New Grower Hope She's Gentle. It's My First Time! - Think Different
- Thread starter ThaGreenBandit
- Start date
ThaGreenBandit
Student of Herbal Alchemy
I personally think she needs more Cal/Mag....these LEDs increase uptake dramatically....so big LED means regular regimen of Cal/Mag....my 2 cents.
I was considering bumping up to about 1.5 ml per liter, so that would take it up from 3 ml to 4.5, because I usually feed her about 3 liters. You think that would be sufficient?
So, are you saying to split up the dosage amounts so I can feed her more throughout the week? A little more here, a little less there? Sorry if I'm not comprehending, EOF. I'm doing the daddy daycare thing, so I'm kinda scatter brained right now
If the bottom leaves are yellowing and dying, would that extra bit of N be beneficial for them? Not doubting you at all, Medi, just a bit confused and trying to get things clarified.
Thanks guys. Much appreciated
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Doesn't look like N deficiency is the biggest issue to me. The rest of the leaves look nice and dark green, so it looks like (at least at some point in their life) they were getting lots of N. They're still probably getting enough.
Upper leaves going yellow, staying green inbetween the veins = interveinal chlorosis = iron deficiency most likely. Does your Cal / Mag have Iron in it? Can you get Plant Magic Magne-Cal+ where you are? Reason being why I'm saying is that I've been using it and it's been great for me, even with a bit extra N. Also TaNg is using it, so that just double clarifys for me. But him and I are using Advanced Nutrients, however I have seen some killer grows on Dutch Pro nutes too.
So help me out, so I don't have to read the whole thread. You said before
"I've I'm using the Dutch Pro line of nutrients that are specifically designed for autos, and to that I've been adding Botanicare CalMag at 1 ml per litre.
I've been checking, pretty much every day, for any signs of pests, but haven't seen anything. I check both the top side and the under side"
So give me a run down of what medium you are using, how much you've been feeding, what pH you've been running at. Tell me what lights you use etc. Or link me to a post that explains all this already, or just copy and paste it for me
I want to help you out but I need more information.
There's a deficiency / toxicity issue going on and unfortunately it's so far gone and so late into flowering theres nothing we can do now except identity what the problem is and put into remission by stopping whatever you're doing wrong. The plants won't bounce back or repair their leaves. But we can do damage limitation. You'll still get some nice (albeit smaller) buds at the end of this if we sort it out soon.
I really need information on your environment and also your feeding. Specific as possible.
Upper leaves going yellow, staying green inbetween the veins = interveinal chlorosis = iron deficiency most likely. Does your Cal / Mag have Iron in it? Can you get Plant Magic Magne-Cal+ where you are? Reason being why I'm saying is that I've been using it and it's been great for me, even with a bit extra N. Also TaNg is using it, so that just double clarifys for me. But him and I are using Advanced Nutrients, however I have seen some killer grows on Dutch Pro nutes too.
So help me out, so I don't have to read the whole thread. You said before
"I've I'm using the Dutch Pro line of nutrients that are specifically designed for autos, and to that I've been adding Botanicare CalMag at 1 ml per litre.
I've been checking, pretty much every day, for any signs of pests, but haven't seen anything. I check both the top side and the under side"
So give me a run down of what medium you are using, how much you've been feeding, what pH you've been running at. Tell me what lights you use etc. Or link me to a post that explains all this already, or just copy and paste it for me
I want to help you out but I need more information.
There's a deficiency / toxicity issue going on and unfortunately it's so far gone and so late into flowering theres nothing we can do now except identity what the problem is and put into remission by stopping whatever you're doing wrong. The plants won't bounce back or repair their leaves. But we can do damage limitation. You'll still get some nice (albeit smaller) buds at the end of this if we sort it out soon.
I really need information on your environment and also your feeding. Specific as possible.
A great product that contains CA, MG, and Iron without any N is unsulphured black strap molasses. You should be able to find it in nearly any town, it's cheap, and it also provides a lot of other benefits like carbs, a bunch of micro nutrients, and feeding any micro life in the soil. If you do pick some up I'd suggest 1 tbsp per gallon to start. You could switch to a three part watering. Watering 1 = feed, Watering 2= molasses, Watering 3=ph'd water.
ThaGreenBandit
Student of Herbal Alchemy
Doesn't look like N deficiency is the biggest issue to me. The rest of the leaves look nice and dark green, so it looks like (at least at some point in their life) they were getting lots of N. They're still probably getting enough.
Upper leaves going yellow, staying green inbetween the veins = interveinal chlorosis = iron deficiency most likely. Does your Cal / Mag have Iron in it? Can you get Plant Magic Magne-Cal+ where you are? Reason being why I'm saying is that I've been using it and it's been great for me, even with a bit extra N. Also TaNg is using it, so that just double clarifys for me. But him and I are using Advanced Nutrients, however I have seen some killer grows on Dutch Pro nutes too.
So help me out, so I don't have to read the whole thread. You said before
"I've I'm using the Dutch Pro line of nutrients that are specifically designed for autos, and to that I've been adding Botanicare CalMag at 1 ml per litre.
I've been checking, pretty much every day, for any signs of pests, but haven't seen anything. I check both the top side and the under side"
So give me a run down of what medium you are using, how much you've been feeding, what pH you've been running at. Tell me what lights you use etc. Or link me to a post that explains all this already, or just copy and paste it for me
I want to help you out but I need more information.
There's a deficiency / toxicity issue going on and unfortunately it's so far gone and so late into flowering theres nothing we can do now except identity what the problem is and put into remission by stopping whatever you're doing wrong. The plants won't bounce back or repair their leaves. But we can do damage limitation. You'll still get some nice (albeit smaller) buds at the end of this if we sort it out soon.
I really need information on your environment and also your feeding. Specific as possible.
I am using
OF soil, to which I added some dolomite lime, and some perlite. Unfortunately, I didn't notice I had grabbed mg perlite until after I had already planted my seed. My soil PH was hovering in between 6.6 - 6.8. On day 27, after constantly having high soil PH and high runoff PH, I added 1 TBS of aluminum sulfate to 5 liters of water, before watering, which immediately dropped the soil PH to 5.8. By this time, I had started getting the yellowing of the top leaves, so I also started treating her with a foliar spray of Bonide Liquid Iron, which also contains zinc (.50%), manganese (.25%), copper (.25%), boron (.02%), and magnesium (.50%). I continued this for 3 days until the upper leaves begin to look like they were getting their color back. I heard that too much iron will cause other issues, so I didn't want to cause yet another issue while trying to fix one.After adding the aluminum sulfate, my soil PH has been around 6.4, and I have been PHing the solution to 6.0 - 6.2, but the runoff has constantly been coming out high. 6.8 - 7.0, in fact.
I started her feeding regimen on day 22 with 2ml of both A&B, and 2ml of Multi Total, and 1ml of Take Root. 8days later, on day 30, fed her the same, minus the Multi Total, as the feeding schedule suggests. Also added 5 ml of CalMag (contains .1% chelated iron). A day later, I was informed that I was incorrectly using the schedule, and this could be the cause of the yellowing bottom leaves, due to N deficiency, so I bumped her up to 3 ml of A&B on her next feeding which was day 33. Again, I added CalMag, but this time only 3.5ml. On day 37, fed her again using then 3 ml of both A&B per liter, plus the 3.5ml total of CalMag.
As far as my lights go, I am using a Mars II 400w
If I missed anything, let me know and I'll make sure to providemtha info asap
When you say 3 part watering, do you mean I should water her 3 times per week, once feed, once with molasses, and once with straight PH'd water? I will grab some molasses this week
Okay well that sounds like your problem right there. (a bad start)
Generally if I have a bad start and it doesn't recover by the time I'm into flowering, then well... I kinda finish the grow, hope for the best and learn for next time.
I dunno how to sort your problem out at this stage. Especially as I'm unfamiliar with your medium and nutrients.
I only know how to grow in either
1) Canna Coco Professional Plus + Perlite (60/40 mix)
2) Plagron Light Mix with a touch added Perlite (especially because I grow in autopots)
I would highly suggest using one or the other above. Both very forgiving.
I'm not familiar with FoxFarms soil or Miracle Grow Perlite (except that it's got time release nutes in it.) Possibly the time release perlite is the root of your problem. After having fked up pH and then adding stuff and and making it go too low it's kind of a boomed situation from the get go?
I would flush the crap out of her 40 Litres of tap water and then give her something like 1-2ml per litre A&B and 1ml per litre root tonic and hope for the best.
In my opinion there's really not much else you can do, but hopefully someone else will chime in with better news.
Generally if I have a bad start and it doesn't recover by the time I'm into flowering, then well... I kinda finish the grow, hope for the best and learn for next time.
I dunno how to sort your problem out at this stage. Especially as I'm unfamiliar with your medium and nutrients.
I only know how to grow in either
1) Canna Coco Professional Plus + Perlite (60/40 mix)
2) Plagron Light Mix with a touch added Perlite (especially because I grow in autopots)
I would highly suggest using one or the other above. Both very forgiving.
I'm not familiar with FoxFarms soil or Miracle Grow Perlite (except that it's got time release nutes in it.) Possibly the time release perlite is the root of your problem. After having fked up pH and then adding stuff and and making it go too low it's kind of a boomed situation from the get go?
I would flush the crap out of her 40 Litres of tap water and then give her something like 1-2ml per litre A&B and 1ml per litre root tonic and hope for the best.
In my opinion there's really not much else you can do, but hopefully someone else will chime in with better news.
ThaGreenBandit
Student of Herbal Alchemy
I kinda figured that the mg perlite had a lot to do with it. Thanks for your help, Happy. I'm chalking this first grow up to being a learning experience, and will be much better educated for the next. I'm gonna see this one through to the end, and give the TD another go so I can see what she is really capable of when less problems occur. As far as the flush goes, are you suggesting I feed her right after the flush, or wait til the next feed to give her the light dose?
If you flush her a lot like with 40L or more 60L even - I would wait till that's dripped out then give her a lighter than usual feed and see how she reacts to it the next day.
Generally I would say you don't want to flush with plain water and leave it like that because then she'll most likely be deficient.
Flush her hard with plain water, wait till the water has stopped dripping out then give her about another 5L of half strength nutes.
Next day if she seems okay give her a day off being feed.
A day later if she's okay give her another feed at something between 1/2 strength and 3/4 strength nutes.
Basically when it comes to feeding nutrients you want to start low and slowly bit by bit bump it up. When she's getting nice dark leaves (like most of her leaves are in your photos) that's when you want to back it off just a little and hold it there. Only bump it up again if her leaves are lightening a tad.
The trick is start low and bump up slowly but continously until you notice that really dark green, then back off a small touch and carry on at that strength until you notice any change.
It's always best to slightly over feed than under feed in my opinion (emphasis on the word slightly). If you bump it up slowly and continously generally you'll only ever over feed slightly. Since it's slowly and steadily you can recognise it and stop and back off.
The main thing is getting used to the medium you are using and knowing how much and when to start feeding. Once you've got that inital when and how much sorted, then it's just a matter for slow and continous bumping up.
My coco for example I have to give it a hard core shot of Cal/Mag from the get go and regular half strength nutes. I then back off the cal/mag a bit and slowly bump up the base nutrients.
Generally I would say you don't want to flush with plain water and leave it like that because then she'll most likely be deficient.
Flush her hard with plain water, wait till the water has stopped dripping out then give her about another 5L of half strength nutes.
Next day if she seems okay give her a day off being feed.
A day later if she's okay give her another feed at something between 1/2 strength and 3/4 strength nutes.
Basically when it comes to feeding nutrients you want to start low and slowly bit by bit bump it up. When she's getting nice dark leaves (like most of her leaves are in your photos) that's when you want to back it off just a little and hold it there. Only bump it up again if her leaves are lightening a tad.
The trick is start low and bump up slowly but continously until you notice that really dark green, then back off a small touch and carry on at that strength until you notice any change.
It's always best to slightly over feed than under feed in my opinion (emphasis on the word slightly). If you bump it up slowly and continously generally you'll only ever over feed slightly. Since it's slowly and steadily you can recognise it and stop and back off.
The main thing is getting used to the medium you are using and knowing how much and when to start feeding. Once you've got that inital when and how much sorted, then it's just a matter for slow and continous bumping up.
My coco for example I have to give it a hard core shot of Cal/Mag from the get go and regular half strength nutes. I then back off the cal/mag a bit and slowly bump up the base nutrients.
ThaGreenBandit
Student of Herbal Alchemy
Thanks for the info happy. I will flush her out tomorrow. Can't do it tonight because I only have 5 gallons of water prepared, and need to set another 5 out overnight to let any chlorine evaporate.
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