Indoor JayGeeCanuck's Bruce Banner grow

I bought the kit. Says its best to use it within 6 months. Might be about 7 ish months once im done. Should be ok?

Also first winter grow im trying out. Outdoor temps are cool now. Not sure what's gonna happen in 2-3 months when it's -40 outside...

I have a space heater in the room, but Im thinking I might need something more.. we'll see lol
Hello from another Canuck. If you are doing an indoor grow during that kind of cold winter weather, you are likely going to need humidification to stay within reasonable VPD range. In my current 4x4, I need full time humidification inside the growdrobe to keep it from being much too dry, and it is only just barely freezing outside at the moment. Without the humidifier, I could not prevent RH from going way too low, likely into the mid 30% range, and it would be far worse at colder outdoor temps. Also, you mention the issue of when to start fertigating. With Coco, you need to do it from the beginning, no question. Coco is pretty much inert, there is bugger all in it for nutrients unless you put them there.

Good luck with the grow mate, I love your irrigation setup. My choice of autopots may have been different had I known what a pain in the ass nute buildup can be with the subirrigated design. Doing the job with automated top watering with runoff may be a preferable way to grow with salt nutes, in my slightly revised opinion.

With living soil however, autopots may be perfect. My current grow may sort this for me. :biggrin:
 
Thanks Growmie!

Ive been trying to balance out the humidity and exhaust given how dry it is (~32% in the grow room). If the exhaust fan runs continously on low, temp stays around 22c and the humidifier runs constantly, which requires refilling daily. I've bumped up the set point in the inkbird, so it's basically turning on for a few minutes, every 5 minutes or so. This changes the air, but doesn't doesn't drop the temps too much ( floating around 25.5-26.5c). Am I better off with the higher temps and less air exchange, or lower temps and more air exchange (at least in veg). ?


Hello from another Canuck. If you are doing an indoor grow during that kind of cold winter weather, you are likely going to need humidification to stay within reasonable VPD range. In my current 4x4, I need full time humidification inside the growdrobe to keep it from being much too dry, and it is only just barely freezing outside at the moment. Without the humidifier, I could not prevent RH from going way too low, likely into the mid 30% range, and it would be far worse at colder outdoor temps. Also, you mention the issue of when to start fertigating. With Coco, you need to do it from the beginning, no question. Coco is pretty much inert, there is bugger all in it for nutrients unless you put them there.

Good luck with the grow mate, I love your irrigation setup. My choice of autopots may have been different had I known what a pain in the ass nute buildup can be with the subirrigated design. Doing the job with automated top watering with runoff may be a preferable way to grow with salt nutes, in my slightly revised opinion.

With living soil however, autopots may be perfect. My current grow may sort this for me. :biggrin:
 
Higher temps allow for higher humidity because the air can hold more moisture. One of the big reasons why i use a fan is to control odor and less for climate control.
 
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Up to 0.8mls/liter this week. EC is 461.
Some slight burning on the far one, but doesn't seem to be worse on the new growth? Both got some pretty big fan leaves going on as well.
 
Those look like they will grow a lot. How much are you watering them a day?

The burned spots could be to a dry pocket.


2x a day since the leaves reached the edge of the pot. I know the Remo reps and FAQ on their web page says to water every 3rd-4th fertigation event with coco but I've yet to try that. Would I be better off ph'ing tap water instead of RO for that?
 
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Final week of veg hopefully. Raised strength slightly to 0.9mls/liter (still less than half of what Remo recommends). EC: 546

Increased light strength to ~26000lux (~378ppfd)

Overall the plants are looking pretty good. Ive been more aggressive with the LST on the front one. Ill try and get some done on the back one this weekend.
 
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