New Grower Ditch The Dealer - The NiceNEasy Way To The £20 Ounce (Growing Guide).

[Dr Fluff]

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Week 12.

Stop using the Final Phase 4 days watering before you cut the plants down, use only plain water at

the end. I let the plants dry out a little before the chop, and cut at the point where I would be giving

it another watering. This helps a little with the drying times.

When trimming off the excess leafs with seeded bud you cannot go as close as you normally would.

This is because some of the seeds will be on the outside of the bud, and you do not want to snip any

of them. Just trim the main fan leafs, and some of the larger crystal covered leafs.

I’m not going to go into the fine details of drying and curing, you should already have a basic

knowledge of this. I find that when drying out your seeded bud by hanging them, it is advisable to

keep the buds as close to the ground as possible – without them touching the floor. Also place a

newspaper underneath the buds. As the buds dry some seeds will just drop to the ground. If you

have a newspaper in position, you can just roll the seeds into the paper crease, and pour them into

your seed container.



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Week 12.

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Week 13 & 14.

7 to 10 days later and your buds should be nicely dried. Again I’m not going to go into the finer

points, but you need to ensure your buds are fully dry before jarring them. Nothing will turn your

seeds and bud to mush quicker than the rot. I like to cut the buds into their individual components,

about thumb size pieces, and then put them in the curing jars. It is advisable to let the seeds come

out of the buds naturally, rather than trying to prise them out. You need to burp the jars as usual. I

like to do it for an hour a day for the first couple of weeks, then an hour every other day or so for a

week. After those three weeks I usually only open the jars to take buds out and smoke them. You

will still need to keep an eye on your pots, but for the most part you’re good for the long haul.

Personally I only take the seeds out of the bud when I’m about to grind it to smoke, but it’s up to you

after this part.

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Week 15 and beyond.

So Where’s This £20 An Ounce Then?

You’ve survived 14 weeks of growing now, and the things that you’ve learned over that time will

hold you in good stead for the next grow. You should have enough seeds to see you through until

you get bored with them, so all you need to think about is buying some bags of soil. You will have

enough nutrients to see you over a few times, and your bulb will also see you through this grow.

The HPS bulb will last longer than this, but with time the bulb dims and will cost you more to run.

250w HPS bulbs are quite cheap to buy. I bought some on Fleabay at a fraction of the normal price,

and they are fine. Just ensure that you use a safe address to send them to. You can never be too

careful with security.

With your running costs being £120, and say you buy some equipment at £40 (new bulb for next

time, soil etc), you will still only need to grow each plant at 2 ounces each – totalling 8 ounces, to hit

the £20 figure. I have seen many of my plants being over the 3 ounce mark by using this method, so

this figure is more than achievable.



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Plant Deficiencies Chart:

This is a basic deficiencies chart, and by no way should be considered a comprehensive guide. As

with the information given in Week 5, I would first direct you to the GreenMansPage as it has some

excellent pictures for a better diagnosis. You should be a member of a forum by now, and their

hospital section can be a great source of information.

http://www.greenmanspage.com/guides/plant_abuse.html

1) a) If the problem affects only the bottom or middle of the plant go to [HASHTAG]#2[/HASHTAG].

b) If it affects only the top of the plant or the growing tips, skip to [HASHTAG]#10[/HASHTAG].



If the problem seems to affect the entire plant equally, skip to [HASHTAG]#6[/HASHTAG].



2) a) Leaves are a uniform yellow or light green; leaves die & drop; growth is slow. Leaf

margins are not curled‐up noticeably. >> Nitrogen (N) deficiency.

b) If not, go to [HASHTAG]#3[/HASHTAG].



3) a) Margins of the leaves are turned up, and the tips may be twisted. Leaves are yellowing

(and may turn brown), but the veins remain somewhat green. >> Magnesium (Mg)

deficiency.

b) If not, go to [HASHTAG]#4[/HASHTAG].



4) a) Leaves are browning or yellowing. Yellow, brown, or necrotic (dead) patches, especially

around the edges of the leaf, which may be curled. Plant may be too tall. >> Potassium (K)

deficiency.

b) If not, keep reading.



5) a) Leaves are dark green or red/purple. Stems and petioles may have purple & red on them.

Leaves may turn yellow or curl under. Leaf may drop easily. Growth may be slow and leaves

may be small. >> Phosphorous (P) deficiency.

b) If not, go to [HASHTAG]#6[/HASHTAG].



6) a) Tips of leaves are yellow, brown, or dead. Plant otherwise looks healthy & green. Stems

may be soft >> Over‐fertilization (especially N), over‐watering, damaged roots, or insufficient

soil aeration (use more sand or Perlite. Occasionally due to not enough N, P, or K.

b) If not, go to [HASHTAG]#7[/HASHTAG].



7) a) Leaves are curled under like a ram's horn, and are dark green, gray, brown, or gold. >>

Over‐fertilization (too much N).

b) If not, go to [HASHTAG]#8[/HASHTAG].



8) a) The plant is wilted, even though the soil is moist. >> Over‐fertilization, soggy soil,

damaged roots, disease; copper deficiency (very unlikely).

b) If not, go to [HASHTAG]#9[/HASHTAG].



9) a) Plants won't flower, even though they get 12 hours of darkness for over 2 weeks. >> The

night period is not completely dark. Too much nitrogen. Too much pruning or cloning.

b) If not, go to [HASHTAG]#10[/HASHTAG]...



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Plant Deficiencies Chart:

10) a) Leaves are yellow or white, but the veins are mostly green. >> Iron (Fe) deficiency.

b) If not, [HASHTAG]#11[/HASHTAG].



11) a) Leaves are light green or yellow beginning at the base, while the leaf margins remain

green. Necrotic spots may be between veins. Leaves are not twisted. >> Manganese (Mn)

deficiency.

b) If not, [HASHTAG]#12[/HASHTAG].



12) a) Leaves are twisted. Otherwise, pretty much like [HASHTAG]#11[/HASHTAG]. >> Zinc (Zn) deficiency.

b) If not, [HASHTAG]#13[/HASHTAG].



13) a) Leaves twist, then turn brown or die. >> The lights are too close to the plant. Rarely, a

Calcium (Ca) or Boron (B) deficiency.

b) If not. You may just have a weak plant.

 

[Dr Fluff]

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Solutions to Nutrient Deficiencies:

The below information is taken from the internet. The source is not known, but if you need crediting

for the information then contact me from the details at the beginning of the text.

Nitrogen ‐ (N)

Plants need lots of N during vegging, but it's easy to overdo it. Added too much? Flush the soil with

plain water. Soluble nitrogen (especially nitrate) is the form that's the most quickly available to the

roots, while insoluble N (like urea) first needs to be broken down by microbes in the soil before the

roots can absorb it. Avoid excessive ammonium nitrogen, which can interfere with other nutrients.

Too much N delays flowering. Plants should be allowed to become N‐deficient late in flowering for

best flavour.

Magnesium

Mg‐deficiency is pretty common since marijuana uses lots of it and many fertilizers don't have

enough of it. Mg‐deficiency is easily fixed with ¼ teaspoon/gallon of Epsom salts (first powdered and

dissolved in some hot water) or foliar feed at ½ teaspoon/quart. When mixing up soil, use 2

teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of soil for Mg. Mg can get locked‐up by too much Ca, Cl or

ammonium nitrogen. Don't overdo Mg or you'll lock up other nutrients.

Potassium

Too much sodium (Na) displaces K, causing a K deficiency. Sources of high salinity are: baking soda

(sodium bicarbonate "pH‐up"), too much manure, and the use of water‐softening filters (which

should not be used). If the problem is Na, flush the soil. K can get locked up from too much Ca or

ammonium nitrogen, and possibly cold weather.

Phosphorous

Some deficiency during flowering is normal, but too much shouldn't be tolerated. Red petioles and

stems are a normal, genetic characteristic for many varieties, plus it can also be a co‐symptom of N,

K and Mg‐deficiencies, so red stems are not a foolproof sign of P‐deficiency. Too much P can lead to

iron deficiency.

Iron

Fe is unavailable to plants when the pH of the water or soil is too high. If deficient, lower the pH to

about 6.5 (for Rockwool, about 5.7), and check that you're not adding too much P, which can lock up

Fe. Use iron that's chelated for maximum availability. Read your fertilizer's ingredients ‐ chelated

iron might read something like "iron EDTA". Too much Fe without adding enough P can cause a P‐

deficiency.

Manganese

Mn gets locked out when the pH is too high, and when there's too much iron. Use chelated Mn.

Zinc

Also gets locked out due to high pH. Zn, Fe, and Mn deficiencies often occur together, and are

usually from a high pH. Don't overdo the micro‐nutrients‐ lower the pH if that's the problem so the

nutrients become available. Foliar feed if the plant looks real bad. Use chelated zinc.

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Solutions to Nutrient Deficiencies:

OVER FERTILIZATION

Causes leaf tips to appear yellow or burnt. To correct soil should be flushed with three gallons of

water per one gallon of soil.

B ‐ BORON (B)

Growing shoots turn grey or die. Growing shoots appear burnt. Treat with one teaspoon of Boric

acid (sold as eyewash) per gallon of water.

Ca ‐ CALCIUM (Ca)

Lack of calcium in the soil results in the soil becoming too acid. This leads to Mg or Fe deficiency or

very slow stunted growth. Treat by foliar feeding with one teaspoon of Dolomatic lime per quart of

water until condition improves.

Check Your Water

Crusty faucets and shower heads mean your water is "hard," usually due to too many minerals. Tap

water with a TDS (total dissolved solids) level of more than around 200ppm (parts per million) is

"hard" and should be looked into, especially if your plants have a chronic problem. Ask your water

company for an analysis listing, which will usually list the pH, TDS, and mineral levels (as well as the

pollutants, carcinogens, etc) for the tap water in your area. This is a common request, especially in

this day and age, so it shouldn't raise an eyebrow.

Regular water filters will not reduce a high TDS level, but the costlier reverse‐osmosis units, distillers,

and de‐ionizers will. A digital TDS meter (or EC = electrical conductivity meter) is an incredibly useful

tool for monitoring the nutrient levels of nutrient solution, and will pay for itself before you know it.

They run about $40 and up.

General Feeding Tips

Pot plants are very adaptable, but a general rule of thumb is to use more nitrogen & less

phosphorous during the vegetative period, and the exact opposite during the flowering period. For

the veg. period try a N:K ratio of about 10:7:8 (which of course is the same ratio as 20:14:16), and

for flowering plants, 4:8:8. Check the pH after adding nutrients.

If you use a reservoir, keep it circulating and change it every 2 weeks. A general guideline for TDS

levels is as follows: seedlings = 50‐150 ppm; un‐rooted clones = 100‐350 ppm; small plants = 400‐800

ppm; large plants = 900‐1800 ppm; last week of flowering = taper off to plain water. These numbers

are just a guideline, and many factors can change the actual level the plants will need. Certain

nutrients are "invisible" to TDS meters, especially organics, so use TDS level only as an estimate of

actual nutrient levels. When in doubt about a new fertilizer, follow the fertilizer's directions for

feeding tomatoes. Grow a few tomato or radish plants nearby for comparison.



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Solutions to Nutrient Deficiencies:

PH

The pH of water after adding any nutrients should be around 5.9‐6.5 (in Rockwool, 5.5‐6.1).

Generally speaking, the micro‐nutrients (Fe, Zn, Mn, Cu) get locked out at a high pH (alkaline) above

7.0, while the major nutrients (N, P, K, Mg) can be less available in acidic soil or water (below 5.0).

Tap water is often too alkaline. Soils with lots of peat or other organic matter in them tend to get too

acidic, which some dolomite lime will help fix. Soil test kits vary in accuracy, and generally the more

you pay the better the accuracy. For the water, colour‐based pH test kits from aquarium stores are

inexpensive, but inaccurate. Invest in a digital pH meter ($40‐80), preferably a waterproof one. You

won't regret it.

 

[Dr Fluff]

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Other Things:

The below information is taken from the internet. The source is not known, but if you need crediting

for the information then contact me from the details at the beginning of the text.

Cold.

Cold weather (below 50F/10C) can lock up phosphorous. Some varieties, like equatorial Sativas,

don't take well to cold weather. If you can keep the roots warmer, the plant will be able to take

cooler temps than it otherwise could.

Heat.

If the lights are too close to the plant, the tops may be curled, dry, and look burnt, mimicking a

nutrient problem. Your hand should not feel hot after a minute when you hold it at the top of the

plants. Raise the lights and/or aim a fan at the hot zone. Room temps should be kept under 85F

(29C) ‐‐ or 90F (33) if you add additional CO2.

Humidity.

Thin, shrivelled leaves can be from low humidity. 40‐80 % is usually fine.

Mould and fungus.

Dark patchy areas on leaves and buds can be mould. Lower the humidity and increase the ventilation

if mould is a problem. Remove any dead leaves, wherever they are. Keep your garden clean.

Insects.

White spots on the tops of leaves can mean spider mites underneath.

Sprays.

Foliar sprays can have a "magnifying glass" effect under bright lights, causing small white, yellow or

burnt spots which can be confused with a nutrient problem. Some sprays can also cause chemical

reactions.

Insufficient light.

Tall, stretching plants are usually from using the wrong kind of light. Don't use regular incandescent

bulbs ("grow bulbs") or halogens to grow cannabis. Invest in fluorescent lighting (good) or HID

lighting (much better) which supply the high‐intensity light that cannabis needs for good growth and

tight buds. Even better, grow in sunlight.

Clones.

Yellowing leaves on un‐rooted clones can be from too much light, or the stem may not be firmly

touching the rooting medium. Turn off any CO2 until they root. Too much fertilizer can shrivel or wilt

clones ‐ plain tap water is fine.



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Harvesting, Curing And Storage:

(Information Taken From SkunkForums.org)

During the last two weeks of plants' floral cycle, suspend the use of fertilizers and apply Final Phase

on a one day on, one day off basis for a week. During the last week before harvest, only provide

fresh water to plants. Leaves will turn uniformly yellow as plants use up their stored sugars and

nutrients. The use of Final Phase and clean water during the last two weeks of floral cycle ensures a

cleaner tasting, easy‐burning medicine.

Harvest marijuana near the end of its 12 hour lights‐on cycle using clean scissors while wearing

gloves. There are many theories and methods regarding how much of a plant to cut during

harvesting, where on the plant to cut, etc. Some growers cut the entire plant at the bottom of the

stalk and hang the whole plant to dry. Others remove only the floral tops at the base of the lowest‐

developed flower on the stalk. They might fasten this to a clothesline or clothes hanger. Growers

often do a partial manicure of their buds at time of harvest, removing all the larger leaves and

trimming most of the mid‐sized and smaller leaves except those that are coated in resin glands.

Most growers dry their cannabis in darkened rooms with good air circulation and air exchange.

These rooms should be pathogen free, about 70 F, with a relative humidity of about 50%. There are

many methods of determining when flowers are properly dried, but one of the more precise ways is

to weigh some sample buds at harvest, and then to continue weighing them as they lose water.

When the flowers weigh approximately 25% as much as they did when first cut from the plant, they

are ready to be taken out of the drying room and stored in sterile glass containers. Most flowers,

except those that are drying as part of an entire cut plant, will be dry and ready for storage after

approximately 6 to 10 days, depending on local conditions. Drying cannabis as part of an entire plant

takes longer than drying individually cut floral clusters.

During the first two weeks after placing flowers in glass containers, open the container in a sterile,

non‐humid environment for two hours every two days. This allows late by products of final curing to

evaporate and exit the storage container.

Cannabinoids contained in plant material are extremely volatile; they begin to undergo chemical

changes as soon as they are removed from direct connection with a living root system.

For maximum durability of Cannabinoids, and to ensure potency and flavour, store cannabis in a

freezer (preferably) or the lower part of a refrigerator. Avoid crushing, rough handling, or other

manipulation of the physical structure of the buds at any time‐ this degrades resin glands and results

in lowered potency. Degraded Cannabinoids also produce degraded euphoriant and medicinal

effects. In general, poorly‐handled, poorly‐stored cannabis produces more sedative effects that lack

the clear, uplifting high of properly‐harvested, properly‐cured, properly‐stored cannabis.