New Grower First ever grow, Northern Lights auto. Wish me luck!
- Thread starter MoonUnit
- Start date
- Joined
- Feb 23, 2014
- Messages
- 20,584
- Reputation
- 40
- Reaction score
- 83,933
- Points
- 0
- Currently Smoking
- are you special?
looking super healthy,i do love a good timelapse...Dutch Passion has some on utube 
- Joined
- Feb 23, 2014
- Messages
- 20,584
- Reputation
- 40
- Reaction score
- 83,933
- Points
- 0
- Currently Smoking
- are you special?
Why is it all tips for growing state different things? iv been told and read that hand feeding coco for best results you need to increase fertigation so more feeds at weaker strengh.
Who to believe tho?
Who to believe tho?
No subtitute for personal experience and observing yourself I guess.
People no doubt recommend what worked for them and over time can generalise to account for the main unknown ... genetics.
I suspect once I have a few successful grows, I'll tinker a bit but generally stick with a similar routine that works for me.
Ultimately you don't know a seeds exact genetic mutations so two plants of the same strain could grow and respond quite diff no matter how they are grown. As the grower, you would look at the one that did better and say .. hey method (x) works great, everyone should do (x) when if the seeds had been reversed, the outcome could also have been reversed.
I'm going middle of the road so to speak where coco is concerned. I didn't buy bricks, which can be loaded with salts so ppl recommend flushing (which often becomes 'always flush coco' advice). Mine was decent quality and pre-buffered to pH 5.8 so I didn't flush it.
I watered with nutes from the get go at low ppm and slowly raised it. I've read enough diff sources that say somewhere in the 1200ppm will work for the whole grow on your typical plant. Some'll like more, some less and at diff stages.
The pH charts that show the ideal ranges for uptakes of each mineral was useful stuff cos that's less genetics and more science.
I knew before starting that accurate pH was important, for coco should be between 5.5-6.5 with 5.7-5.8 being the sweetspot for the best range of nutrient uptake. Many diff sources said to vary it slightly each time.
There are a few things I'll tweak for the next grow but overall it seems to be going well so far...
People no doubt recommend what worked for them and over time can generalise to account for the main unknown ... genetics.
I suspect once I have a few successful grows, I'll tinker a bit but generally stick with a similar routine that works for me.
Ultimately you don't know a seeds exact genetic mutations so two plants of the same strain could grow and respond quite diff no matter how they are grown. As the grower, you would look at the one that did better and say .. hey method (x) works great, everyone should do (x) when if the seeds had been reversed, the outcome could also have been reversed.
I'm going middle of the road so to speak where coco is concerned. I didn't buy bricks, which can be loaded with salts so ppl recommend flushing (which often becomes 'always flush coco' advice). Mine was decent quality and pre-buffered to pH 5.8 so I didn't flush it.
I watered with nutes from the get go at low ppm and slowly raised it. I've read enough diff sources that say somewhere in the 1200ppm will work for the whole grow on your typical plant. Some'll like more, some less and at diff stages.
The pH charts that show the ideal ranges for uptakes of each mineral was useful stuff cos that's less genetics and more science.
I knew before starting that accurate pH was important, for coco should be between 5.5-6.5 with 5.7-5.8 being the sweetspot for the best range of nutrient uptake. Many diff sources said to vary it slightly each time.
There are a few things I'll tweak for the next grow but overall it seems to be going well so far...
- Joined
- Jun 14, 2019
- Messages
- 22,566
- Reputation
- 22,486
- Reaction score
- 119,535
- Points
- 0
- Age
- 62
- Currently Smoking
- The sweet taste of life :-)
pppSimilar threads
