@Mizzo81 thanks for the reply. There's so much back and forth about "proper" light cycles for autos, and I'm so curious about what a controlled experiment would look like. Alas with autos we don't have access to clones. Though science will tell us that to achieve the same results with all other factors left unchanged, the grow that switches from 19/5 to 24/0 would need to have decreased light intensity if (and only if) at 19/5 one was at the upper end of optimal light levels. Do you by chance know your current ppfd or have a par meter? Would like to know when the run is over if you saw a decrease in photosynthetic response by keeping the light intensity the same. Could be the case if you were pushing them too hard.
@calliandra thanks for your reply. What's your setup looking like? I'm decently literate with some of the stuff going over your head and will add my 2 cents if my opinion is welcome.
I'm just starting my first autoflower run after being intrigued by what appears to be very fine and stable genetics from Mephisto. Side note: shout out
@mephisto for their Black Friday promo - one could almost feel like you made a mistake with the amount of freebies you throw in on top of the already generous price reduction. Users here are courteous, and it's a relatively small community where I think we can work together to form a cohesive advancement in our field. I've only done photos in the past, so this will be an opportunity for a unique trial of autos. I'm using a par meter and looking to reduce my ppfd to a cool ~400-500 running at 24/0. This is a change from my ideal ~800-1000 with photos. I don't run co2, or else these values would go up considerably. Going to see where this goes and test out dli for myself. Feel free to jump in this thread with any relevant info.
Oh that's awesome you're going to document that here, it's bound to be revelatory in understanding using DLI to optimize our grows indoors!
What strain(s) are you going to be growing?!
And your offer is like the music of angels, I'd be very happy for your knowledge and opinions too!
So are going to calculate the DLI with the formulas I was given too, or is there another method? And what does that weird 0.0036 represent?!
I don't have a meter unfortunately, but have grown Mephistos under COBs before, albeit in different closets. The
Sour Stomper I documented on here, she was started under 50W and gradually staggered up to 200W in a 50x90cm space at 18/6 light schedule. I recently grew a Skylar White in a small cabinet on a gas lantern schedule (6/2) to regulate high temps, at 50W all the way (distance to plant was only 15-20cm) in half of a 50x100 space (with another plant, and 50W, beside it). No online documentation on that one, she did OK, but after the Sour Stomper .9g/W was a meager yield.
And I just started up a
Cosmic Queen, at day 14 today, she's the one I'm looking to light up whilst flowering a Sensi Northern Lights#5 x Haze partitioned off in my new closet (75 x 150cm area at room height). Here's a quick visual from above as it is right now, the plants keep moving around in there
I won't flip the NLH for another week or so, still needing to source stuff for the partitioning
So the CQ will be in a space of about 75x75cm. Please let me know if you need me to convert my measurements to inches too?
As for lights, I don't have enough. The plan is to have 400W (+maybe some UV/far red supplementation) of full spectrum LED in there, and the current girls are supposed to pay for the upgrade
For now, it's
- the 4 Cree COBs: CXB3590 3500°K on 50W drivers (makes em modular, very useful in shifty situations!), just passively cooled for now
- and a MH/HPS set @150W - nooo idea how to estimate what they're actually putting out, without a meter?!
I was thinking of giving the CQ as the more hurried of the two 150W of the COBs and letting the NLH flower more sedately under the HPS (which I'd done before, she does well, 1g/W on my second grow, but she was scrogged) + 1 COB.
However, I used to see how
@TaNg grows his
pairs of autos first under 75, upping to 150W in flower - I
think at 20/4? Tang could you please correct me if I'm wrong?
So
maybe, if I upped the light time, I could even get away growing the CQ under just 100W, thus being able to give the unscrogged NLH, which will require more light penetration, better conditions too.
Ah why speculate when we have DLI? I just went and put together a lil spreadsheet that does all the math for me, and -
IF this calculation method is legit, (I can only say it has seemed to work for me to now) I could actually do that, as with 100W running for 21.4 hours, I still get the DLI of 35
check out the spreadsheet I'm attaching I made to spare my brain
Maybe it could actually work for anyone if you have the values for the light's LER and QER...
Ah. AFN won't let me attach it.
Here's a link to it instead:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ewuq9vm8fd8d1y5/DLI_calculations.ods
Cheers!
