New Grower Hugo's Backyard!

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I also agree with Ghabi MrNice :) I think I used the PK formula a little too early, so now she's on water diet for a few days until I see improvement and then I'll restart pH perfect AN and humics. I'll save the PK formula for later. Fingers crossed guys and thanks!

I've chopped down my aBB and the MR :) 300g of buds, stems and trims. It will probably give between 100 and 150g of dried goods.

View attachment 120632

:thumbs:

Awesome news, Hugo. One delightful stage to the next, the blessed life of a canna grower.. :dance2:

Care to share any pics, initial smoke report (you know you sampled it already ;) ), anything orgasmic for that matter..?
 
Egg shell will def take longer to act. Can't wait to read your notes on the wood ash.

Don't know that I have that much time, first (next) chop is just over two weeks away. I will try anyway so I can find out what's going on b4 the next season. Will have to do some reading up on the wood ash approach. Wish I had access to some dolomite lime in a more readily available form than the coarse, stone-like one (long term action) I can get around here (which I'm using anyway in my soil mix).
 
what i menat was your soil will catch up with your water i would't jack up my water to get my soil to go up ....... after two or three watering i bet your soil evens out to your phd water........and a good thing to do is moisten your soil well with phd and airated water real well, im not sure but i think coffee grounds might bring your ph up also.....

I hope that turns out to be the case. I've been watering with tap water at 7 for a long time, soil has remained (according to the probe, at least) at the 4-5 level. I know it's weird, that's why I posted it up for collective wisdom.

BTW, I think coffee grounds are to induce acid, thus making PH lower. I use it on my acid-loving plants like gardenia, bird of paradise, and such. I may be wrong, but I'm worried someone might act on that statement to their detriment. Maybe someone who knows better than me can verify..?!

Thank you, again, sir. Peace.

:peace:
 
no your right i was thinking ash good call
 
Wood Ash in the Garden


Released 16 November 2000
by B. Rosie Lerner, Extension Consumer Horticulture Specialist


Wood stoves and fireplaces are great for warming gardeners' chilly hands and feet, but what are we to do with the resulting ashes? Many gardening books advise throwing these ashes in the garden.

Wood ash does have fertilizer value, the amount varying somewhat with the species of wood being used. Generally, wood ash contains less than 10 percent potash, 1 percent phosphate and trace amounts of micro-nutrients such as iron, manganese, boron, copper and zinc. Trace amounts of heavy metals such as lead, cadmium, nickel and chromium also may be present. Wood ash does not contain nitrogen.

The largest component of wood ash (about 25 percent) is calcium carbonate, a common liming material that increases soil alkalinity. Wood ash has a very fine particle size, so it reacts rapidly and completely in the soil. Although small amounts of nutrients are applied with wood ash, the main effect is that of a liming agent.

Increasing the alkalinity of the soil does affect plant nutrition. Nutrients are most readily available to plants when the soil is slightly acidic. As soil alkalinity increases and the pH rises above 7.0, nutrients such as phosphorus, iron, boron, manganese, copper, zinc and potassium become chemically tied to the soil and less available for plant use.

Applying small amounts of wood ash to most soils will not adversely affect your garden crops, and the ash does help replenish some nutrients. But because wood ash increases soil pH, adding large amounts can do more harm than good. Keep in mind that wood ash that has been exposed to the weather, particularly rainfall, has lost a lot of its potency, including nutrients.

Specific recommendations for the use of wood ash in the garden are difficult to make because soil composition and reaction varies from garden to garden. Acidic soils (pH less than 5.5) will likely be improved by wood ash addition. Soils that are slightly acidic (pH 6.0 to 6.5) should not be harmed by the application of 20 pounds per 100 square feet annually, if the ash is worked into the soil about 6 inches or so. However, if your soil is neutral or alkaline (pH 7.0 or greater), find another way to dispose of wood ash. If you don't know your soil's acidity or alkalinity level, have it tested for pH.

Crop tolerance to alkaline soil also should be considered. Some plants, such as asparagus and juniper, are more tolerant of slightly alkaline conditions than "acid-loving" plants, such as potatoes, rhododendrons and blueberries. Wood ash should never be used on acid-loving plants.
 
Sounds as though Wood Ash is not only a great liming agent, but a great source of many of the micro-nutes and trace elements beneficial to plant growth. With what looks like a typically 0-1-3 NPK ratio, maybe a good addition to a bloom regiment...!? I am about to begin a test of Wood Ash use for its liming potential, and will report on its impact on PH in pots. This is a highly alkaline product, so its use must be with great caution and after further reading (for me).

Some useful info on the use of Wood Ash in the garden.

http://hubcap.clemson.edu/~blpprt/bestwoodash.html
http://www.hort.uconn.edu/ipm/homegrnd/htms/woodshes.htm
http://www1.agric.gov.ab.ca/$department/deptdocs.nsf/all/agdex3435
http://apps.rhs.org.uk/advicesearch/Profile.aspx?pid=621
http://www.ehow.com/video_7369124_change-ph-potting-soil.html
 
you DA bud.............MAN
 
So guys, it's been about three months since the last Amsterdam visit, and I'm itching. Following in Master Hugo's footsteps, I plan on visiting for a few days next week and need advice from those in the Ams scene (Noods, maybe..?).

The primary purpose for the visit (as always) is the acquisition of seeds for my personal pleasure. I would like to get some of AF seeds that you would recommend, from breeders like Lowlife, Joint Doctor, Short Stuff, Serious, Sagramantha, etc. I am only familiar with the traditional seed banks like Sensi, Paradise, DP, FD, etc. I know Hugo posted a similar inquiry prior to his last trip, but I'm hoping for specific answers. Not interested in the traditional big names, I will visit these anyway for photo seeds, mainly Sensi. Also, not interested in online banks, I want to walk into a shop in Amsterdam and get my hands on some serious AF seeds.. ;)

Where in Amasterdam should I go for the best AF seeds from innovative breeders?

What seeds would ya'll recommend I come back with?

No budgetary limits, and open to ALL suggestions.

Peace.
 
Isn't that a coincidence, I'm going to AMS this week. I've PM you with details :)
 
I still think jd stuff is top auto wise it just may suit my methods the best
you will find amsterdam seeds are overrated im not sure why you would mention sensi they seem overrated to me and have made no waves on the auto front
 
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