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DSM, did she ever dry out badly? There's a difference between the the typical N-toxicity tip hooking, and the bowing down of the fingers (caused by a few things potentially) though they can overlap sometimes,... When did the leaves bow and curl like this?
... KindSoil-- at best I see mixed results from them over time here, starting with our staff test of it a few years ago.. There are better "water only" soils (KIS is showing the best, SoHum seems OK too)... even those can do better with some select supplements, and even a little PK boosting which KIS recommends for optimal results. With KS, a common problem is the hot N content, and/or poor P supply during bloom.... I'm betting that P defc. is part of the problem here; color fade on lowers is normal to an extent at this stage, usually N getting tapped out from the leaves... This is why I asked about when the leave distortions happened.. Too much sudden release earlier on can happen, then it runs low during bloom....
Although they say you can, I never recommend doing a coco/soil layering. Coco is a very atypical soilless medium, meant really for hydroponics and is run entirely differently from true soil, mixing them in layers is unwise IMO because of this.... You may have some Ca defc. happening linked to this, coco hogs it and Mg to itself binding it up and keeping it from the roots uptaking it until a saturation leve has been reached,... no Ca-Mg inputs tells me this is happening now especially with RO water going in (zero Ca++)....
No matter what clowns say about "organic" soil/nutes, monitoring in-pot pH is critical, anything can go off range pH in the pot... it's pure myth that "organic" means pH bullet proof... It may be less likely vs synthetic which tends to be very acidic, but it's no panacea! Look into getting a soil pH probe, a good one not a cheapo unit... Accurate 8 is a good one, or spend more $$ from a Blue Labs unit....
Start with adding Ca-Mg to your RO water, to about 120ppm... Get some PK booster, Roots HPK (0-4-3) is good stuff, or their Terp Tea.... Also if you don't use inoculants (and enzymes, not as critical), you're making things harder for the organics to do thier thing, these are key to good results because they help convert the organics into forms the plant can take up....
Holy smokes thank you so much for all this amazing info. This community on here is amazing! Ordering the Bluelab ppm and ph meter as we speak,
These symptoms have recently appeared within the last 14 days. I noticed a curling of the tips first. Than came the yellowing spots. I've tried my best not to overwater/under. Never kept her really to dry in my eyes. But perhaps I was observing the situation incorrectly. Will go out and buy some cal mg and rk booster. This is my first time using bottle nutrients. So I'm kinda lost on what to do and would appreciate if you could explained, in baby steps, How much should I be adding to a gallon of distilled water? Just adding enough where the ppm is 120? I just dont wanna fudge this up lol.
I'll be honest, I'm going to be going in a different direction for soil next run. I wanted everything to be easy for me since this was my first grow so that's why I went with kind soil. It appeared on the surface to be "beginning friendly". But I found it be kinda boring. Thinking about next run, running a nutrient line like NOTG or something.
Am currently using Mammonth P but unsure if that is consider an "inoculant" was also using recharge during veg but stopped once hit flowering.
Anyways, thanks again so much for taking your time to help me out. I really do appreciate it.
~KeepOnSmiling~
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