New Grower Help please!!!!!! possible TMV

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Ok, this is my second grow Jock Horror under cfl. She is 19 days old, in FFOF. I have not added any nutes at all. A couple nights ago, I forgot to turn the heat back on when I went to bed, and the room temp was 61 degrees in the morning. I am not sure if this has anything to do with it. After some online reading, the only thing that I could find that sounded similar to the condition of my leaves was the tobacco mosaic virus. I really hope this is not the case...im not really sure if I should continue with this grow, as I can only feasible grow about 2 plants at a time....I would hate to waste my time on a plant that is destined to die. Any input?

p.s. I leave the fan the blows on the plant outside of the grow chamber, to save some space...I close the chamber and turn of the fan during lights out. Picture 004.jpgPicture 002.jpgPicture 003.jpg
 
Hey and Welcome!
TMV? anyplace you would attribute getting it from.
Don't know if you have looked here, but they have a great list of problems with photos Grow Weed Easy-Marijuana Symptoms
Peace and happy growing, hope you get past this. Here's some :karma Cloud: to help you out a bit.
 
Well, I came up with tmv, when I searched out one of the syptoms....the leaves have a very uneven green to them, in addition to the tips browning and turning down......I read about the uneven green @ Default Parallels Plesk Panel Page as stated this is only my second grow...maybe im being overly paranoid about it.
 
Dante :tiphat: Sorry to see the troubles, but good news is that is certainly not TMV... It looks like a nutrient deficiency, specifically Mg; the symptoms are pretty classic... It's an easy fix, and a very common problem... best solution is to get a dedicated Ca-Mg supplement, and apply to both soil and foliage; conc. varies by maker, but typically 1T/gal maybe a bit more; Foliar spraying is the fastest way to get nute's in there, soil will help and hold reserves... Another option is Epsom salts, at 1tsp/gal; lastly molasses, which has a fair amount of Mg, Ca, and K in it; many folks add this to reg. fert'ing because the soil microbes love it! try 1T/gal,...
...the symptoms are diagnostic; it's starts with the lower leaves, with yellowing and tips/edges browning out, but still has green veins... this pattern will move upward as it gets worse... Also, another product that will greatly increase the effectiveness of foliar spraying (of anything) is a water spreader, or wetting agent... this stuff takes the water surface tension out of the solution you're spraying, so that when it gets sprayed, the soln. sheets and coats, rather than beading up; basically, this means the more surface area covered, the more gets absorbed by the plant...
...let us know which you use, and we can fine tune your application, okay?
 
Ok...great information thank you Waira! I will have to order some ca-mag...in the meantime I do have epsom salts in the house. You mentioned foliar spraying for the ca-mag...do I foliar spray the epsom salts also, or is that strictly soil? also if it is foliar, that is something that is generally done before lights out or at the beginning of lights on?

BTW, I really did not think that it would be a nute deficiency this early. Last time using FFOF I added nutes too early and had a slight problem with nitrogen toxicity (although she is fine now...almost harvest time! see attached image) , so I was trying to hold out until around weeks 5 or 6

Anyways thank you again for the the help and I will keep you informed

Picture 001.jpg
 
:grin: ...yeah, epsom foliar at about 1 tsp/gal, with a good sprayer that can make a nice fine mist! ...get top and bottom of leaves, for max. coverage....well, it's best not to spray at lights out, to avoid fungal issues, and lights on at full blast can potentially burn,... I'd pull the plants out, douse them and let'm sit in the room and dry slowly for a while, then put them back in the lights,... if you see big droplets still at that time, flick them off to avoid that lensing burn effect... (water droplets can act like a magnifying lens, and concentrate the light enough to roast tissue under them!...)...
FFOF is generally too hot for starting seedlings,... so a milder starter mix is highly recommended, then use the FF as a finishing soil,...Different strains have different tolerances, but it's best not to gamble, as stunting can occur even if they don't burn!... this was likely a contributing factor to the previous N-burning,... Lots of ways to work with both soils in one pot, if you wish to avoid transplanting,...ask for details if you're interested....usually, you can start feeding at 1/4 strength by week two, if you're in a milder soil, and then gradually ramp it up from there... this is one of the tricky things about growing auto's, they're touchy when it comes to nute' conc.'s, and again, it varies with strain and grow media..
Now, Ca and Mg are both often needed in extra amounts, and so are the most common nute's to become deficient,..this is why they're combined together usually; nearly every grower I know has that supp' in there stock! General Organics makes a nice Ca-Mg supp', with no extra N in it- be careful, some companies put extra N in their formula, others don't, so read the label! I like the stuff that's in a fermented sugar base...it'll say so somewhere on the label, or ask the shop pro... Usually, a couple applications via foliar will see rapid improvement over the next several days, so get started ASAP... Oh, and get some of that wetting agent if you can, it makes a big difference, and it can be used with pretty much anything you want to spray...nute's, bug killers, supp's,...soil that's hard to moisten will suck it up instantly with wetting agent in the water! :thumbs:
That's a nice little plant there, mate,..Is that a JH too?
 
Might look into your PH,

Rough Calculation Guide:

Here's some good info on ph.....
If your runoff pH is higher than your starting pH, use this equation to determine your soil pH:*
Soil pH = Runoff pH + Difference

If your runoff pH is lower than your starting pH, us this equation:
Soil pH = Runoff pH - Difference.

For example, say your the starting pH of your solution before it goes in is 6.5 and the pH of your runoff is 7.0. The difference is +0.5, so using the above equation:
Soil pH = 7.0 + 0.5*
Soil pH = 7.5

If your starting pH is 6.5 and your runoff is 6.0, your difference is -0.5 and using the above equation:
Soil pH = 6.0 - 0.5
Soil pH = 5.5


135209d1296842079-ph-potential-hydrogen-manual-polled-ph-vs-uptake.gif
 
Might look into your PH,

Rough Calculation Guide:

Here's some good info on ph.....
If your runoff pH is higher than your starting pH, use this equation to determine your soil pH:*
Soil pH = Runoff pH + Difference

If your runoff pH is lower than your starting pH, us this equation:
Soil pH = Runoff pH - Difference.

For example, say your the starting pH of your solution before it goes in is 6.5 and the pH of your runoff is 7.0. The difference is +0.5, so using the above equation:
Soil pH = 7.0 + 0.5*
Soil pH = 7.5

If your starting pH is 6.5 and your runoff is 6.0, your difference is -0.5 and using the above equation:
Soil pH = 6.0 - 0.5
Soil pH = 5.5


135209d1296842079-ph-potential-hydrogen-manual-polled-ph-vs-uptake.gif

+1

Improper pH level can cause nutrient lock-outs. The plant in the photo doesn't look like it's infected with TMV. TMV causes the plants chlorophyll pigment to fade away because its infected and the plant ends up burning itself from the sunlight, it's very distinct when you see it, almost looks like a Nitrogen deficiency but gets worse every day. As GoAuto6 suggested, it could be a pH issue combined with multiple nutrient deficiencies.
 
Ok, I sprayed with epsom foliar...after several hours I think she was looking happier already. I do realize it cant change the damage done already,but mistakes are part of the learning process. At first I thought it strange that I didn't have this problem with my first plant, but then remembered that I fed the first plant way too early...and there are amounts of magnesium in Grow Big...no mag deficiency, but nitro toxicity instead, go figure.

As far as the ph of the runoff, I still need to get a ph meter...I do have an up/ down kit that I am using for feeding and watering...hoping to get a meter soon, because the up/down kit doesn't work so hot after adding molasses.

And yes the other lady is also JH...she is my first grow...and lord knows mistakes were made...this may account for her mere 13 inches...but the buds seem to be filling out pretty decent from what I can tell, hope I get an ok yield, I have friends across the pond in the UK that tell me "auto's are shite"...would love to make them rethink that lol...this picture was taken today...day 50

IMG_0162.jpg
 
...:grin: good to hear Dante! Did you give some to the soil as well? ...because it's a salt, you have be cautious about using it too much/frequently over time, but for now, it's good! Is getting a dedicated Ca-Mg supp' an option for you soon? It's not one of the really spendy additives; The GO Ca-Mg I suggested is about $12, give or take... molasses, which is often one of the main ingredients in the "fancy" stuff, is a great alternative too.. if you go this route, and you spray foliarly, let us know...it is a sugar after all, and we must be careful about when and how much, to avoid inviting unwanted fungi or the like,...! Using it in the soil is no worries! ... pH issues, I don't think it's the problem at this time,...typically there would be other nutes issue/symptoms showing as well,... FFOF soil has had a generally favorable concensus, but some folks have had trouble more recently than in the past,... I think as the popularity has gone up, the company has let slip some inferior batches, and pH as well as bug issues have been reported,....( I'm using their Happy Frog, a "cooler" soil great for starting, but some excellent growers here use it exclusively, and adjust their nute's accordingly... Roots Organic, a hotter finishing soil is good too... I made a blend of these two last grow, and it worked out great!)... :stoneslap:Ah! forgot to ask earlier: What water supply are you using? Do you know how hard it is? -this is another thing that can have profound effect on pH...*** hey, that's a good looking plant Dante, far better than some of my first ones -LOL! Stout buds, nice branching,... yes, your UK doubters need some schooling! Autos, properly grown will be as potent as many photo strains,... trust me! In CA, I can get lab tested meds to compare with what I've grown, and what I'm feeling from the buzz comparisons is neck and neck, until you get the super killer photo stuff that's in the 20's %THC!... I'm guessing my stuff is solidly in the middle to upper teens%.... :grin:
 
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