Indoor Mars Hydro grow journal: WildBill does Hubbabubbasmelloscope in EarthBoxes under MarsHydro SP3000

Bubbah says it's time fer a damn
giphy.gif



CANNA UPDATE!

Ok Bubba! Chill Bro! Here:pass:




I needed to check a few things yesterday.

I checked for any signs of worms under the avocados. I felt that was the best place to check first. Nope!:fire:

I next gave the HBSS a half gallon each. I slowly poured until I see drips coming out the overflow. It's easy to see on the right girl, but it's hard to see on the left one..............damn left being difficult!:mrgreen::rofl::rofl:

But I HAZ an idea to make it better! It's really simple that will raise up the EB so I can set something under it to catch the over flow and I don't have to be real careful in filling the rez and it will make it a little more stable. I'll try to get it made tomorrow..

The search for worms moved to maybe finding them when I'm mixing in the old bokashi in the top layer and appling fresh. Since I was already there, I figured it was time to topdress them. It had been close to a month since starting I'm figuring these girls are gonna hit pretty hard very soon and I'm just not sure the worms are working, I mean alive TO work.

For each EB:

Ground up 4 table spoons of Thorvin Kelp
Ground up 1/2 cup of Alfalfa meal
One cup of DuMore Chicken crumble
1/2 cup of bokoshi
Wettted it all down with rainwater with a pinch of yucca powder for wetting better
IMG_20210202_185033778_HDR.jpg


Well, I found no signs of the worms. It's not too hot on the top of the soil.......now. They may be under the compost. It;s roughly an inch thick. The black up shower cap may have just killed them. As robust as the girls are, I'm afraid I'll disturb some roots, even on the far end. I'm not gonna worry about it any further. It's too far in the grow to make that much of a difference and then try to recover them at the end of the grow. While disappointing, it's not the end of the world and they just could be deep, but doubtful.
I'm amazed at the girls in the EBs so far. If this run does well, I'll be using it in every grow. I've seen pics of big HBSS, this may just be the case in the grow. The growth rate is just plain readily observable. I wish I had time-lapse abilities. I'm just gonna have to do that some day. I've seen it with other growers and I think it would be cool to see my own in time-lapse girls.

Speaking of growth: Here's the main stem.
IMG_20210202_190938594_HDR.jpg


It's quite a bit bigger than Kong or Stomper

After I finished all that, I moved up a node or two on the top pull. She had got sturdy enough to take a pull higher up.

Maybe you guys can spot the growth rate. Sorry about the angle difference.

Around 5PM today
IMG_20210203_171012808_HDR.jpg


A few min ago.
IMG_20210204_010406694_HDR.jpg

If ya can't see it, at least ya can tell from the last set.

Kong and Sour Stomper are doing great.
I have a naughty bits pic too.:eyebrows::eyebrows:
It's Kong.
IMG_20210202_185206316_HDR.jpg


I'd really would have liked to add some of my ewc to this dressing, but I didn't want it to possibly get too muckey if indeed the worms are alive. I'm gonna keep checking the avocado in say a week and if I see no signs of worm, I'll add it to the topdressing the next week. I think every two week amendment is plenty in these pots and with my amended media.

I'd like some input on this train of thinking.........and hopefully it’s not a slow train.......
tenor.gif


The bokashi is both fungal and bacterial, correct? One would assume that have a mix that one wouldn't over power the other. They should be able to move pretty easy in these EBs. I am considering drain the rez and adding Recharge at half rate and fill the rez. And then drain and fluch two or three days later. Three days should be enough for the microbes to move around the media. I think doing this one week after top dressing and refreshing the bokoshi and any amendments.
I think a balance between the fungal and bacterial populations. This could be a way of assuring that there is a balance of sorts. I don't see how it could hurt if I follow the above. Might be wasteful, but not harmful.

I have the lights right at 25in at this time. I'm not moving it down. It's not going to be too many days and I'll be moving them up from the growth.:eyebrows:
I think the girls are pretty close to adding CO2. I think it's pretty prime with their rate of growth in the EBs is had been ready a few days ago. I was waiting for the two regular pot girls to "get up on the cam" with their growth rate and size. I think things are developed enough to begin to fully optimize all the factor of growth. Notice I didn't say maximize. I'm not gonna push the girls too hard. I just don't see the need to do that.

Oh yeah, I almost forgot.............I am :baked:

Look at some new sites getting more of that SP3000!
Ya! :naughtystep:

What ya think about this Marshydro?
IMG_20210204_010448851_HDR.jpg

IMG_20210204_010459921_HDR.jpg

The green is fine on the leaves. The SP3000 don't get along with my phone's camera and an over head shot is even worse. I might throw in a natural light in there for pics and maybe working. I DON'T have that damn purple burple light on when I'm working. The conbo works for growing canna, but that that light suck even with very good sun/light glasses.
I'm just gonna keep laying them over and leaf tucking.

JESUS! It's 2:45 AM! I just have to stop that gelato late at night....even with chocolates! Time fer me to crash!
 
Yeah, I need to reset my sleep schedule!:sadcry::hump:

Morning ........late......check shows naughty bits all over the place. While looking at Kong closely, she greeted me with a little :gassy:. It must be fairly strong. I had no problem catching that wiff with my stuffy nose.
That was a nice surprise.
 
Ya got me thinking mate , With your EBs it is no different than when I am building soil . I have mine covered in hard black plastic type of stuff . What I found to keep the worms happy and not die or want to run away is - Soil temp - Moisture level in the soil , Which I would say you would have right - Food is a big one , but I don't think that is a problem , so I would think not enough worms is the issue . If you don't already know it a easy way to catch them is to use water and dish washing liquid , mix it up pour it around the tree and wait a bit and they will pop up every where . Then rinse them and they will be fine . A balance between the a balance between the fungal and bacterial populations , I don't think it hurts . I would say my soil is that way . This next bit of info I first found a while back .
Key Points
  • Soil bacteria and soil fungi are the start of the soil food web that supports other soil organisms and the functions of a healthy soil.
  • Diverse populations of soil bacteria and fungi can suppress root diseases.
  • Soil bacteria and fungi are encouraged by ground cover and organic matter inputs.
  • Populations of soil bacteria change rapidly depending on moisture, time of year, type of crop, stubble management, etc.
  • Soil fungi are slower to develop, and are strongly set back by cultivation.


Soil bacteria
Bacteria are the most abundant microbes in the soil. They are single celled organisms, and there can be billions of bacteria in a single gram of soil. Populations of bacteria can boom or bust in the space of a few days in response to changes in soil moisture, soil temperature or carbon substrate. Some bacteria species are very fragile and may be killed by slight changes in the soil environment. Others are extremely tough, able to withstand severe heat, cold or drying. Some bacteria are dependent on specific plant species.



Soil fungi
Soil fungi are microscopic plant-like cells that can be single celled (e.g. yeast) or grow in long threadlike structures or hyphae that make a mass called mycelium. They can be symbiotic with plant roots (figure 1). Fungi are generally not as dependent on specific plant species as some bacteria, and populations are slower to develop.



Figure_1.JPG


Figure 1: Hyphae from mycorrhizal fungi emerging from plant roots. Photo: Paula Flynn, Iowa State University Extension

Types of bacteria
Decomposers: play an important role in the early stages of decomposition of organic materials (in the later stages fungi tend to dominate).

Nitrogen fixers: extract nitrogen gas from the air and convert it into forms that plants can use, and can add the equivalent of more than 100 kg/ha per year of nitrogen to the soil. Rhizobium bacteria live in special root nodules on legumes and can be inoculated onto legume seeds. Other free-living nitrogen-fixing bacteria associate with non-legumes, but inoculating with these organisms has not proved effective in increasing nitrogen fixation for non-legume crops.

Disease suppressors: release antibiotic substances to suppress particular competitors. A number of bacteria have been commercialised for disease suppression. Their effect is often specific to particular diseases of particular crops and may only be effective in certain circumstances.

Actinobacteria: help to slowly break down humates and humic acids in soils, and prefer non-acidic soils with pH higher than 5.

Sulfur oxidisers: Thiobacillus bacteria can covert sulfides (common in soil minerals but largely unavailable to plants) into sulfates, a form plants can use.

Aerobes and anaerobes: Aerobic bacteria need oxygen, and dominate in well drained soil. Anaerobic bacteria do not need oxygen, and favour wet, poorly drained soils. They can produce toxic compounds that limit root growth and predispose plants to root diseases.



Fungi groups
Decomposers: are essential for breaking down woody organic matter, They play an important role in immobilising and retaining nutrients in the soil. The organic acids they produce help create soil organic matter that is resistant to degradation.

Mutualists: develop mutually beneficial relationships with plants. Mycorrhizal fungi are the best known, and grow inside plant roots. Arbuscular mycorrhiza (VAM) are the most common, especially in agricultural plant associations. These fungi have arbuscles, growths formed inside the plant root that have many small projections into root cells, as well as their hyphae outside the root (figure 1). This growth pattern increases the plant’s contact with the soil, improving access to water and nutrients, while their mass of hyphae protects roots from pests and pathogens.

Pathogens: (including the well known Verticillium, Phytophthora, Rhizoctonia and Pythium fungi) penetrate the plant and decompose the living tissue, leading to weakened or dead plants. Where disease symptoms are seen, the pathogenic fungi is usually the dominant organism in the soil. Soils with high biodiversity can suppress soil-borne fungal diseases.



Management of soil bacteria
Though largely unaffected by cultivation, bacteria populations are depressed by dry conditions, acidity, salinity, soil compaction and lack of organic matter. Except in the case of certain seed inoculations, it is very difficult to build desirable populations of bacteria just by adding them to the soil. If populations of soil bacteria are low, it is probably because conditions are unfavourable. Effective approaches (that have multiple benefits) to support healthy soil bacteria are to address problems of acidity and compaction, ensure good ground cover and build organic matter.



Management of soil fungi
You can encourage fungi in your soil by providing food (organic matter), water and minimal disturbance of the soil. Growing pastures and crops that support mycorrhizal fungi allow fungi to increase in the soil.

Plant groups that do not form associations with mycorrhizal fungi are the Cruciferae family (eg mustard, canola, broccoli), Chenopodiaceae (eg spinach, beets, saltbush) and Proteaceae (banksia, macadamia). When these plants are included in a rotation, fungi numbers drop. A bare fallow has the same effect.

Tillage has a disastrous effect on fungi as it physically severs the hyphae and breaks up the mycelium. Broadspectrum

and the plants are looking great . :thumbsup:
 
hecno

Thanks for the info and sharing your thoughts. I like valued info in my threads. Not only I can learn, anyone currently following and future readers can find some good value in growing canna.

I fully believe in biodiversity at every single level of the environment.

The only mono-culture I've ever grown was an early strain(late 50s) of Coastal Bermuda for hay. Great strain for production, with high protein content at harvest and extensive deep root structure for excellent drought survival. Later strains sacrificed deeper roots, general lower protein content for slightly increased bulk production .
For soil building, cover crop for bare soil and winter dormant cycle cover crop, in my final rendition, I think it was 12-15 different plants. Each were chosen for it's specific contribution to the soil either during it's growth cycle and/or it's contribution after it's life cycle. Some fix nitrogen. Some have deep roots that bring up deep nutrients and break up hard pan and provide pathways for future root structure. Some contribute large bulk amounts of carbon to the soil, highly needed for my sandy loam soil. All add different micro nutes that particular plant will utilize and leave in an available form and location for the cash crop.

I still haven't got a reply from the "canna guy" at the company that makes EM1 product I have. I guess I gave him some tough questions. LOL!
They are actually really close to me and I may just stop by. :hump: I just want to be able to have it as an additional tool that won't upset the box equilibriumin pH or microbes.
 
OH NOES!!!!
IT'S SECRET STORY TIME!


MV5BZjQ1NzEzMzItNjc1Ny00ZDE1LTkxNzQtMmIwNDRmNzU2YzU4XkEyXkFqcGdeQXVyMjQzNzk2ODk@._V1_SX300.jpg
:funny:

Actually it's a confession of a damn stoner moment!:baked:
I just got everything set back up after making something to raise up the EarthBoxes. All of that went without a hitch. It took me about 15 min to make them and they work like I wanted. I cut down two containers I had handy, slid them underneath and poured water in at a good rate and stopped when a fair amount of water came out the overflow. No worries, no super cautious pouring of the water and no mess!:headbang::headbang:


Looking at the EBs, I was thinking about how HBSS is gonna test my LST skills with the way they are jumping and their structure. I was thinking about the ppfd figures and getting the right coverage.................and then it hit me. No way! No friggin way! I get to the side of the tent and reach up to the dimmer switch I have mounted on a shelf with the light driver and the outlet strip.

WELL DAMMIT!
I HAD THE DIMMER TURNED DOWN!
ALL THE DAMN WAY DOWN!!!
:funny::funny::funny::funny:

Well, at least it's the first stoner moment in growing so far! I think it's been like that for 3 or 4 cycles. LOL! I guess that explains why I had to turn up the oil heater a little and how the new structures were forming. Good thing the other light was at full blast!:funny:

With all the silly crap out of the way, I can give a proper update.

Here's the pieces I made to raise up the EBs.
Four 10in 2x4s
Eight 10in 1x2s
I just used a 1x2 to evenly space out the other 2 and nailed them down.
The rollers fit fine and it's very stable. I could have got my router and rounded the inner sides of the 1x2s to let the rollers fully sit on the 2x4, but they were just barely sitting off it.
Just one more thing that make the grow a little easier. I'll have to move whatever may be in between the two EBs, I'll water the EBs first thing and do other things while they finish dripping. This will also allow me to flush the rez if is becomes needed.
IMG_20210204_170559080_HDR.jpg



Another surprise, but a good one this time. It wasn't there this morning.
Miss Stomper is not shy with her bud formation
I fully believe 60-65 days stan_mephisto


26 DAYS

IMG_20210204_174904191_HDR.jpg

IMG_20210204_174908735_HDR.jpg


All the girls back in place.
LET THE GROWING AND FLOWERING CONTINUE!
..............now that ALL the lights are 100%
IMG_20210204_174949870_HDR.jpg
 
Last edited:
OH NOES!!!!
IT'S SECRET STORY TIME!


MV5BZjQ1NzEzMzItNjc1Ny00ZDE1LTkxNzQtMmIwNDRmNzU2YzU4XkEyXkFqcGdeQXVyMjQzNzk2ODk@._V1_SX300.jpg
:funny:

Actually it's a confession of a damn stoner moment!:baked:
I just got everything set back up after making something to raise up the EarthBoxes. All of that went without a hitch. It took me about 15 min to make them and they work like I wanted. I cut down two containers I had handy, slid them underneath and poured water in at a good rate and stopped when a fair amount of water came out the overflow. No worries, no super cautious pouring of the water and no mess!:headbang::headbang:


Looking at the EBs, I was thinking about how HBSS is gonna test my LST skills with the way they are jumping and their structure. I was thinking about the ppfd figures and getting the right coverage.................and then it hit me. No way! No friggin way! I get to the side of the tent and reach up to the dimmer switch I have mounted on a shelf with the light driver and the outlet strip.

WELL DAMMIT!
I HAD THE DIMMER TURNED DOWN!
ALL THE DAMN WAY DOWN!!!
:funny::funny::funny::funny:

Well, at least it's the first stoner moment in growing so far! I think it's been like that for 3 or 4 cycles. LOL! I guess that explains why I had to turn up the oil heater a little and how the new structures were forming. Good thing the other light was at full blast!:funny:

With all the silly crap out of the way, I can give a proper update.

Here's the pieces I made to raise up the EBs.
Four 10in 2x4s
Eight 10in 1x2s
I just used a 1x2 to evenly space out the other 2 and nailed them down.
The rollers fit fine and it's very stable. I could have got my router and rounded the inner sides of the 1x2s to let the rollers fully sit on the 2x4, but they were just barely sitting off it.
Just one more thing that make the grow a little easier. I'll have to move whatever may be in between the two EBs, I'll water the EBs first thing and do other things while they finish dripping. This will also allow me to flush the rez if is becomes needed.
View attachment 1283714


Another surprise, but a good one this time. It wasn't there this morning.
Miss Stomper is not shy with her bud formation
View attachment 1283715
View attachment 1283716

All the girls back in place.
LET THE GROWING AND FLOWERING CONTINUE!
..............now that ALL the lights are 100%
View attachment 1283719
My stoner moment was when I took vacation. Get the cloner all setup and ready to go. Leave for vacation. Come back to a bunch of crisps. Set it all up and never plugged in the pump :doh: plants look awesome in the EB's!
 
My stoner moment was when I took vacation. Get the cloner all setup and ready to go. Leave for vacation. Come back to a bunch of crisps. Set it all up and never plugged in the pump :doh: plants look awesome in the EB's!
Yup! That was a good one! I'm glad mine did no real damage.

Thanks! I'm very happy and slightly scared with the growth of the girls in the EBs.
 
Hell, my light is dimmed a lot here :haha: Try growing under the sun in Southeast Alaska:rofl: I wish I could grow indoor but we're off-grid and every watt is precious. Plants looking good, bet they'll be real happy now:thumbsup:
 
Hell, my light is dimmed a lot here :haha: Try growing under the sun in Southeast Alaska:rofl: I wish I could grow indoor but we're off-grid and every watt is precious. Plants looking good, bet they'll be real happy now:thumbsup:
Man! I can only imagine how tight it can get. Do you have a windmill too for the dark period?
If I can keep my fingers off the damn dimmer, they should be happy now! :funny: :funny:
 
Lol! No harm no foul, @WildBill . I have a temp hunkity controller that I can set and plug in a small heater and a humidifier for when the low or high temp/ humidity settings are triggered, one or the other turns on on until the vid is back within range. Well, when I first set it up I attached the heater to the cooling plug, so it created a loop situation, my high temps would trigger the cooling element to turn on, which just made the room warmer since it was connected to a heater. I couldn’t figure out why the cabinet was registering 100 degrees for a couple days, thankfully, the plants made it through. I think they were stunted though.

‘Really good soil information there.@hecno. Thanks for sharing.
 
Back
Top