Bob thank you for your response! I got the rectangular hygrometers off Amazon and the readings are different for each one. Is there a better hygrometer I can buy 5 of that won't break the bank and can fit in a jar?As soon as the middle thick branches snap I would take them off, clean them up and put in a jar. Just put a humidity meter inside the jar and as soon as it goes above 70% then open the jar and let it air. As soon as the humidity is below 70% you open the jar two times a day for 30min. You keep doing that until the humidity reaches 65%. From then on you can let the jar air once every day or every other day.
You can get a good cure that way, but remember that the higher the humidity when you start curing the closer you have to keep an eye on it so mold won't be an issue.
Harvest & Curing Drying Temp/Humidity Ok?
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That's normal that the measurements are of on those cheap little things. What I do is the following. I activate all of them at the same time.
And put them in a big jar with inside a sloppy solution of table salt. At 20°C there should be 75% humidy inside the jar.
Not the difference and write it on the casing of the device. ie, you measure 73% so I would write +2. That way I know that any value coming of this device needs 2% added to that.
Now I hear some of you thinking... That humidity log isn't linear and that's right, but this will be close enough for our purposes
That's normal that the measurements are of on those cheap little things. What I do is the following. I activate all of them at the same time.
And put them in a big jar with inside a sloppy solution of table salt. At 20°C there should be 75% humidy inside the jar.
Not the difference and write it on the casing of the device. ie, you measure 73% so I would write +2. That way I know that any value coming of this device needs 2% added to that.
View attachment 1455969
Now I hear some of you thinking... That humidity log isn't linear and that's right, but this will be close enough for our purposes
Awesome thank you, I learned something today. All my hygrometers are in a sealed container now to calibrate/check. Thank you very much.
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I actually buy them from aliexpress by the 10-pack. Always remember to put fresh batteries in there and let them run for half an hour so the sensor get at temperature. Then check. You'll see that about 1/3 is accurate to fairly accurate and it goes doen from there. But note the difference on the casing and you'll always know the correct humidity.
Another tip is. buy these ones. The sensor and battery acces panel sit in the back. I hot-glue these on the inside of my Ikea KORKEN jars lid. That way I can easily check the humidity and if nessecary replace the battery.
Im at 1 week also, and a few more days to go . My humidity and temps have been on the high side. Its been running around 70% and 72F.
I have a dehumidifier coming should be here today.
One thing I have learned about when people talk about the stem snapping.
It doesn't mean snap like a dry stick "snaps" in two. It means when the flower stem will "snap" or break over instead of just bending in an arch.
A newly cut flower stem can be bent into a circle without the stem breaking over. A "dry" flower stem will break at the bend.
An over dried stem will break in two like an old stick out in the yard.
It took me a run or two to get what people mean when they say the tem snaps.
I have a dehumidifier coming should be here today.
One thing I have learned about when people talk about the stem snapping.
It doesn't mean snap like a dry stick "snaps" in two. It means when the flower stem will "snap" or break over instead of just bending in an arch.
A newly cut flower stem can be bent into a circle without the stem breaking over. A "dry" flower stem will break at the bend.
An over dried stem will break in two like an old stick out in the yard.
It took me a run or two to get what people mean when they say the tem snaps.
Yeah that also took me a while to comprehend, they're supposed to snap, not just bend or break into 2 pieces. You'll feel the internal snap but the branch will remain connected.
Another thing I've noticed this drying round is not much smell at all, until I touch them. I'd guess that's a good thing. I do have some brown bagged also, to try that attempt and the smell is more noticeable. Most importantly, no hay smell at all.
I think drying is the hardest part for new growers like myself. Overthinking and pulling too early or late is what I worry about the most. Mine are still bending without the snap, so they've got a couple days.
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I beliwve if the main stems are snapping its too dry. they mean the little stems that connect the buds to the big stems. when those break off instead of bending and leaving no string material behind then it is dry enough. the top colas wont break off yet meaning there is stil moisture inside you need to sweat out before or during the cure to prevent mold or mildew. the ultimate test is the joint test. if a joint stays lit its time to cure. if not then its too wet and if you cure it too early it will turn to hay or grass smell and taste or mold at the worst. dry em too much and you kill the curing process. ive found if the main stems are snapping its too dry.
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I wet trim a harvested plant and bring it upstairs from my basement, place it into a 4 foot LAWN and GARDEN bag and forget it for 4 to 5 days. Upstairs environment is easy to manipulate....67 degrees and 60% RH////
It dries best this way for me. Open the bag once a day for 30 minutes.
It dries best this way for me. Open the bag once a day for 30 minutes.
As soon as the middle thick branches snap I would take them off, clean them up and put in a jar. Just put a humidity meter inside the jar and as soon as it goes above 70% then open the jar and let it air. As soon as the humidity is below 70% you open the jar two times a day for 30min. You keep doing that until the humidity reaches 65%. From then on you can let the jar air once every day or every other day.
You can get a good cure that way, but remember that the higher the humidity when you start curing the closer you have to keep an eye on it so mold won't be an issue.
What moisture do you dry the product to? If the humidity in your jar is 65% do we assume the product is the same? This has me totally confused .. I have worked wood for a minute. I have an instrument that measures the moisture in the sample.. Humidity is the moisture content of the air in a space . So how do we know when the humidity of a space is the same moisture content as the sample? Help a brother out please..
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You want your curing containers to be between 55 and 65 rh. 58 to 62 rh is the preffered hunidity to cure at. Now the moisture inside the buds should be between 10 to 12 percent before curing. Some of us use the wood moisture meter as a tool in the garden. When buds are 10 to 12 percent moisture no worries of mold and no burping necessary.
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