Dx3 is looking better after an epsom salt spray down. The new growth isn't looking speckled between the veins like before but it is a little droopier than I would like to see it. Seems to fit with a magnesium deficiency. I'm wondering if it's also stressed from the light so I turned it down again this morning to 68W
Light Green Speckles on Mephisto DBCx3BOG and Purple Stems on Cosmic Queen
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- SoHum, that's a "water only' soil, so right now you shouldn't be using nutes at all,... but then, nor should you be having any defc.'s though! 
... and never flush this type of soil unless something is totally FUBAR, can't even imagine what would cause such a mess such "super soils"........ I'd say that's more likely early Mg defc., and if your epsoms (MgSO4) actually helped correct this (mild Mg defc. can be reversed in leaves symptoms) then that's what it is,.. Ca-Mg products can cover both bases of course, with truly available-now Ca and Mg, unlike hard tap water... Your very soft water is a lucky boon!
A word of caution with small pots and water only soils,.. the small volume means the nutrients will deplete out much faster, usually at the worst time-- bloom! I would seriously consider getting some mild nutes to boost up supplies later on.... This last grow, I tried Roots Organic Terp' Tea, a dry, very finely granulated organic feed... both grow and Bloom are available; I used bloom only... Nice nutrients! To boost PK more, consider their HPK product, basically liquid processed bat poo (0-4-3),... a little use of inorganic nutes isn't going to queer the deal at all either IMO, since getting a fat K boost is difficult with "organic" sources... a gentle formula like liquid KoolBloom (0-10-10) can do you well too... K is more important at the end especially, along with S and micronute Mn, all involved with terp' production,...
I highly recommend including humic-fulvic, kelp, and a micronute supp' to go along along with your inoculant and Si -
..... Earth Juice Microblast is the ticket for micro's; BioAg makes some of the best humic-fulvic out there... the Ful-Humic powder 100g bag will probably last you years, it's cheap, and very high quality....Thanks for the reply! There's a lot to learn - I'm really enjoying it. These are 1gal fabric pots. I started in these to try to learn how to get a feel for watering appropriately, but I think I've still been overdoing it. I watered 3.5 days ago and the pots are still wet 1/2" down or so but are significantly lighter than before - not dry weight though. The local shop owner said I'd need at least 5 gal pots but recommended 7 gal to get through the grow. I've read that I should wait to transplant until they're drinking water a lot faster. I'm not intending to do much training besides leaf tucking or support. Do you think it would be better to transplant up or to just start adding nutrients when they seem to need them? @Waira
So I've backed off the light a little, the foliar feed improved Dx3's leaves but it's still looking a lot droopier than it should. CQ is showing a different type of symptom but generally has been more perky. I'm not sure if they will need to be watered before I get back from the holiday in 48ish hours but I'm going to add a little calcium carbonate and epsom salt in water PH'd to 6.6 and have a friend check on them tomorrow. Seem like a good plan?
Happy Thanksgiving everyone!
Just checked my tap water PH and it is now 6.5 to 6.6 when it was 5.9 the first time. Maybe I should have been checking it every time...
Yep, 6.5 to 6.6 ph on my tap water now. I wonder what changed? I did a foliar feed with calcium carbonate at 6.9ph to see if that has any effect and left plain water out in case my friend needs to water before I'm back but I don't really expect he'll need to. I don't have anything to lower the PH so I will have to buy something to feed cal and mag next time around.
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Were you planning to transplant all along? Coming out of 1gal fabric pots may be of a challenge to not thrash the roots, which will likely stunt them out,... There's a definite technique to this! No matter how, even cutting the sides, avoid at all costs damaging the root ball... this can be difficult if they roots aren't well spread in the pot yet,... and done too late and you cramp them, stunting again,.... The pot size, in part, should be assessed by the plant known general size as well... 5's are probably fine for all but the largest auto's,... I know some folks who do pretty well in 1gal pots, if space is an issue, and you want max. variety... They will stay small as a general rule though.
Check out the Guide/Tutorial section,.. I have a low trauma transplant thread there, something to consider next round... Alternatively, you can just plant direct to final pots; for hot soil too rich for seedlings, you can make a core pocket of milder soil to sow into, which is shown in that tutorial,....
It's not unusual for tap water to squirrel around some in pH,... also, make sure your meter is calibrated and stored properly in the right solution, as they are touchy instruments and can be knock off spec' easily by dry-out, DI/RO water, etc.,.... 7.0 is a must for calibration, 4.0 as well to really dial it in,... The water pH is fine as is now, but if you need to lower it , citric acid is good (canning supply is the best deal)...
Look into getting a soil pH probe for in-pot measurements (, and not the cheapo skinny-ass type, they suck!)... The Accurate 8 is a good unit, mine has served very well for years now, and I have tested it against slurry readings, all within the +/- 0.2 error range..... organic/super soil or not, pH can and does go off in such a small "ecosystem", it's just less likely with such soils....
Check out the Guide/Tutorial section,.. I have a low trauma transplant thread there, something to consider next round... Alternatively, you can just plant direct to final pots; for hot soil too rich for seedlings, you can make a core pocket of milder soil to sow into, which is shown in that tutorial,....
It's not unusual for tap water to squirrel around some in pH,... also, make sure your meter is calibrated and stored properly in the right solution, as they are touchy instruments and can be knock off spec' easily by dry-out, DI/RO water, etc.,.... 7.0 is a must for calibration, 4.0 as well to really dial it in,... The water pH is fine as is now, but if you need to lower it , citric acid is good (canning supply is the best deal)...
Look into getting a soil pH probe for in-pot measurements (, and not the cheapo skinny-ass type, they suck!)... The Accurate 8 is a good unit, mine has served very well for years now, and I have tested it against slurry readings, all within the +/- 0.2 error range..... organic/super soil or not, pH can and does go off in such a small "ecosystem", it's just less likely with such soils....
