Is something wrong? Some people said they don't look right.

[Saven]

You're over thinking it.. Trust your gut.. You posted in the infirmary because you felt like something was wrong.. And you are correct, something is wrong.. So anyone saying your plant looks fine obviously doesn't know how to read a plant. My advice is usually the same to everyone in the infirmary.. Learn how your nutrient line works... Learn how/when plants use nutrients.. Learn to read the plant. It has all the answers.. Not us.. It tells you exactly what's going on and it never lies.. Look at the pics you posted on page 1... The ONLY thing that causes tip burn/yellowing is overfeeding.. Nothing else causes that. Once over feeding starts, multiple issues arise because too much of one single nutrient can lock out several other nutrients making them unavailable to the plant. It's not "Proph" that's saying this.. It's your plant... Proph is just relaying the message, lol. Trust the plant.. If you don't believe me, look again at your pics.. Google over feeding and nutrient lock out.. Google over watering in coco.. Check out the "dialing in mega crop for autos" thread..

My honest opinion is that your plant is having the same issues as 75% of the mega crop fed plants I see right before flower. Overfeeding.. Then once flower hits, they increase the feeds as the directions say, and then it only gets worse. Do I think 1.4 ec is too high? Yup... But forget about me, lol.. What does the "plant" think? Those yellow tips say yup, the plant thinks it's to high as well.. Again, I think your issue is with the feed mix like Man-O suggested. Members here have spent years trying to dial in mega crop and the different versions of it. Man-O green is one of the few that has found a system using mega crop that works for him and doesn't fry his plants. Hopefully he can drop a suggested change to the mix..

Well worded. I already dumped the res and now EC is closer to .6-.7. Also I was quoting you by name because someone else got mad at me for referring to them as someone instead of their username. Meant no disrespect.

 

[Proph]

Well worded. I already dumped the res and now EC is closer to .6-.7. Also I was quoting you by name because someone else got mad at me for referring to them as someone instead of their username. Meant no disrespect.

Haha.. No worries bro. I only said that because most growers take the word from the infirmary as gold.. The issue is that, some people are stating their feelings or opinions. I always go strictly by the plant, so it's never my personal opinion or thought, unless asked for it, lol. The general feed rule with autos is to start at 1/4th strength and increase "as needed" ( not every week just to do it). When I used MC or any other nutrient line, my ppms/ ec never got higher than 600/1.2.. And it only got that high "as needed", which was rare, and during the last week or two of flower.. Veg was always 300-400 unless that plant showed signs that it wanted more. It's super easy to add more of something if/when it's needed. It's very hard to properly remove an excess of something if too much has been added. So less is always safer and easier. Just watch the leaves closely for the next few days.. Actually, get into the habit of checking leaves regularly.. (I went back and looked at your journal.. The first time I noticed nute burn/tip burn is in the update from Dec. 6th.. It was evident on new growth by dec.17th) Just find a few leaves with no tip burn/yellowing/spotting and make sure they stay that way. If the start to change, we need to address it..

Three keys to always remember when seeing changes in the leaves... Deficiencies or issues with mobile nutrients start at the bottom (older leaves) and it spreads upwards. Deficiencies or issues with immobile nutrients start with the upper leaves (newer growth).. Yellow or burnt leave tips are only caused by overfeeding. Using those three things as your base will help you eliminate certain issues from the equation.

 

[Saven]

Haha.. No worries bro. I only said that because most growers take the word from the infirmary as gold.. The issue is that, some people are stating their feelings or opinions. I always go strictly by the plant, so it's never my personal opinion or thought, unless asked for it, lol. The general feed rule with autos is to start at 1/4th strength and increase "as needed" ( not every week just to do it). When I used MC or any other nutrient line, my ppms/ ec never got higher than 600/1.2.. And it only got that high "as needed", which was rare, and during the last week or two of flower.. Veg was always 300-400 unless that plant showed signs that it wanted more. It's super easy to add more of something if/when it's needed. It's very hard to properly remove an excess of something if too much has been added. So less is always safer and easier. Just watch the leaves closely for the next few days.. Actually, get into the habit of checking leaves regularly.. (I went back and looked at your journal.. The first time I noticed nute burn/tip burn is in the update from Dec. 6th.. It was evident on new growth by dec.17th) Just find a few leaves with no tip burn/yellowing/spotting and make sure they stay that way. If the start to change, we need to address it..

Three keys to always remember when seeing changes in the leaves... Deficiencies or issues with mobile nutrients start at the bottom (older leaves) and it spreads upwards. Deficiencies or issues with immobile nutrients start with the upper leaves (newer growth).. Yellow or burnt leave tips are only caused by overfeeding. Using those three things as your base will help you eliminate certain issues from the equation.

A lot of good information in this post. I'll definitely need to remember your three keys, that was very helpful. I definitely needed to make a change and I'm glad I did thanks to in part you. Reasoning is more important than the answer and you laid it out perfectly for me.

 

[Proph]

A lot of good information in this post. I'll definitely need to remember your three keys, that was very helpful. I definitely needed to make a change and I'm glad I did thanks to in part you. Reasoning is more important than the answer and you laid it out perfectly for me.

Glad to help.. Here are a few charts for your reference!

 

[Smoking Frog]

Peanut gallery question.
What are mobile and immobile nutrients?

 

[Saven]

Peanut gallery question.
What are mobile and immobile nutrients?

The post above yours has the answers. Hint: 2nd image he posted.

 

[Proph]

Peanut gallery question.
What are mobile and immobile nutrients?

Mobile nutrients are nutrients that can move within the plant. So if part of the plant needs more nitrogen, it can move some nitrogen from the lower leaves to where it's needed. Immobile nutrients cannot move within the plant. So if a part of the plant needs calcium, it cannot move calcium from other leaves to where it's needed.

If immobile nutrients are locked out, the issue is commonly addressed with a foliar spray (Because the nutrients can't move from place to place). The foliar will add immobile nutrients directly where they are needed and the plant will aboard the nutrients through the leaves. That's a temporary fix, and works well until the true issue can be found and resolved. That said, all of this usually comes into play when there is an excess of nutrients in the medium. If the plant can't access/use the nutrients in the medium, it will start using the nutrients stored in its leaves. The issues will start to look exactly like deficiencies.. This is when most people say something like "looks like a cal/mag deficiency", and start adding more of it into the medium.. When in reality it's all due to a nutrient lock out caused by an excess of something. It's a delicate balance for sure.

 

[MI_sterGreen]

Mobile nutrients are nutrients that can move within the plant. So if part of the plant needs more nitrogen, it can move some nitrogen from the lower leaves to where it's needed. Immobile nutrients cannot move within the plant. So if a part of the plant needs calcium, it cannot move calcium from other leaves to where it's needed.

If immobile nutrients are locked out, the issue is commonly addressed with a foliar spray (Because the nutrients can't move from place to place). The foliar will add immobile nutrients directly where they are needed and the plant will aboard the nutrients through the leaves. That's a temporary fix, and works well until the true issue can be found and resolved. That said, all of this usually comes into play when there is an excess of nutrients in the medium. If the plant can't access/use the nutrients in the medium, it will start using the nutrients stored in its leaves. The issues will start to look exactly like deficiencies.. This is when most people say something like "looks like a cal/mag deficiency", and start adding more of it into the medium.. When in reality it's all due to a nutrient lock out caused by an excess of something. It's a delicate balance for sure.

Great explanation of deficiency doesn't means add more... especially when it comes to calcium and magnesium