- Joined
- Mar 2, 2016
- Messages
- 8,069
- Reputation
- 20
- Reaction score
- 35,652
- Points
- 0
- Currently Smoking
- Blue dream
looks amazing fuggz!
trailanimal
son of soil
Doing some upgrades today. I added a second Vipar led panel for 560 total actual watts of led. I also got a cool tube, and mounted the mh/hps vertically. I ran it over night and the temps where pretty high, so I redid it this morning. The tent is currently sealed up for a temp test. This is the general idea of how the lights will be as along as the temps stabilize below 82-83f.
View attachment 594563 View attachment 594562
This is the stand I made. I just cut a hole in the crate and the board is to stabilize the surface and hold th weight of the light. Last night I ran the fan inside the crate, and it did have great air flow through the tube, but it also blew out hot air below the light. I am trying a 4" booster fan right on top on the light, and feeding the hot air directly to the filter to exhaust it as fast as possible. This way the fan will only draw in cool air, and not blow hot air in the bottom of the tent. So far the booster fan is keeping the light cool enough I can place my hand on the tube glass. This is about the same temp it felt with the 190cfm running through it. Thermal dissipation is a funny thing.
View attachment 594560 View attachment 594561
looks like the new crop will be getting plenty of light!Doing some upgrades today. I added a second Vipar led panel for 560 total actual watts of led. I also got a cool tube, and mounted the mh/hps vertically. I ran it over night and the temps where pretty high, so I redid it this morning. The tent is currently sealed up for a temp test. This is the general idea of how the lights will be as along as the temps stabilize below 82-83f.
View attachment 594563 View attachment 594562
This is the stand I made. I just cut a hole in the crate and the board is to stabilize the surface and hold th weight of the light. Last night I ran the fan inside the crate, and it did have great air flow through the tube, but it also blew out hot air below the light. I am trying a 4" booster fan right on top on the light, and feeding the hot air directly to the filter to exhaust it as fast as possible. This way the fan will only draw in cool air, and not blow hot air in the bottom of the tent. So far the booster fan is keeping the light cool enough I can place my hand on the tube glass. This is about the same temp it felt with the 190cfm running through it. Thermal dissipation is a funny thing.
View attachment 594560 View attachment 594561
Fuggzy
Perfectly Flawed
Thanks guy, but unfortunately it's not working out.
My temp range went up to 89-93f and that shit is a no go. I just can't exhaust the hot air out of the tent fast enough. So I'm just going to move on to the next improvement. The cool tube will be saved for a mother tent I am planning. For the time the MH/HPS is being removed all together.My goal the entire time (even when I bought the mh/hps) was to be all led. The reason I wanted to go vert was I have been researching CMH lighting, and it's amazing. The 315w CMH vert with LED horizontal is a fucking great power house combo. One I may still do some day, but the CMH runs much cooler than the 6oow hps, and out preforms a 1k hps. The hps in this configurations is just no good for me.
Problems... My panels are not the best for flowering, and where not bought to be primary lighting... The Vipars where bought specifically for their more blue spectrum.... by the way they are fucking great at vegging.... I REALLY hate the pink/purple light. I don't like it one bit, and I need some white light in there so I can see what the hell is going on....
Solution.... Use the cobs, and 3w diodes I have. Make light bars that will include white light that will run all season. Include with a separate kill switch, but on the same circuit, "bloom booster" bars of red, and far red 3w diodes. Each bars with all lights running would be ~57 actual watts, and pending on wiring configuration, I could have them for horizontal or vertical lighting. The only problem I would face are he cobs, and 3w diodes are competing against 5w diodes those have a much stronger penetration. Something I can overcome though.
I have been testing a bar of just cobs again for passive cooling. Last time I ran the test it was not all that accurate. I just ran the bar with no circulation at all. This is not be realistic as I have lots of circulation in th tent. So this time, I have it hanging in the same spot, but added a fan. I have been moving it all over the place to get different wind forces, but overall, passive cooling is more than realistic. I may jump 1-2 degrees, but I can combat that much easier than 12-13 degrees. Currently the fan is about 5 feet away, and blowing at the desk.
If this idea works out, I only need to get a couple small led drivers for the reds, and I'll have everything to make 4 bars. Heres to hoping!
trailanimal
son of soil
quite the process Fuggzy, glad I just have the sun to deal with. 57w actual, seems pretty impressive to me, conservative!
- Joined
- Mar 2, 2016
- Messages
- 8,069
- Reputation
- 20
- Reaction score
- 35,652
- Points
- 0
- Currently Smoking
- Blue dream
see now thats something i need to get into someday... maybe when my tent isnt running and i have some time for another project! we will be talking about this then fuggz my man! they look nice an fairly simple but very effective at that many watts for a little bit of LED diodes!
Fuggzy
Perfectly Flawed
HAHAHA Conservative is not a word spoken here normally! I was just at 72.5 watt/ft with the HID lighting. I did drop the 600 watter though. I will be at 780 watts when they are all wired up.... There will be 4 of the above mentioned light bars.
Fuggzy
Perfectly Flawed
Do it man, it's not that difficult, and after the first light it's just following a process. I'd be more than happy to speak nerd with you bud!
- Joined
- Mar 2, 2016
- Messages
- 8,069
- Reputation
- 20
- Reaction score
- 35,652
- Points
- 0
- Currently Smoking
- Blue dream
yea we gonna talk more about this later
Fuggzy
Perfectly Flawed
So today I am working on rearranging my room, and tents. My wife wants the shit out of the way! I can't blame her I do too. The lights will have to wait till tomorrow. I'll post some pics later, but for now just some scripts.
By simply moving my smaller tent to the front of the room, I was able to center my big tent, and gain intake from both sides. It was just the large circular port, and one of the rectangle vents on the same side of the tent. Now I have a 6" duct ran from each side Leading out of the room for cooler air. I also solved the stale air issue I was having right in front of my closet. I opened the AC vent in the bathroom. Some asshole installed it above the shower, and it's pointing right at the shitter. Two places I don't like to be cold... Anyways, opening it opened the airflow to that area.
Between the front of the tent and the wall I am left with 16". This gives my exactly enough room to put my small tent in the front of the room. I can also fit the micro cab on the other side which measure 15" wide in total. Now the problem the brings up, is the tent/cab would be blocking my intake ducting. Solution: Use the same milk crates from my vert attempt. Place the tent and cab on the crates, cut the appropriate holes in the crate, and run the duct through them. This would also raise both of them by 12" which is pretty nice as they are ground level. The small tent is a bit larger than the crate so I cut a piece of plywood to increase the crates surface area to 16".
The only ventilation issue left is the small tents intake. Both of it's side vents are flush against something, and the only open vent would draw in warm/hot air... I am thinking about moving the tent forward a few inches, and leading a 4" duct out the back, through the crate also, and intake from the same place as the large tent. I need to check my wiggle room in a bit, It's break time now
As for the cabinet, it draws it's air from the floor, and being on the crate will have no restrictions. The plans for it is to be re-crafted in to a 2 level cloning cab. It is ~4' tall with all the extraction fans, and led/fan drivers fitting in the top ~1'. I want to do something like a 60/40--70/30 split with the remaining room. The bottom room would be used for rooting the clones, and include a small diy bubble cloner for 6-12 clones. The top chamber would be the taller of the 2, and be used to establish some roots before going in to their pots. As for the lights, they are already wired up on 2 separate heat sinks. All I would need to do is take out the cross bar and boom, I have 2 lights at 19.8 watts each. I am going to just attach the lights to the roof, and not raise/lower them. Also with them being on the same light schedules, I don't need to add a light trap, just a floor that allows air to flow through it. For the top chambers light, I am thinking about adding a single blue 3 watt diode to minimize stretching do to lighting.
I need to catch up on journals today too! I've been so damn caught up with my gear that I am forgetting to relax, and enjoy what you guys have going on too! Talk with you guys later!
By simply moving my smaller tent to the front of the room, I was able to center my big tent, and gain intake from both sides. It was just the large circular port, and one of the rectangle vents on the same side of the tent. Now I have a 6" duct ran from each side Leading out of the room for cooler air. I also solved the stale air issue I was having right in front of my closet. I opened the AC vent in the bathroom. Some asshole installed it above the shower, and it's pointing right at the shitter. Two places I don't like to be cold... Anyways, opening it opened the airflow to that area.
Between the front of the tent and the wall I am left with 16". This gives my exactly enough room to put my small tent in the front of the room. I can also fit the micro cab on the other side which measure 15" wide in total. Now the problem the brings up, is the tent/cab would be blocking my intake ducting. Solution: Use the same milk crates from my vert attempt. Place the tent and cab on the crates, cut the appropriate holes in the crate, and run the duct through them. This would also raise both of them by 12" which is pretty nice as they are ground level. The small tent is a bit larger than the crate so I cut a piece of plywood to increase the crates surface area to 16".
The only ventilation issue left is the small tents intake. Both of it's side vents are flush against something, and the only open vent would draw in warm/hot air... I am thinking about moving the tent forward a few inches, and leading a 4" duct out the back, through the crate also, and intake from the same place as the large tent. I need to check my wiggle room in a bit, It's break time now
As for the cabinet, it draws it's air from the floor, and being on the crate will have no restrictions. The plans for it is to be re-crafted in to a 2 level cloning cab. It is ~4' tall with all the extraction fans, and led/fan drivers fitting in the top ~1'. I want to do something like a 60/40--70/30 split with the remaining room. The bottom room would be used for rooting the clones, and include a small diy bubble cloner for 6-12 clones. The top chamber would be the taller of the 2, and be used to establish some roots before going in to their pots. As for the lights, they are already wired up on 2 separate heat sinks. All I would need to do is take out the cross bar and boom, I have 2 lights at 19.8 watts each. I am going to just attach the lights to the roof, and not raise/lower them. Also with them being on the same light schedules, I don't need to add a light trap, just a floor that allows air to flow through it. For the top chambers light, I am thinking about adding a single blue 3 watt diode to minimize stretching do to lighting.
I need to catch up on journals today too! I've been so damn caught up with my gear that I am forgetting to relax, and enjoy what you guys have going on too! Talk with you guys later!
