New Grower Intro and questions on nutrients and production

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Hello !!I have a couple of important questions that I hope can be answered here but first some background. I’ve been growing since the late 60’s (with a 25 year break till now). I did outside until the 70’s and went inside with 1000wt MH bulbs. In the early 80’s I saw an article in HT mag about cloning in Holland it, Fascinated me. In those days, if you wanted answers, your wrote letters. Having restored old English motorcycles for years, this was no problem for me. Pen pals were fun. I had the perfect areas to do this in my basement with 2 separate rooms so even though it was 110 degrees outside where we moved to at the time, we had a cool environment underground. I had collected the very best seeds from my very best grower friends mostly Indicia hybrids and even some true Afghanistan strains. I used dirt (worm castings, potting soil, and MR) for the mother plants. Forced flowered to weed out the males and kept 3 prime. One was pure Afghanistan (almost unsmokeable) one hybrid Indica mostly and one that appeared to be mostly sativa These were kept under a 1000wt MH. Cloning was a bitch to learn but soon I could get 2 leaf cuttings to root on my rooting table with 5000K fluorescents Duro lights. The other room had a 4x8 flow table, c02, 2 1000wt MH and one 1000 wt HPS on movers. The water running back into the reservoir aerated the water. I used root tone to clone and only two different nutrients to my tank (plus keeping an eye on the PH). I only flushed the tank once during the cycle (10 weeks) and when done. The first grow only did 2lbs the next 2 did 3+lbs. 3 crops in a little over 8 months off a 4x8 table. 130 plants (or were there really only 3?) that looked like your forearm, not bushes, Except the first grow that I cloned cuttings that had several leaves instead of just 2.

My x-wife still says that we have never before or since smoked better MJ then what we grew 28 years ago. Seymour from this group has convinced me that the Auto can work without the duel rooms and having to wait until the mothers get old enough to clone. After a few hundred hours of research figured I should follow a system that has been proven to work just like I did back then. I simply followed my mentors from Holland suggestions and had huge success. I am experimenting with lighting and bucket aeroponics and bucket deep water. I’m adding good UVB to some of the plants to see if it will actually make a difference in laboratory testing. I design UVB lights and well understand lighting spectrums. We are using a 300wt proto type LED that according to spectral analysis is superior to most LED now available for one side and a multi 1000wt MH/HPS bulb on the other. Both with movers. C02, carbon filters, air conditioned in a 8x10x8 high room.

Now, my questions; why so many different very expensive nutrients to grow these days? Isn’t there a simple effective 2 part system? And can I expect to rival my cloning experience with Auto? I am using Seymours last 2 grows with Think Different and Star Ryder (only the Ryder comes from Sagarmatha instead of from DP). I have some Ruderalis Indica regular auto hoping to get a male to fertilize.

Sorry for the long ramble J
 
With the explosion of auto growing and knew lighting systems indoor growing is becoming more and more popular all the nutrient makers are getting on the band wagon.Check out the fert and soil section under forums and that will help you.:smokebuds:
 
Welcome to the forum. With your experience and background you should do fine once you learn the little nuances of growing autos.

Autos generally do not need as much supplemental nutrients as photo plants, especially if they are in a rich soil mix. Don't know how much attention you paid to soil pH back in the day, but it's very important with autos. Given their short life cycle, should any problems pop up, you don't have the time you have with photos to get it corrected. So starting with, and maintaining proper pH is a must. I started using the Advanced Nutrients pH Perfect line awhile back and am very pleased with the results. As long as you have a water source low in ppm, below 125, they automatically adjust the pH to the proper level. Saves a lot of time spend capturing and checking run off. If you prefer to stay organic, take a look at the General Organics Biothrive line. Besides good veg and flowering nutes, you may want to also keep some cal/mag solution and maybe a bud booster high in P and K on hand. Some auto strains often exhibit cal/mag deficiencies in flowering, as well as a lack of P.
 
Hey there Muddy. Thanks for replying. I thought I might get a few more replies about the questions concerning additives and production. I really appreciate the incite on the cal/mag possibility of deficiency. I ordered the Gh Flora Duo when I got the Bucket System aero but they are syns and not organic and I really didn’t like the ratios. Once I got them, and have their recommendations for mixing, maybe they are not so bad after all but I did some research on your forum and came across the BMO organic line and like what I read and the people I called about this line. Very economical and even though it comes with their own rooting support, I did go with the Rhizotonic. I have 12 bucket aero system but I’m adding 5 DW systems (very easy to build) and I’m going to add tanked oxygen (like the c02 system) to the air feed on a few DW pails to compare plant responses. I wanted to do that “back in the day” but never got around to it. I realize that oxygen can burn tissue if not carful so I don’t want to take a chance on the whole crop. All the holding tanks are outside the growing room to avoid heat and c02 contamination to the air pumps.

I’m just waiting on my light movers to complete the room (so much for same day shipping). When I’m ready, where should I post this and the pictures to let the friends follow the grow? I would like to know what Seymour thinks of this.

OH, and BTW, yes, we always did watch our PH levels. That aspect is older then I am. And remember that with cloning, you still have the same short time cycles. Get it right to start with or its all over for the babies. The mother donor plants can be manipulated. Mine were about 13 months old before the use ended.

Thanks again for your time!!
 
Hay man welcome to your new second home,looking forward to learning some of your skillz. I'm really interested in your LED and especially the "spectral analysis" can u tell me why the spectrum is better??
 
Hi J, we have yet to see if i still have "skills". No doubt, i once did. I'm wandering way out of my comfort zone with this grow. I'll be happy to fill you in on spectrums but most of the info i will just help you learn to research it yourself as the info gets redundent otherwise and time consuming. Gotta run for now to complete the room and actualy make some money to support this project :)
 
You may want to post your nute questions in the Fertilizer and Soil forum. I'm sure you'll get more responses there. This forum is more for newbie growers and even though you are new to autos, you're not technically a new grower. We also have a new Organics forum, so you might want to check that as well. Anything I can help with, just give a shout.
 
Hay man welcome to your new second home,looking forward to learning some of your skillz. I'm really interested in your LED and especially the "spectral analysis" can u tell me why the spectrum is better??

Hi J, I joined the lighting group. soon as i have some time to see what has already been studied, I'll add my comments there so as not to be redundent to good info already floating around the forum. "spectral analysis" simply means that the lighting has been put under a laboratory grade spectrometer. You would be surprised how many MH spectrums now over shadow HPS (overlay) making the use of HPS less productive then just using a good MH bulb. LED concentrates in specific nm ranges. All light or wave lengths (EMS) , visible and invisible (to the human eye) can be mapped by this method. I live for this stuff :)
 
Hi J, I joined the lighting group. soon as i have some time to see what has already been studied, I'll add my comments there so as not to be redundent to good info already floating around the forum. "spectral analysis" simply means that the lighting has been put under a laboratory grade spectrometer. You would be surprised how many MH spectrums now over shadow HPS (overlay) making the use of HPS less productive then just using a good MH bulb. LED concentrates in specific nm ranges. All light or wave lengths (EMS) , visible and invisible (to the human eye) can be mapped by this method. I live for this stuff :)

Yeah I know about LED spectrums I was just interested in what makes your prototypes spectrum superior to most other LED lights?
 
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