Indoor Hydro Tips

Yea that's the same meter I've got. That'll do ya good for your TDS.
 
Yea i just placed that order for that meter and rockwool. I need to find me a good book or website bc i dont know anything about feeding or ppm or when to change water. I dont wanna waste any of my good seeds so i might test a couple bag seeds to see if i can get them growing. Im thinking of using distilled water at 5.5ph. Not sure od i should add nutes or how much to add off the start.

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Yea, well I can certainly help you learn my mistakes without having to make them yourself. I would definitely test out the system on some bag seed first to get the feel for it before going in on your good stuff. Just remember that autos want around half - 3/4 strength nutes compared to photoperiod plants. So just treat 'em light on the nutes. You can always up the feed, but taking it out... not so easy. ;) You'll need some nutes in the beginning for sure, 1/4 strength. As I said, I use clonex to build a nice root structure. This past time I did it too hot (900+ ppm) without realizing and that was a mistake you can learn from. Keep 'em around 200-300ppm (your meter will be .5 conversion) for the first 10 days or so, then start bringing it up to 500ppm by around week 4.
 
That ppm is measured from the res. ? Do i ever dump the water and add new? Keep the ph to 5.5 right?

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Hey akito,
There are several ways to go around that, but usually, you change the whole rez about each week(4-10 days is what people use), and add water every 2 days (back to ur original level) to keep the EC constant . You shouldnt need to add nutes/additive more than once a week at first, but during flower, you might need to add nutes with almost everytime you "top" your rez with water, if you EC is a bit lower than you'd like after you have topped your rez back.
As long as you have a pH and EC pen, and keep those two values in check, you are gonna be fine :)
Also, I would recommend you get nutes that are made for recirculating hydro (not run-to-drain/waste) as the composition is made so that the pH stablizes after the starts feeding off the nute mix and returns your water back to the rez with a changed composition. Its not just about pH I think..
Also.. enzyme and bacterial products will help keep a cleaner rez overall..
 
thanks for the tip..
i tried DWC,but had ph stability
problems, i used hydrotron,and rockwool
both rinsed and soaked in ph d ro water
and i used Advanced nutes Sensi grow a+b
and Connisseur for flowering.
i would check ph in the res and adjust to 5.5
then 24 hours later it was over 7.0....
i guess high res temps and helped too.
 
I'd check out Canna Aqua. No problems here with pH (but I use drip/recirculate hydroton not dwc), tho I suspect the heavy bubbling in DWC will inevitably evaporate P so you will need to compensate with some ph- bloom daily... Unlike AN's bottle which has chemical buffers, aqua works with the roots so they set the pH... but even then, I still dunno if the P evaporation problem can be avoided..
Also, I'd check out your initial source water EC and how much calcium is in there. If its too low it might be the reason why your water has low pH buffering strength..

Cheers :]
 
Where did you hear that phosphorus will evaporate in oxygenated water?
 
With the water farm do i run the pump 24 hours

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