August is full of surprises PLUS something BIG is coming! πŸ”₯


What could it be❓ Can you guess what's about to happen? 🀠


Drop your guesses below for a chance to WIN a mystery gift! 🎁 πŸ‘‡


Hint ➑ https://www.mars-hydro.com/
maybe a whole new range of tents made from some new space age mylar derivative.
 
πŸŽ‰πŸŽ‚ It's time to celebrate Mars Hydro's 15th BIRTHDAY! πŸŽ‰πŸŽ‚

August is going to be the craziest month yet with all the deals, discounts, and giveaways we have planned to thank our amazing fans!

We're incredibly grateful for your support over the years. To give back, we're offering at least 15% off, 5x points, gifts with purchase, and unbelievable flash deals during our anniversary celebration! This is going to be the wildest August ever! 🎊

Ends on: August 15th, 2024

Learn more ➑ https://www.mars-hydro.com/info/post/mars-hydro-15th-anniversary
 

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Who still hasn’t tried the Adlite series? πŸ€”

Does it really make your plants bushier and tastier when paired with your main grow light? πŸŒ±πŸ’‘

Let’s hear your thoughts! πŸ‘€

Explore more ➑ https://www.mars-hydro.com/adlite-supplement-led-grow-lights
I have the old style uva/ir bars and noticed buds were more dense, potent and flavorful than without. I added them to all my tents. Haven't tried the new supplements yet but the ability to time each independently is a game changer! I want them all!
 
Use the Earthbox!!!! Simple, Inexpensive, extremely effective and extremely productive!
I just bought 2 to try. I’ve put it off for a couple years, but finally pulled the trigger. The BuildASoil vids got me excited enough to make the change…I’m excited.
 
I just bought 2 to try. I’ve put it off for a couple years, but finally pulled the trigger. The BuildASoil vids got me excited enough to make the change…I’m excited.
Did you get regulars or juniors?
Juniors are really the best for most autos. With the wicking area in the center and center planted, it's about 14 days from Sprout when you'll be able to add a decent amount of water to the reservoir in about 21 days before you can fully fill it. When I say most Autos, I mean the more smaller size. While it can be done with the bigger varieties or heavy feeders, the nutrient mound will get pretty huge. Being organic it takes time for it to be available to the plant, so you gotta think ahead a little bit. An absolute must is keeping an eye on the root intrusion into the nutrient Mound. If it's completely covered with roots, you're too late! And it is perfectly fine to mound up the nutrients by quite a bit.

Now a regular earth box with autos, it's really best to do things a little different. Your larger and more longer lived autos will be best for a regular earthbox. One is the size of the container that will support a large plant. The other is the fact that a longer lived plant will have more time to establish that relationship with the wicking area. It takes longer to establish that relationship in a regular earth box since the wicking areas are on each end. Now you can actually shorten that time period to almost exactly the same as a junior, by planting on one end. The training technique you would use with that scenario is let it come up and then take a top pull toward the other end of the Earth box. This avoids the stress of topping and actually does the same thing as topping, but in a very low stress manner. The laying over method of training will give you a very large amount of tops. The bottom branches will turn upward and form tops.

The main thing with Earthboxes is to Strive to keep nutrients out of the reservoir. You can get by with it sometimes and then other times it will bite you in the butt! I screwed up in my 4x4 tent on the current grow with the exact thing I'm talking about. I monitored the root intrusion into the nutrient mound, but I ignored it for a few days because I really didn't believe the extent that it had intruded. It was far sooner than it had in the any other grow beforehand. Then I noticed a fade in the color and tried to make it up by adding some FFJ to my nutrient mound. Well some of that washed into the reservoir and I added water to the reservoir too soon. This caused the reservoir reservoir to flip in ph and damaged my roots. I probably could have got by if I had not added the water too soon. And I may have gotten away with it, if it had been a previous grow. But I'm using additional CO2 in this grow and upped the lights. When running like that, the plant is growing at a crazy rate and your nutrients must be in order. Things got bad quickly because of the rate of growth. That's it plain and simple.
Feel free to message me or post up in my thread, if you have any questions. Taking look at my ongoing thread that's in my signature. I thoroughly document what I do. I'd be happy to help you in any way possible.
 
Did you get regulars or juniors?
Juniors are really the best for most autos. With the wicking area in the center and center planted, it's about 14 days from Sprout when you'll be able to add a decent amount of water to the reservoir in about 21 days before you can fully fill it. When I say most Autos, I mean the more smaller size. While it can be done with the bigger varieties or heavy feeders, the nutrient mound will get pretty huge. Being organic it takes time for it to be available to the plant, so you gotta think ahead a little bit. An absolute must is keeping an eye on the root intrusion into the nutrient Mound. If it's completely covered with roots, you're too late! And it is perfectly fine to mound up the nutrients by quite a bit.

Now a regular earth box with autos, it's really best to do things a little different. Your larger and more longer lived autos will be best for a regular earthbox. One is the size of the container that will support a large plant. The other is the fact that a longer lived plant will have more time to establish that relationship with the wicking area. It takes longer to establish that relationship in a regular earth box since the wicking areas are on each end. Now you can actually shorten that time period to almost exactly the same as a junior, by planting on one end. The training technique you would use with that scenario is let it come up and then take a top pull toward the other end of the Earth box. This avoids the stress of topping and actually does the same thing as topping, but in a very low stress manner. The laying over method of training will give you a very large amount of tops. The bottom branches will turn upward and form tops.

The main thing with Earthboxes is to Strive to keep nutrients out of the reservoir. You can get by with it sometimes and then other times it will bite you in the butt! I screwed up in my 4x4 tent on the current grow with the exact thing I'm talking about. I monitored the root intrusion into the nutrient mound, but I ignored it for a few days because I really didn't believe the extent that it had intruded. It was far sooner than it had in the any other grow beforehand. Then I noticed a fade in the color and tried to make it up by adding some FFJ to my nutrient mound. Well some of that washed into the reservoir and I added water to the reservoir too soon. This caused the reservoir reservoir to flip in ph and damaged my roots. I probably could have got by if I had not added the water too soon. And I may have gotten away with it, if it had been a previous grow. But I'm using additional CO2 in this grow and upped the lights. When running like that, the plant is growing at a crazy rate and your nutrients must be in order. Things got bad quickly because of the rate of growth. That's it plain and simple.
Feel free to message me or post up in my thread, if you have any questions. Taking look at my ongoing thread that's in my signature. I thoroughly document what I do. I'd be happy to help you in any way possible.
I’m actually going a different route. I’ve been running 7G bags & most of my plant’s roots pretty much take up the whole bag & root into the bottom.
Because of that & the weird-tent less space, I opted to go against the grain & try the Root & Veg boxes. They’re 3” deeper (from the EB screen) than the bags which isn’t much & should work well. I’ve been following a couple growers on another site running autos in them & the results have been spectacular.
 
I’m actually going a different route. I’ve been running 7G bags & most of my plant’s roots pretty much take up the whole bag & root into the bottom.
Because of that & the weird-tent less space, I opted to go against the grain & try the Root & Veg boxes. They’re 3” deeper (from the EB screen) than the bags which isn’t much & should work well. I’ve been following a couple growers on another site running autos in them & the results have been spectacular.
And I think they would be an interesting Earth box to use! Everything else I said still applies .
 
And I think they would be an interesting Earth box to use! Everything else I said still applies .
Cool. I’m going to pick up some 1/2” PVC plugs & stainless screws to reinforce the screens on the 2 floating corners.
Question: Do you think it would be better to pack the wicks with straight peat instead of the mix to improve wicking? I’m trying to be proactive on any possible flaws with these particular boxes.
 
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