Light green/yellowish leaves, all 4 plants

[Stooby snacks]

Gotta get that water dechlorinated somehow... fill a bucket the nite before and let it gas off.

 

[umop apisdn]

stooby, you read my mind. i was just worrying about that while mixing up some recharge for my other plants. im going to just get an RO setup installed and check that possibility off my list before my next grow.

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

I just looked at your water report and you are dealing with Cholromines not Chlorine!

Simple fix:

Chloramines do not dissipate in the air and they are not good for your grow environment. It is very easy to treat for it. Just use ascorbic acid.

Chloramines Removal

You are looking for ascorbic acid - vitamin C. The store brand is usually the cheapest without other stuff added in. 50mg per gallon will treat water with 3.8 PPM of chloramines.

 

[umop apisdn]

I just looked at your water report and you are dealing with Cholromines not Chlorine!

View attachment 1145268

Simple fix:

Chloramines do not dissipate in the air and they are not good for your grow environment. It is very easy to treat for it. Just use ascorbic acid.

Chloramines Removal

You are looking for ascorbic acid - vitamin C. The store brand is usually the cheapest without other stuff added in. 50mg per gallon will treat water with 3.8 PPM of chloramines.

Dude! You rock!! Today I transplanted my 4 photos (which also have a thread in the infirmary) and noticed my roots were so pathetic. i bet this is what's causing that and that's probably what's causing all my various issues! jesus... amen!

 

[Stooby snacks]

Good eye MoG, i missed that in the report.

 

[Stooby snacks]

Itd be nice if they actually listed chlorimine as its own element in the data sheet and not just tell you about the fact that they mix non chlorimine treated water with outside sourced chlorimine treated surface water.

 

[Waira]

... IMO, this isn't either light nor a chloramine issue... top to bottom paleness cannot be from too much light, wrong symptoms,... the form of Cl going in matters a great deal, and chloramine doesn't carry the same toxicity as straight Cl- that I know of....certainly not at drinking water levels for sure!
First concern is that damn Fuxfarm soil, notorious for shaky quality control....HF tends to be better than OF at least since it''s milder, but both have shown to be badly off pH (acidic) right out of the bag,... You've now found out that those cheapo probes aren't worth a crap - ...I found out the hard way too! Look into the Accurate 8 soil pH probe, a good unit for the $; mine has served me well for years now....
That in-pot pH is suspect, could be all lock-out issues here... if it's too acidic, S locks out and the symptoms are very much like what those plants show, top to bottom yellowing, tops typically worst because S is immobile within the plant,... P also locks out under overly acidic pH, compounding the color loss, and causing necrotic patches.....
You pH meter, has it been stored properly in the right solution, and never dried out? Calibrated? They are bitchy instruments, easily knocked off spec', so that needs to be confirmed as well,...
Meantime, what to do with this missing vital info,.... a flush with low ppm water may be wise, typically 2-3x pot volume, checking ppm and pH intermittently to see how the flush is progressing.... last pour should be 1/4 strength nutes to restore balance again.... do it in under 1/2 hour, flushing is basically water-boarding the roots! (O2 starvation kill them)... You can speed excess water removal by setting them on newspaper (1/4-1/2" thick) with a paper towel layer on top, to facilitate leaching/capillary effect....

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

@ waira I am not saying that there is not a whole host of potential problems going on here. OF right at the top of the list followed closely by PH.

I do believe chloramines are deadly to your root biome. I did not think chloramines were directly toxic to the plant. Chloramines are persistent - They don't break down in air like chlorine does. This is why it is used in some municipal water systems. Chlorine and Chloromines both kill bacteria and other organisms bad and good. In soil chloramines can kill the good bacteria that is breaking down the nutrients that feed the plant. Since Chloramine is more persistent it will have a greater potential to kill the very microbes that are feeding the plant.

I now believe it also has the potential to harm the plant directly since I just discovered this study. Granted it is not apples to apples but the proof of direct plant stunting to hydroponic lettuce is topical.

Lettuce.................... I know maybe some day the studies will be on cannabis.

 

[umop apisdn]

... IMO, this isn't either light nor a chloramine issue... top to bottom paleness cannot be from too much light, wrong symptoms,... the form of Cl going in matters a great deal, and chloramine doesn't carry the same toxicity as straight Cl- that I know of....certainly not at drinking water levels for sure!
First concern is that damn Fuxfarm soil, notorious for shaky quality control....HF tends to be better than OF at least since it''s milder, but both have shown to be badly off pH (acidic) right out of the bag,... You've now found out that those cheapo probes aren't worth a crap - ...I found out the hard way too! Look into the Accurate 8 soil pH probe, a good unit for the $; mine has served me well for years now....
That in-pot pH is suspect, could be all lock-out issues here... if it's too acidic, S locks out and the symptoms are very much like what those plants show, top to bottom yellowing, tops typically worst because S is immobile within the plant,... P also locks out under overly acidic pH, compounding the color loss, and causing necrotic patches.....
You pH meter, has it been stored properly in the right solution, and never dried out? Calibrated? They are bitchy instruments, easily knocked off spec', so that needs to be confirmed as well,...
Meantime, what to do with this missing vital info,.... a flush with low ppm water may be wise, typically 2-3x pot volume, checking ppm and pH intermittently to see how the flush is progressing.... last pour should be 1/4 strength nutes to restore balance again.... do it in under 1/2 hour, flushing is basically water-boarding the roots! (O2 starvation kill them)... You can speed excess water removal by setting them on newspaper (1/4-1/2" thick) with a paper towel layer on top, to facilitate leaching/capillary effect....

Just FYI guys... it's Happy Frog, not OF.

 

[Stooby snacks]

HF = Happy frog
OF = Ocean forest