Indoor Frank's 2021 thread

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Witch Doctor x anvil
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Durban Poison x Zamadelica
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USA Kush
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midwest widow
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Star Fruit
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@WildBill
I measure my nutes with measuring spoons. I mix 1gallon of feed at a time. My measurements are as follows:
1/4 tsp=1 gram
1/2 tsp = 2 grams and so on.
A full teaspoon is four scoops in my program. This also goes for sweet candy and calmg pro. (As for bud candy…1=1 1/4 tsp). You can scroll back through and look at my white board to get an idea of what to feed, and when. I feed all plants on the same general feed schedule….only difference is the max strength feed varies among strains.

to help you understand my chicken scratch:
4 mc, 4 sc, 2 cm, 1bc would be as follows:
Into a gallon of water, mix
1 teaspoon of megacrop
1 teaspoon of sweet candy
1/2 teaspoon of calmg pro
1 1/4 teaspoons of AN bud candy ( the addition of bud candy is new this round, and seems to be making a world of difference in smells)

so, that should help you understand how to read my notes. Let me know if you have any questions. I’ve been feeding this way since MC came out…. And dialed it in along the way. Seems to be working out:pass:

btw thanks @Mossy and @hairyman for the bud candy recommendation….really making a difference.
 
I copied and pasted this from another site where I was asked to do a little write up on my process. I’ve changed a few things since then…but these are the basics.
Some interest has been shown for me to do a quick tutorial on how I grow using Promix HP and Greenleaf Nutrients.

A quick rundown of my setup. I grow 5 plants in a 5x5 tent using cob lighting. I grow in five gallon soft pots, using Promix HP and plant germinated seeds directly in their final pot. For multipot applications, I've done up to five seeds in the same pot, selecting for one final plant to take to harvest. I use Greenleaf Nutrients Megacrop, Sweet Candy, and Calmag Pro. I buy water from the store, since our tap water kind of sucks. For measuring the nutrients, I found a 1/4 teaspoon weighs a gram. So I use that as my scoop. 1/2 teaspoon is two grams, 1 teaspoon is 4 grams, etc. I stick with this across all three nutrients I use.

Germination:
I use the paper towel method and plant the seed once the tap root is 1/4" or more. I poke a hole using my index finger up to the first knuckle, pour several ounces of water directly into the hole and plant the seed tap root down. I lightly sprinkle dirt on top to cover the hole and cover using a clear plastic disposable cup. The process is the same for single seeds, or multi pots. I use a watering can and water in a ring along the outside of the pot. The seeds never gets directly watered from this point forward....I water in a wide ring in order to encourage the roots to reach out and search for water. On planting day, I water about half a liter in this manner. If the media seems dry, I may water right on the outside of the cup, but I never pour water directly on the spot I planted the seed.

Seedling phase:
I consider day one to be the day the cotyledons are open, and collecting "sunlight". For days 1-9 the seedlings only get plain water. I don't ph. Again, I'm watering in a circle towards the outside of the pot, and I opt for several smaller waterings, versus one big watering. I'm not watering more than 1/4 gallon for these first days. I'm trying to encourage root development. I consider the seedling phase to be the most important of the plants life....they are very susceptible to overwatering at this point. An overwatered auto will generally be stunted. I want a few wet dry cycles during this first phase. I go off the weight of the pot to tell me when its time to water again.

Veg phase:
Depending when the plant needs watered again, I'll give the first nutrient feeding around day 9-11. This first feeding is very light, just getting them used to the nutrient. I mix 1 gram per gallon (1/4 teaspoon), and feed about a half gallon. The plant usually won't need fed again for about 4 or 5 days. At this point, I make a decision. If the plant looks fine, I'll feed one more feeding at 1g/gallon. If its a little light in color I'll up the strength to 2g/gallon (half teaspoon). I up the feed amount to 3/4 gallon (each feeding after this will be a full gallon). From this point forward I increase on gram per gallon with each feeding until I've reached 4g/gallon (1 teaspoon). This is usually the strongest I go for the average plant. If I have a heavy feeding plant, I'll increase to 5g/gallon. Anything over that is generally a waste and may cause issues. At any point I start to see a calmag deficiency I start Calmag Pro at 2g/gallon (1/2 teaspoon). That dose usually clears up any issues for me, but it will be dependent on your water. I would increase by 1g/gallon until you see the issues stop progressing.

Flower phase:
Once plants enter flower I stop any increases in the base nutrient (megacrop). The second week of flower is when I start introducing Sweet Candy for a PK boost. I introduce Sweet Candy in the same manner as Megacrop. I start with 1g/gallon (1/4 teaspoon), and increase with each feeding until I reach 4g/gallon (1 teaspoon). Once the flowers are in the "puff ball" stage, I'll slowly start decreasing the Megacrop by 1g/gallon each WEEK (not feeding). By this time you should be feeding a few times per week, depending on the plant. I continue decreasing until I'm down to 1 or 2g/gallon, the Sweet Candy never gets decreased until the flush starts. . At the point the plant is about 3/4 through the swelling phase I'll flush the plant with plain water for at least two feedings, up to three weeks, depending on what the plant is doing, and what stage the trichomes are in.

Training, defoliation, etc:
Personally, I believe defoliation is the key to growing large plants (along with pot size obviously). I start defoliating around day 15-20. My goal when defoliating is to only take fan leaves that are stopping light penetration to lower nodes. I'm trying to encourage as many tops as possible to reach for the canopy. This will not happen if they are covered by fan leaves. I look straight down on the plant, and look for those little tops that are under there....these will become larf if not encouraged to reach up. I start defoliation slowly, only taking a few leaves a day the first couple of times. By the time the plant is in the final week of Veg....I might take a handful a day on large plants. I use LST (supercropping) in conjunction with defoliation to get good results. I bend and tie the plant around day 25-35, depending on what the plant is doing. If the plant is not in perfect health, I don't LST, only defoliate.

When I LST, I tie every single branch down. I poke holes in the pot and run soft plant tie wire through the holes, and around the individual branches. I'm trying to tie the branches as close to straight out as possible, so each little node will become its own branch, and have a nice top bud/cola. I also do a little twisting to the main stem, and bend it greater than 90 degrees if possible. I'm trying to get the top lower than the rest of satellite branches. This will cause the plant to release a hormone (from what I've read lol) that will cause it to go into overdrive....the result should be a multitopped bush, rather than a christmas tree shape. This is the reason I only grow five plants in my large space. I want the plant to have all of the room it needs to spread out. Also, I never release the LST. The plant ties will be there on harvest day.

Results vary, but this is the end goal of the training I do to the plants.
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This multitopped Slowmotion #2 took to the training exactly the way I hope every plant will(some strains like it more than others, but I believe they all benefit from it). Even at this point in the plant development, I'm defoliating a handful of leaves, several times a week.

And here is what we want the result to look like. Lots of long spears of well developed flowers. Even at this stage I'm defoliating.
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And there you have it. That's how I do it. Please feel free to ask questions, talk shit, what ever makes you happy. There are many ways to grow our favorite plant, this is just how I do it.
 
Thanks for sharing that! Do you have a schedule to vary the inputs at different ages?
I go by what the plant is doing. Learning to read what’s going on with them is perhaps the best skill a grower can work on. I work up to full strength (a full teaspoon) and play it by ear from there. If she’s light green, I’ll increase, clawing then I decrease. I start adding in sweet candy once upward growth stops….bud candy at the same time. Calmg pro as needed….although once I start giving it, they get it until the plant is finished.

I sort of tweaked the feed schedule to find something that works reliably, with as little guess work as possible…..all while not having to chase deficiencies.
 
Glad to have finally seen and read through this thread. Solid work Mr.Dank, and thanks for sharing the schedule/decoding key. Neat stuff.
 
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