Does anyone use biobizz light mix?

[Geordiejesus]

No need to mix biobizz lightmix.. Its my go to soil. No issues with it what so ever

 

[automan2]

100

No need to mix biobizz lightmix.. Its my go to soil. No issues with it what so ever

100% agree. Problems with BBLM are almost always grower initiated...we all know those who can tear up a ball bearing with a rubber hammer.....

 

[Geordiejesus]

100

100% agree. Problems with BBLM are almost always grower initiated...we all know those who can tear up a ball bearing with a rubber hammer.....

Yeah man for sure bro... First time growers mistake of overthinking.. I won't use anything but biobizz, eventually wanna start making my own organic soil so I just have to water.

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

I share your curiosity....for me the more simple it is to complete a grow.... the better I have heard that some people layer their soil with All mix for 3/4 of pot and 1/4 layer at the top of the Lite mix for when the plant is a seedling.... there are so many different ways to do things, like you I will be doing more research on nute-loaded soils.

Do not layer soil. Make it as homogeneous as possible. Young roots grow very rapidly but if they hit layers of soil nutrients they may stop or burn and stunt the growth potential of the plant. A healthy tap root can be in the bottom of a 3 gallon pot in two days. Watering is especially important in early root growth.

What you need to learn about watering will come with practice. Here are the basic rules: Never let the soil dry out. Soil and or coco can become hydrophobic if allowed to dry. This means it repels water. This in turn will create dry pockets in the soil and roots there will die. If your soil - coco have accidentally dried out use a surfactant to help re-wet it. I like yucca powder. Don't let soil remain soggy by watering too much too often. Root rot, damping off, molds, fungus gnats and other problems start in soggy soil. When you do water water the entire pot. How to learn when to water starts before you plant the seed. Fill your container with fresh soil/coco and weigh it (heft it) this is the lightest weight and consider it a dry pot. Now slowly water until the soil/coco will no longer absorb the water and run-off begins; weigh the pot (heft it) this is the maximum water, the wettest the pot can get. The difference between wettest and driest is the maximum water weight, for ease of explanation lets just say the water weighs 20 pounds. When the pot loses 10 pounds (half of the water weight) it is time to water again. There is an art to watering.

By watering the entire pot you do not restrict the root growth - bigger roots = bigger plant.

 

[the123321]

Thanks.

 

[BII]

The problems with Bio-Bizz lite Mix seems to start around week 3 when the pre-charge begins to wear out. There seems to be quite a learning curve as to when to add nutrients and at what strength. They end up in the infirmary fairly often. Stay ahead of that but I cannot tell you what or how much to use as it seems to vary from grow to grow?

Contrary to many seeing the Light Mix pre-charge wearing out after a few weeks, I am at 5+ weeks with several plants definitely from the very start and continuing to be on the over-fed side, and still going strong, with no nutes so far and looking like they don't need any. Leaves are deeper green than I'd ever have wanted when growing in coco, but with no leaf tip curl and with very good growth, this doesn't bother me. These plants have only been fed rainwater/air conditioner condensate with about 1 mL/L CALiMAGic, kelp, plus low-dose ReCharge. The Light Mix has about 10% added perlite or Hydroton; I'm using AutoCOBs. The bags were stored outside, got a little wet inside and could have 'cured' more in the summer. @Mañ'O'Green recently noted in another thread that adding ReCharge (microbial supplement) to Light Mix can result in rapid significant release of bioavailable nutrients. I presume I am seeing this (or this is contributing to what I'm seeing).

Questions:
a) Am I simply using a 'hot' batch Light Mix? Is there variability among bags? Can it get 'hotter' if stored warmer and damper?

b) Presuming ReCharge boosts nutrient production/availability, shouldn't I have seen the pre-charge nutrients run out in just a few weeks? Or is the ReCharge really doing such a good job of squeezing the nutes out of the otherwise 'light' soil over a longer period?

c) The 2 plants now at 5+ weeks look real good and are 'telling' me they don't need any feeding; and there is even hint of nute burn at leaf tips. But should I ignore this and just feed at say 40% strength (2-part MegaCrop), presuming the plants need this, that they are just not showing fully expected deficiencies yet?

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

Contrary to many seeing the Light Mix pre-charge wearing out after a few weeks, I am at 5+ weeks with several plants definitely from the very start and continuing to be on the over-fed side, and still going strong, with no nutes so far and looking like they don't need any. Leaves are deeper green than I'd ever have wanted when growing in coco, but with no leaf tip curl and with very good growth, this doesn't bother me. These plants have only been fed rainwater/air conditioner condensate with about 1 mL/L CALiMAGic, kelp, plus low-dose ReCharge. The Light Mix has about 10% added perlite or Hydroton; I'm using AutoCOBs. The bags were stored outside, got a little wet inside and could have 'cured' more in the summer. @Mañ'O'Green recently noted in another thread that adding ReCharge (microbial supplement) to Light Mix can result in rapid significant release of bioavailable nutrients. I presume I am seeing this (or this is contributing to what I'm seeing).

Questions:
a) Am I simply using a 'hot' batch Light Mix? Is there variability among bags? Can it get 'hotter' if stored warmer and damper?

b) Presuming ReCharge boosts nutrient production/availability, shouldn't I have seen the pre-charge nutrients run out in just a few weeks? Or is the ReCharge really doing such a good job of squeezing the nutes out of the otherwise 'light' soil over a longer period?

c) The 2 plants now at 5+ weeks look real good and are 'telling' me they don't need any feeding; and there is even hint of nute burn at leaf tips. But should I ignore this and just feed at say 40% strength (2-part MegaCrop), presuming the plants need this, that they are just not showing fully expected deficiencies yet?

I can answer Yes to every speculation. If the plants are happy do not add anything yet. Watch for the lower leaves to change color first as a sign it is time and start with 50% balanced nutrients adjusted for the maturity of the plant.

I think there is considerable variation from batch to batch in the Light Mix.

Cooking the soil in the sun may well have improved it?

I have not used this schedule yet but it should be good for autos. It is for 10 gallons of MC 2 Part.

 

[BII]

I can answer Yes to every speculation. If the plants are happy do not add anything yet. Watch for the lower leaves to change color first as a sign it is time and start with 50% balanced nutrients adjusted for the maturity of the plant.

I think there is considerable variation from batch to batch in the Light Mix.

Cooking the soil in the sun may well have improved it?

I have not used this schedule yet but it should be good for autos. It is for 10 gallons of MC 2 Part.

View attachment 1241837

Thank you very much for the clear reply.

OK, so as I presumed, no base nutes should be added yet.

But they are entering bloom and I think should get some P-K supplement in a few days. But is my thinking they need P-K supplement just me stuck in hydro/coco growing mode? If they just keep sailing along on the Light Mix, should I just wait for the first signs of any deficiencies and then feed at ≤50% normal, including P-K booster?

How about foliar feeding (with Transport/Optic Foliar), but presumably with low or no N (not needed)? Otherwise, if not fed by foliar, I want to boost the cal-mag in watering in this bloom transition period.

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

Thank you very much for the clear reply.

OK, so as I presumed, no base nutes should be added yet.

But they are entering bloom and I think should get some P-K supplement in a few days. But is my thinking they need P-K supplement just me stuck in hydro/coco growing mode? If they just keep sailing along on the Light Mix, should I just wait for the first signs of any deficiencies and then feed at ≤50% normal, including P-K booster?

How about foliar feeding (with Transport/Optic Foliar), but presumably with low or no N (not needed)? Otherwise, if not fed by foliar, I want to boost the cal-mag in watering in this bloom transition period.

Yes at some point you are going to want to start but not when as you say the leaves are dark green. You have to let the plant use what is there or you will cause lockouts.

 

[BII]

Yes at some point you are going to want to start but not when as you say the leaves are dark green. You have to let the plant use what is there or you will cause lockouts.

And this waiting includes not giving P-K booster at the usual time?