Ionic Silver VS Colloidal Silver

Thanks for the added info JM. Much appreciated. More and more I'm thinking I have some wonky genetics atm. Hopefully when/if my latest from Herbie's and True North come in, I'll have something better to work with. My guess is that both the clear and amber version of homebrewed CS will work as long as you have a stable plant to work with. My HBD was iffy as 4 of 5 couldn't make it past seedling and the Black JH never auto'd then I successfully cloned it, one of those auto'd the other barely went to fflower in 12/12. At least Mom finally flowered and might give me something good here in a few weeks.
I am going to try again when the new chartered genes hit my mailbox.
 
I thought this would be a good post as it is the culmination of a couple days hardcore digging into CS.

There is a difference between ionic and colloidal silver and ionic may or may not reverse your plant. What I found out is there can be two results when running CS at home:

Ionic Silver: end result is clear, a laser pointer shining through it results in a glittery, sparkly, non solid beam. This may or may not (it did NOT work for me) reverse your plant.

Colloidal Silver: end result is cloudy and amber in color, darker is stronger, a TDS meter will only read so much then will cut off usually around 20 ppm. A laser pointer shining through it looks solid, like a light saber, without glittery sparkles. More of a creamy look to the laser beam.

I've only just succeeded in running the latter. I am hoping this will be successful in reversing my plant as the former was not. The ionic was only successful in stunting my plant and burning it to all hell. It ended up crispy, brittle and the branches were easily broken off.
I will report on how this amber fluid works on my plants.
Hopefully this will save you some time, trials and tribulations.
Please see photos for the difference between the two different products.

There's an in depth thread here on CS, and what your stating is contrary to that thread. where did you get the idea that the dark fluid was what you want? Not according to what's been posted here, so a link to your source would be appreciated. Epic genetics thread on CS reversal states the exact opposite of what your saying, and he has years of experience and positive results backing up his thread..
 
Thanks Pop, I've read that thread and others, that are often linked to(including the original version written and attributed by Epic Genetics to a person called Cabron at another forum), head to toe a couple times or more now. It is what I based my first attempts at reversal on. It was not successful for me.

There is so much conflicting info about CS its kind of hard to dig through it all without your eyes crossing. Would you prefer I preface my post with; "In my experience"? as I have reported what has actually happened in my recent fight with my godawful defiant plants trying to reverse them. I don't believe I definitively stated anything other than there are two possible outcomes of running a CS batch. One being clear and has a sparkly laser light. The other being amber and having a solid "creamy" light result when shining a laser light through it. I have read and believe these are two different things, Ionic and colloidal silver. While both may work in reversing a plant, one has failed in my attempts. The same solution may be successful in a different plant.

Having tried and failed using the clear version of the end product (which I am referring to as ionic) I was excited when my CS run produced something different and resembled what was being called true "colloidal" silver on various health and human consumption sites. Excited to try something different I found the longer I cooked this batch the more PPM I read on my TDS meter, not that it is accurate but it is relative in that, the stronger a solution is, the higher PPM it will read (and in my last run and cited in several other articles, the darker amber it will become). Yes, if using a dark solution is successful then it will be contradictory to the "definitive" CS post, it will also have been successful, which is the entire point of the exercise.
I want to point out that this is different than another "darkly" colored result that can look black or grey-black which are, I think everyone agrees, bad and something has gone wrong.

I can re-look up all the sites I read but I don't think it would be worth the trouble as I don't think many folks would take the time just to re-read what I wrote and you kindly quoted. If not here somewhere I think I posted most of the info I found was geared toward human consumption. The main point of this was to differentiate between the ionic and colloidal silver as referred to in some of the longer articles and not mentioned in the Cabron post.

As I was not seeing results I mentioned the use of the clear version of "CS" failed for me. After my post and more reading, I now am thinking the genetics I am working with are wonky. I'm coming to the conclusion that both the clear and amber versions of what we are calling ionic and colloidal silver will probably work in reversing a cannabis plant, if, and this is a big if, the plant is stable enough for the switch.

There is probably a large window of opportunity to successfully reverse a plant, using clear, amber, sparkly, milky, 15ppm, 50ppm, fresh, months old, etc. I read that someone used sterling silver and it worked. My hypothesis now, is that it largely depends on the stability of the strain to have success and achieve pollen. 4 of 5 of my HBD beans didn't make it past seedling and the Black JH auto never auto'd but a clone of her finally did. These are the genes I have been working with which I am now attributing my failure to.

Other folks, and I have been asking and bugging people here at AFN, have easily produced pollen from homemade "CS" made a myriad of different ways. This is what made me start to look at my plants as being the problem. I heard all kinds of different results of using a range of different equipment, taking as little as a week and a half to turn a plant. Some folks had it take much longer but eventually it worked. I am thinking the most important variable has to be the genetics of the strain.

I'm glad the method in the post called "definitive" works for you Pop, it didn't work on my current stable so I looked into and found some additional information. I figured I'd share what I found, my experience and my thoughts on the subject. Some of that may differ from what has been posted previously or even go against what has worked for you personally. I don't think that makes it wrong to post. Especially if it eventually leads to me getting some freakin' pollen from these bitches!
 
Thanks Pop, I've read that thread and others, that are often linked to(including the original version written and attributed by Epic Genetics to a person called Cabron at another forum), head to toe a couple times or more now. It is what I based my first attempts at reversal on. It was not successful for me.

There is so much conflicting info about CS its kind of hard to dig through it all without your eyes crossing. Would you prefer I preface my post with; "In my experience"? as I have reported what has actually happened in my recent fight with my godawful defiant plants trying to reverse them. I don't believe I definitively stated anything other than there are two possible outcomes of running a CS batch. One being clear and has a sparkly laser light. The other being amber and having a solid "creamy" light result when shining a laser light through it. I have read and believe these are two different things, Ionic and colloidal silver. While both may work in reversing a plant, one has failed in my attempts. The same solution may be successful in a different plant.

Having tried and failed using the clear version of the end product (which I am referring to as ionic) I was excited when my CS run produced something different and resembled what was being called true "colloidal" silver on various health and human consumption sites. Excited to try something different I found the longer I cooked this batch the more PPM I read on my TDS meter, not that it is accurate but it is relative in that, the stronger a solution is, the higher PPM it will read (and in my last run and cited in several other articles, the darker amber it will become). Yes, if using a dark solution is successful then it will be contradictory to the "definitive" CS post, it will also have been successful, which is the entire point of the exercise.
I want to point out that this is different than another "darkly" colored result that can look black or grey-black which are, I think everyone agrees, bad and something has gone wrong.

I can re-look up all the sites I read but I don't think it would be worth the trouble as I don't think many folks would take the time just to re-read what I wrote and you kindly quoted. If not here somewhere I think I posted most of the info I found was geared toward human consumption. The main point of this was to differentiate between the ionic and colloidal silver as referred to in some of the longer articles and not mentioned in the Cabron post.

As I was not seeing results I mentioned the use of the clear version of "CS" failed for me. After my post and more reading, I now am thinking the genetics I am working with are wonky. I'm coming to the conclusion that both the clear and amber versions of what we are calling ionic and colloidal silver will probably work in reversing a cannabis plant, if, and this is a big if, the plant is stable enough for the switch.

There is probably a large window of opportunity to successfully reverse a plant, using clear, amber, sparkly, milky, 15ppm, 50ppm, fresh, months old, etc. I read that someone used sterling silver and it worked. My hypothesis now, is that it largely depends on the stability of the strain to have success and achieve pollen. 4 of 5 of my HBD beans didn't make it past seedling and the Black JH auto never auto'd but a clone of her finally did. These are the genes I have been working with which I am now attributing my failure to.

Other folks, and I have been asking and bugging people here at AFN, have easily produced pollen from homemade "CS" made a myriad of different ways. This is what made me start to look at my plants as being the problem. I heard all kinds of different results of using a range of different equipment, taking as little as a week and a half to turn a plant. Some folks had it take much longer but eventually it worked. I am thinking the most important variable has to be the genetics of the strain.

I'm glad the method in the post called "definitive" works for you Pop, it didn't work on my current stable so I looked into and found some additional information. I figured I'd share what I found, my experience and my thoughts on the subject. Some of that may differ from what has been posted previously or even go against what has worked for you personally. I don't think that makes it wrong to post. Especially if it eventually leads to me getting some freakin' pollen from these bitches!

You may be right, in fact it may still be a combo if things. Although there is only anecdotal evidence, it does seem that using lower DC voltage makes a better CS spray of reversing. Its attributed to smaller siler particles and maybe that is it, or something else altogether. Maybe it alters the ratio of ionic to colloidal particles, although I'm not sure how much of that is phony science spouted by companies wanting to sell to " colloidal silver". The bottom line is it does work. Maybe some strains won't reverse, maybe its another factor. I know timing is very important also.
 
JM, much thanks for the additional info in my seemingly eternal search for pollen. I have like 30 some beans that have been in the mail, are in the mail, possibly maybe hopefully some are still on the way. When/if these arrive I hope to try reversing a strain that is more stable.
I have saved, in dark places, both versions of the CS I've brewed at varying strengths. I will have more results and more to report after trying them on new genes.
I have to look up when exactly I began spraying these 2 plants but I'm thinking the HBD is well over a normal lifespan of an auto and the Black JH clone (of a supposed auto) is much older than it should be as well. I am still hopeful though they might produce some pollen, I'm still spraying them. Not sure I would use the pollen if I get any, maybe on a branch or two of Jacky if she has life time enough left to cook the beans to term. Chances are Clone 2 that is still in veg and pre-flowering would be a better host to said pollen, we shall see.
 
Holy induced puberty Batman, I think I have balls. Only they don't look like balls. I have to go back and get all of the dates, I'll do that on my main reversal thread but I'm pretty sure HBD is showing signs of male parts. Either that or it has somehow already pollinated itself. I guess this is a possibility as she/he has been alive for much longer than usual, I have to check this. I found extensive pictures online and my HBD is finally resembling something that might eventually drop some pollen. WooHoo!
 
I think she pollinated herself. what she's looking like is maybe she's cookin' some beans on her own and skipped the whole collect the pollen phase.
 
Hooray Herbies! Got a package through to me! Best Seedbank ever! Got me Dark Devils and Berry Bombs. Going to brew up some fresh CS and give it a go. Going to try the stronger PPM sprayed less often. Probably, going to think on it and read some more threads before another attempt. As I have 3 each I may grow 1 out each to be certain I likey.
 
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