able to only order one ice cool where we got 2 of everything else, and so he didn't notice the extra $$ lol. He's not the most observant person in the world lol. I probably could'v'e gotten away with more :thumbs: hahahah.
So I have 1 Ice Cool, 1 AK automatic, 2 sour bubbly, 2 amphetamine, 2 double diesel and 1 Tijuana.

K was saying that we should work out all the 'kinks' with tent growing before we start growing the new strains. And I kind of agree. We really need to figure out the temp and humidity things before we take it any further.

So we've got a 3x3x6 tent, an air cooled 400w hps, 2 fans and a humidifier (and there is a small clip on fan inside for circulation). I know that prior to getting the second fan, temps in the tent were 70-78F, but no matter what we did, we couldn't keep the humidity over 30%. then once we got the 2nd fan, the temp skyrocketed to 85F but the humidity was about 70%. Then the lights went off and I guess the RH went up to 89%?? So hes up there playing with it now, rearranging crap and what not. Hopefully though, we hit the sweet spot soon.

 

[AndyBotwin]

Just to clarify W, I don't keep my humidifier in there during flower. Once they show sex I pull it out and don't really worry about humidity anymore. Sometimes it might get down to 30% but the plants do just fine. I was only talking about when the plants are young.

 

[wheredaweedat]

ok yeah, lol that makes a bit more sense. Clarification, accepted

I did my slurry test and the pH im getting is uber similar to the readings I got with my tap water. :dunno:

Now, when I check the pH, I'm just waiting until the number stabilizes and thats my pH number right?

The situation is this. I put the pen into the solution and allow it to drop..or climb, respectively. Once the number stops I am using THAT number as the pH.
BUT.
If I move the pen at all after it stabilizes, the number will change. Do I let it keep going or do I just ignore it?
IE- during the slurry test, I was testing the soil in bag 1 of the roots. It stopped at 5.8...but when i went to remove the pen, i kinda...moved it before I took it out and it kept dropping.
So the question is, should I have let it keep going or am I good to settle with 5.8?

 

[Waira]

Hey there Mz'zz!.... yeah, I glad you tried SSC,..and they are speedy! :thumbs:... nice choices BTW,...and at this point in your grow experience, I'd say it equally important for you to try new strains as it is trying to dial a specific one in,...(especially if you weren't very impressed with it),... you likely as not may find some do even better than others previously,...auto's tend to be pretty variable in this regard too--- surprise surprise! :slaps:....***... Shweeet!-- you got Sir Bots and brudda A4 on your "Q & A panel"! You so luck-eeeee...! :roflcry: They got ya covered on your questions, solid,... I still will holler about you getting an Accurate 8 soil pH probe though!... nothing, but nothing, beats actual in-soil measurements,... ***... I'd stay with 3 plants too, GF,... just in case there's a few potholes in that learning curve!.... ***.... yes, chasing the temp and RH swings during cycling is a bit on a beating,...so I hear! As you know, I haven't done the tent thing myself so far,... Oh- gotta back track to the soil thread too,...
...:hug:..got you PM's, luv,... thank you, and Hazzah!! -on the other bizz! ...I'll get back to you more on that later,... :Cheers:

 

[A4]

ok yeah, lol that makes a bit more sense. Clarification, accepted

I did my slurry test and the pH im getting is uber similar to the readings I got with my tap water. :dunno:

Now, when I check the pH, I'm just waiting until the number stabilizes and thats my pH number right?

The situation is this. I put the pen into the solution and allow it to drop..or climb, respectively. Once the number stops I am using THAT number as the pH.
BUT.
If I move the pen at all after it stabilizes, the number will change. Do I let it keep going or do I just ignore it?
IE- during the slurry test, I was testing the soil in bag 1 of the roots. It stopped at 5.8...but when i went to remove the pen, i kinda...moved it before I took it out and it kept dropping.
So the question is, should I have let it keep going or am I good to settle with 5.8?

Sounds like your pen may need a little cleaning if it is moving a lot. If it is just a couple of points one way or another, like .2 or so, no big deal. 5.8, 6.0, not really much difference in the grand scheme of things. 5.8 sounds a little low for true soil but there again I am not used to working with bagged soil and if there are a lot of N amendments in it them that would explain the lower pH as N tends to drop pH quite a bit. As the plants begin working in the soil it should rise some.

Not sure if there was a question in there other than the pH pen but I will say, I wouldn't worry about a pH of 5.8. That is just me though. I like 5.8 to 6.2 in my soil. I know, let the flamers begin.

 

[Dazed]

ok yeah, lol that makes a bit more sense. Clarification, accepted

I did my slurry test and the pH im getting is uber similar to the readings I got with my tap water. :dunno:

Now, when I check the pH, I'm just waiting until the number stabilizes and thats my pH number right?

The situation is this. I put the pen into the solution and allow it to drop..or climb, respectively. Once the number stops I am using THAT number as the pH.
BUT.
If I move the pen at all after it stabilizes, the number will change. Do I let it keep going or do I just ignore it?
IE- during the slurry test, I was testing the soil in bag 1 of the roots. It stopped at 5.8...but when i went to remove the pen, i kinda...moved it before I took it out and it kept dropping.
So the question is, should I have let it keep going or am I good to settle with 5.8?

I found this this my pH pen. I shake mine gently, leave it to stabilise for a min, shake again. Only after a couple of mins or so does it stop changing, fwiw.

 

[wheredaweedat]

Sounds like your pen may need a little cleaning if it is moving a lot. If it is just a couple of points one way or another, like .2 or so, no big deal. 5.8, 6.0, not really much difference in the grand scheme of things. 5.8 sounds a little low for true soil but there again I am not used to working with bagged soil and if there are a lot of N amendments in it them that would explain the lower pH as N tends to drop pH quite a bit. As the plants begin working in the soil it should rise some.

Not sure if there was a question in there other than the pH pen but I will say, I wouldn't worry about a pH of 5.8. That is just me though. I like 5.8 to 6.2 in my soil. I know, let the flamers begin.

mmm...i cant say its moving a lot, but it does maybe a point or two.
and im not gonna flame you, i'm more interested to know why you prefer to go with a more acidic soil...Do you not run into nutrient related issues??

 

[A4]

mmm...i cant say its moving a lot, but it does maybe a point or two.
and im not gonna flame you, i'm more interested to know why you prefer to go with a more acidic soil...Do you not run into nutrient related issues??

A few points is normal, most I have used fluctuate a bit when swirling them in the water.

As for the flaming, I wasn't referring to you, just the scientists, lol. No, I don't run into nutrient related issues because most of the issues with nutrient deficiencies you see on forums are more related to pH being out of optimal conditions and a build up of nutrients in the soil. The higher EC causes micros and macros to tie each other up, which is often referred to as "lock out" and then leaf burning. So people will flush the soil thinking the pH is out of whack and that fixes it. It really just rinsed the excess nutrients out of the soil to begin again.

Boron is one of the most important and least talked about micros in the canna growing community. The main functions of boron relate to cell wall strength and development, cell division, fruit and seed development, sugar transport, and hormone development. Boron is best absorbed in the 5's and begins dropping off dramatically at 5.8 and at 6.5 is almost non existent. Boron aids in the transportation of calcium tremendously but also N, P & K. Calcium is also extremely important in cell wall growth.

Anyways, those are just my thoughts. There are a lot of people that will argue with it. I learned this from a biologist in the Netherlands that began making his own nutrients and I argued with him as well until I actually tried it. It works. He was also the one that recommended that I foliar feed with Calcium all the way through harvest, which is unheard of, it works also. There are a lot of rumors that float around the canna community and most of them are from people that are marginal gardeners.

 

[wheredaweedat]

huh.

So it seems that 6.5 isnt the optimal pH for cannabis then.

huh.

mind=blown, lol

 

[A4]

I don't mention it much because about 95% of the people that read that will argue. Considering it looks like waira is mentoring you, I don't mind doing it in your thread. Most people consider 5.8 a pH for hydro range, which is true. Here is the tricky part. Almost ALL grows we see are hydro grows. Even most organic grows are hydro grows. As you can imagine, that is a very polarizing statement. I will give you some information to legitimize that statement. Unless you are growing a living organic soil you are probably using water soluble nutrients, whether they are organic derived or synthetically derived. Because these nutrients are readily available to the plant, the plant does not differentiate between water and nutrients when taking it up. Regardless of whether it is in soil, peat, coco, or straight perlite. The plants senses water soluble nutrients all the same as water. So, for most growers, regardless of what you are growing in you are basically growing hydroponically unless you are growing with living soils and relying solely on the symbiotic exchange of plant/biology interaction.

Here is what causes the leaf burn because of nutrients. Because plants are symbiotic with micro-organisms they know that the more root exudant they put out, the more nutrients the biology will supply in return and the less exudant, the less nutrients will be created. The plant begins creating less root exudant, expecting less nutrients and begins taking in more water to try and dilute it down to a normal level… hang on now, it gets even more nutrients so it takes in more water, so on and so on. So this where most people begin to see they are over feeding and begin flushing the soil with water.

What causes most of your deficiencies isn't pH but incorrect nutrient ratios in the soil. Because these water soluble nutrients are taken up as a whole package with water, the plant doesn't differentiate between N, P, K, and so on. It just takes up what is in the soil. Most people have come up with some crazy concoction of different nutrients from different manufacturers that were never meant to be used together. This causes the imbalance in the soil and thus a deficiency or lock out of certain micros or macros. Plants need their nutrients in specific ratios for photosynthesis.

Hopefully this makes more sense than confusion. I am not good at explaining things on a keyboard.