Mañ'O'Green and GreenLeaf 2 part for Autos

[Mañ'O'Green]

This is what I came up with for my 5gal bucket .which I'll do 4.5 g..... I told you I'm not good with math.... MOG...
First 9 weeks... Same....
Week 3-5
PartA 6.25g
PartB 4.16g
Vit b 3.33g only 25% npk vit b 75%epsom salt..
Humic acid 2 3/4 tbspn seems like to much I'm using npk humic acid...
Kelp 1.25g
K 1g
P 1g
Gypsum is it 2g or 8g ?
Amino 1g
Ominia 1g
Silica 1g
Yucca 0.25g
Is this right? Or do I need to adjust some things? Need your help.... Thanks

All good except the humic acid. 1/2 teaspoon in 5 gallons is plenty. Right off the back of the package.

I am using a liquid product.

 

[InkAddict$]

All good except the humic acid. 1/2 teaspoon in 5 gallons is plenty. Right off the back of the package.

I am using a liquid product.

Ok thanks I appreciate it

 

[InkAddict$]

Will this matter I grow in HP promix biofungicide mycorrhizae high porosity peat based soil? With your schedule? Mix for 5 gal bucket?

 

[Hotshot]

@Mañ'O'Green I’ve been reading on the forum for a while and I greatly appreciate all the knowledge here. I downloaded your spreadsheet. I’m growing ak47 photos in soil with clay pebbles in XL Autopots and have been struggling to find the sweet nute spot. Any guidance on if your sheet can be applied to my grow?

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

@Mañ'O'Green I’ve been reading on the forum for a while and I greatly appreciate all the knowledge here. I downloaded your spreadsheet. I’m growing ak47 photos in soil with clay pebbles in XL Autopots and have been struggling to find the sweet nute spot. Any guidance on if your sheet can be applied to my grow?

@Hotshot Welcome to AFN The first thing you need to remember is that I grow hydroponic and my schedule is designed for hydroponics. That does not mean that you cannot adapt it to your grow style but it will require a bit of trial and error to get the fertigation schedule adapted to your media. Are you using clay pebbels only? If so then that is hydro and this schedule should work fine.

This is my current schedule:

It is paramount that you have all of the products on this list if you want to succeed. Just a small change in any one of them messes up the balance.

In my reservoir I only add the Kelp, Humic Acid, Omina, Silica, Amino acids, and Yucca once a week when I change the reservoir out. In the middle of the week I top off the reservoir with Part A, Part B, Epsom, K,P, and gypsum to bring the res back up to the starting PPM. I do this by mixing:

Part A, K,and P in a gallon of water at the original strength. For example Week 8 17g Part A, 2g k, 2g P. in one gallon. Then I mix Part B 3g in seperate gallon of water. Then at the end of the fertigation cycle day the reservoir will be down about 6 gallons I add water to raise to ~11 gallons then dump 1/2 gallon of Part A let the pump mix a bit then I add 4g Epsom, Let it stir a bit then add 1/2 gallon of Part B, let it mix then finally 4g gypsum. This will return the reservoir back to the starting PPM for fertigation the next day.

When the plants are smaller and I am running only about 4 gallons out of the reservoir I just use about 1/3 gallon each of the concentrated mix to bring it back to the starting numbers.

I hope this helps and makes sense to you.

 

[Hotshot]

Thank you For the very detailed explanation. In my aquapot system i’m currently using clay pebbles on the bottom with an air stone and soil the rest of the way. The plants were doing well but I think there might be some kind of root issue as it seems they are not up taking the water like they were doing several weeks ago so I’ve had to resort to top watering. This is only my first grow long time smoker. If I’m doing all soil in the aquapot system would you say your sheet would be too hot or not hot enough for that kind of grow?

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

Well this opens a can of worms. A bottom fertigated soil pot will develop a salt line in the pot. This is where the minerals carried up by the water can no longer be lifted by the capillary action of the water. The salt line can become quite loaded with salts and Toxic. Top watering will have them running down in the pot at toxic strengths.

I would suggest an emergency flush (normally I do not recommend flushing soil) do a 100% flush followed by a 60% top fertigation ASAP. Do you have Botanicare HydroGuard or Southern AG Garden Friendly Fungicide? I would use some in the fertigation just in case. I am fairley confident you are having a toxic salt problem. The grow will go downhill fast if this is the case.

 

[Hotshot]

Such a wealth of knowledge! Does the salt line develop because of the clay pebbles on the bottom or the soil on top of that? So what you are suggest is flushing all the pots. I assume I can do this by taking them outside and flushing with regular water? After they are flushed and put back onto the Aquapot system then I should run the Hydro guard or fungicide?

 

[Hotshot]

Put this one outside….roots look ok I think

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

Put this one outside….roots look ok I thinkView attachment 1490669View attachment 1490670

How did I miss this for a month - dang stoner....

Wow that shows exactly the water dynamics in soil stratification reflected in the root growth.

Starting from the top there were dry spells are evidenced by the chevron shape roots then just below a bit of a void. Roots grow incredibly even in a consistent environment with no voids. the really amazing part is when you get to the clay balls. You have an air gap then a mat of tangled roots maybe so tightly tangled you got some root blocking water wicking up?

I am not a fan of clay balls.