No. That looks like organic fertilizer. I wouldn't combine that with the AN line, but it looks interesting if you were going with organic soil growing. I'm taking about something like this that's just beneficials with no NPK
Feed After Flushing?
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Ditto on the above, feed them now. They were probably fine on the relatively light nutes they were on. I disagree with the tech advice you got about flushing them in the first place.
For soil, just fertigating to the barest hint of runoff is perfect, then let them dry out until they feel lighter. @Mañ'O'Green has numerous posts on here about the art of watering. I fertigate every time, not intermittently with water. I prefer to just keep the nutes low enough that this does not over feed. Intermittent water only stresses the plants a bit due to changes in osmotic conditions in the soil. Plants are happiest if conditions remain consistent, not varying a lot which they will do if you alternate nutes and pure water. Yes, lots of growers get away with alternate pure water, but IMO that does not mean that it is the best approach.
My experience with the AN line is that you might want to check your pH. I found that the AN coco line I used would not manage pH at the EC levels I used for autoflowers. Actually, the AN nutes seemed to be more of a hassle to pH than others I have used because whatever the buffer in there is, it seemed to interfere with pH adjustment even though it did not manage to correct the pH. Bottom line, I would check pH I were you.
Good luck with it, so far your plants look in excellent health.
For soil, just fertigating to the barest hint of runoff is perfect, then let them dry out until they feel lighter. @Mañ'O'Green has numerous posts on here about the art of watering. I fertigate every time, not intermittently with water. I prefer to just keep the nutes low enough that this does not over feed. Intermittent water only stresses the plants a bit due to changes in osmotic conditions in the soil. Plants are happiest if conditions remain consistent, not varying a lot which they will do if you alternate nutes and pure water. Yes, lots of growers get away with alternate pure water, but IMO that does not mean that it is the best approach.
My experience with the AN line is that you might want to check your pH. I found that the AN coco line I used would not manage pH at the EC levels I used for autoflowers. Actually, the AN nutes seemed to be more of a hassle to pH than others I have used because whatever the buffer in there is, it seemed to interfere with pH adjustment even though it did not manage to correct the pH. Bottom line, I would check pH I were you.
Good luck with it, so far your plants look in excellent health.
Yes, agree with @Olderfart above. I tried the AN line once myself. Nice stuff but a bit tricky at anything other than full strength 5ml/gal and definitely responded best to RO/distilled water.
The BioBizz light mix works pretty well on it's own the first 3-4 weeks. The advice I got and used successfully with BioBizz and AN was to pH to around 6.3
I found that mixing the AN nutrients and letting it sit for at least 20 minutes was necessary for the pH to stabilize before attempting to adjust it. Give that a try. AN is very strong so test the EC/ppm if you can.
Also, you probably don't need to feed everytime. Water, water, water, feed, and repeat. The soil probably won't need to be watered every day either. Good luck.
The BioBizz light mix works pretty well on it's own the first 3-4 weeks. The advice I got and used successfully with BioBizz and AN was to pH to around 6.3
I found that mixing the AN nutrients and letting it sit for at least 20 minutes was necessary for the pH to stabilize before attempting to adjust it. Give that a try. AN is very strong so test the EC/ppm if you can.
Also, you probably don't need to feed everytime. Water, water, water, feed, and repeat. The soil probably won't need to be watered every day either. Good luck.
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AN support. Not AFN support. AN = Advanced Nutrients. And they sell a flushing product, so naturally I would assume they would be in the "pro-flush" camp since it's a sale for them.
Nice catch, now it makes a lot more sense.
My brain just put an extra letter in there.
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@Kilbarrog Why flushing most commercial soil usually does not end well. Dolomite lime is a good source of calcium and magnesium. It is inexpensive and persistent. It is only slowly water soluble. This as well as many other organic sources for the elements our plants need are dependent upon the soil organisms to make the IONs of these elements available to the plants root system. When you flush soil like you did you flush a large component of the organisms out of the pot, You flush all of the IONs that are available to the plant out of the pot. You also wash out some of the Dolomite lime and other hard minerals. So you have a blank slate ---- not really. How much lime remains? The hard minerals do not all wash out of the pot. No way to know. You cannot just replace it, you don't know how much and even if you had a good guess it takes weeks for the microbes to repopulate and weeks longer for them to establish some kind of balance to the pot. This does not even touch on what has happened to the PH or the other hard minerals.
All is not lost but I believe you have buggered up a good start. I would Add Recharge today and a full dose of BALANCED nutrients tomorrow.
What you need to learn about watering will come with practice. Here are the basic rules: Never let the soil dry out. Soil and or coco can become hydrophobic if allowed to dry. This means it repels water. This in turn will create dry pockets in the soil and the roots and microbes will die there. If your soil - coco have accidentally dried out use a surfactant to help re-wet it. I like yucca powder. Don't let soil remain soggy by watering too much too often. Root rot, damping off, molds, fungus gnats and other problems start in soggy soil. When you do water water the entire pot. How to learn when to water starts before you plant the seed. Fill your container with fresh soil/coco and weigh it (heft it) this is the lightest weight and consider it a dry pot. Now slowly water until the soil/coco will no longer absorb the water and run-off begins; weigh the pot (heft it) this is the maximum water, the wettest the pot can get. The difference between wettest and driest is the maximum water weight, for ease of explanation lets just say the water weighs 20 pounds. When the pot loses 10 pounds (half of the water weight) it is time to water again. Slowly wet ALL of the soil until run-off begins. There is an art to watering. Coco can be fertigate many times a day if you want to continually present fresh balanced nutrients to the roots.
AN wants you to water to run-off because they want you to use more product. Organic soil that is maintained properly never needs to be watered to run-off just to run-off.
Peat based soil without Organic components can be watered to run-off but if you budget your nutrient inputs it also is not needed.
Coco should be fertigated to 15%-20% run-off every day it is fertigated.
Learning how much and when to fertilize is probably the hardest thing to learn about growing. Don't feel discouraged Farmers never give up!
All is not lost but I believe you have buggered up a good start. I would Add Recharge today and a full dose of BALANCED nutrients tomorrow.
What you need to learn about watering will come with practice. Here are the basic rules: Never let the soil dry out. Soil and or coco can become hydrophobic if allowed to dry. This means it repels water. This in turn will create dry pockets in the soil and the roots and microbes will die there. If your soil - coco have accidentally dried out use a surfactant to help re-wet it. I like yucca powder. Don't let soil remain soggy by watering too much too often. Root rot, damping off, molds, fungus gnats and other problems start in soggy soil. When you do water water the entire pot. How to learn when to water starts before you plant the seed. Fill your container with fresh soil/coco and weigh it (heft it) this is the lightest weight and consider it a dry pot. Now slowly water until the soil/coco will no longer absorb the water and run-off begins; weigh the pot (heft it) this is the maximum water, the wettest the pot can get. The difference between wettest and driest is the maximum water weight, for ease of explanation lets just say the water weighs 20 pounds. When the pot loses 10 pounds (half of the water weight) it is time to water again. Slowly wet ALL of the soil until run-off begins. There is an art to watering. Coco can be fertigate many times a day if you want to continually present fresh balanced nutrients to the roots.
AN wants you to water to run-off because they want you to use more product. Organic soil that is maintained properly never needs to be watered to run-off just to run-off.
Peat based soil without Organic components can be watered to run-off but if you budget your nutrient inputs it also is not needed.
Coco should be fertigated to 15%-20% run-off every day it is fertigated.
Learning how much and when to fertilize is probably the hardest thing to learn about growing. Don't feel discouraged Farmers never give up!
Thanks for taking so much time to answer my question. Much appreciated!
Again, thanks for the great advice.@Kilbarrog Why flushing most commercial soil usually does not end well. Dolomite lime is a good source of calcium and magnesium. It is inexpensive and persistent. It is only slowly water soluble. This as well as many other organic sources for the elements our plants need are dependent upon the soil organisms to make the IONs of these elements available to the plants root system. When you flush soil like you did you flush a large component of the organisms out of the pot, You flush all of the IONs that are available to the plant out of the pot. You also wash out some of the Dolomite lime and other hard minerals. So you have a blank slate ---- not really. How much lime remains? The hard minerals do not all wash out of the pot. No way to know. You cannot just replace it, you don't know how much and even if you had a good guess it takes weeks for the microbes to repopulate and weeks longer for them to establish some kind of balance to the pot. This does not even touch on what has happened to the PH or the other hard minerals.
All is not lost but I believe you have buggered up a good start. I would Add Recharge today and a full dose of BALANCED nutrients tomorrow.
What you need to learn about watering will come with practice. Here are the basic rules: Never let the soil dry out. Soil and or coco can become hydrophobic if allowed to dry. This means it repels water. This in turn will create dry pockets in the soil and the roots and microbes will die there. If your soil - coco have accidentally dried out use a surfactant to help re-wet it. I like yucca powder. Don't let soil remain soggy by watering too much too often. Root rot, damping off, molds, fungus gnats and other problems start in soggy soil. When you do water water the entire pot. How to learn when to water starts before you plant the seed. Fill your container with fresh soil/coco and weigh it (heft it) this is the lightest weight and consider it a dry pot. Now slowly water until the soil/coco will no longer absorb the water and run-off begins; weigh the pot (heft it) this is the maximum water, the wettest the pot can get. The difference between wettest and driest is the maximum water weight, for ease of explanation lets just say the water weighs 20 pounds. When the pot loses 10 pounds (half of the water weight) it is time to water again. Slowly wet ALL of the soil until run-off begins. There is an art to watering. Coco can be fertigate many times a day if you want to continually present fresh balanced nutrients to the roots.
AN wants you to water to run-off because they want you to use more product. Organic soil that is maintained properly never needs to be watered to run-off just to run-off.
Peat based soil without Organic components can be watered to run-off but if you budget your nutrient inputs it also is not needed.
Coco should be fertigated to 15%-20% run-off every day it is fertigated.
Learning how much and when to fertilize is probably the hardest thing to learn about growing. Don't feel discouraged Farmers never give up!
They told me a few days ago to flush, but I put it off to see would she use up some of their nutes. I'm sick I flushed now.
When you say " a full dose of BALANCED nutrients tomorrow", you mean give them Micro, Grow & Bloom at 4ml a liter (the max dosage)? Should I start using Voodoo Juice again too?
Thanks!
