New Grower Ditch The Dealer - The NiceNEasy Way To The £20 Ounce (Growing Guide).

[Malevelo]

Thank you for this guide niceneasy... It's a great thing you've put together, and I am certain I'm going to consume every shred of knowledge and advice you've put into it!

In fact I just started giving it a quick skim and ended up reading about half of it in the middle of thanking you! Fantastic work, and much love

 

[NewGrower83]

Thanks for this man.
I'm not sure why you pollinated the plant unless you were trying to only generate seeds. I thought making the female produce seeds was bad?
I'm still new so I was following you and taking notes until that part lol

 

[Habitual]

Active link any one?

 

[Dr Fluff]

I looked to see if there was any Copyright on this document, I couldn't find any so I will post it here!

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Ditch The Dealer – The NiceNEasy Way (To The £20 Ounce)

Index:

Disclaimer. (Page 2)

Versions And Author Contact. (Page 2)

Introduction:

Why was this written? (Page 3)

Sources of information and copyright. (Page 4)

Will I understand this? (Page 4)

The First Rule! (Page 5)

Planning:

Doing the math. (Page 6)

Buying equipment. (Page 6)

Setup costs. (Page 7)

Running costs. (Page 8)

General price guide (Running Costs). (Page 9)

The Grow:

Light Distance Chart. (Page 10)

Week 0. (Page 11)

Week 1. (Page 16)

Week 2. (Page 17)

Week 3. (Page 18)

Week 4. (Page 21)

Week 5. (Page 22)

Week 6. (Page 25)

Week 7. (Page 27)

Week 8. (Page 29)

Week 9. (Page 31)

Week 10. (Page 32)

Week 11. (Page 34)

Week 12. (Page 36)

Week 13 & 14. (Page 39)

Week 15 And Beyond. (Page 40)

Plant Deficiencies Chart. (Page 41)

Solutions To Nutrient Deficiencies. (Page 43)

Other Things. (Page 46)

Harvesting, Curing And Storage. (Page 47)

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Disclaimer:

"I hate to advocate drugs, alcohol, violence, or insanity to anyone, but they've always worked for

me." Hunter S. Thompson

Since 2009 growing Cannabis in the UK has been re‐graded to a Class B offence, and producing the

plant can cost you up to 14 years in prison. I am in no way trying to get anyone to break the law, no

matter how stupid I personally feel it is. I do not grow or condone the growing of anything illegal.

All pictures here are widely available on the internet, and any information herein should not

constitute advice or be considered advice to assist in activities that are deemed illegal. This text is

for private consumption only, and by reading any further you agree that you know the laws in your

country and accept liability of any illegal actions you commit.

For the government information on the reclassification of Cannabis see below:

http://www.homeoffice.gov.uk/drugs/drugs‐law/cannabis‐reclassification/

Versions And Author Contact:

Document Version: 1.0 (Post Draft Production).

Author Contact: SkunkForums.org (https://skunkforums.org/skunkforums/member.php?u=1113)

 

[Dr Fluff]

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Introduction:

Why was this written?

I've been growing cannabis since 2005, and a smoker for more than two decades. Over the last few

years I've have seen a sharp increase in the cost of street cannabis, and a decline in its already dodgy

quality. If you're lucky you may still be able to get decent produce, but for the most part people are

buying £20 bags of wet uncured Cannabis that weighs as little as 2 grams when dried out. If you're

not that lucky you may be faced with the infamous Grit Weed, or the UK staple diet and Cannabis

world joke Soapbar.

Both Grit Weed and Soapbar are of the lowest quality, and worst of all they are actually harmful to

consume.

Even though the gutter press would like you to think that (and I hate the term) "Cannabis factories"

are being found by the police every day I find it difficult to purchase any sort of Cannabis, and the

older I get the harder it gets. I also find the fact of giving away my hard earned cash when I can

easily do it myself to be distasteful at least. Even if it wasn’t about the expense, there’s always you

safety to think on. There are plenty of nuts on the streets just waiting to bother people. Then there

is always the looming possibility of the police picking you up, and it’s criminal record time. None of

these things appeal to me.

Due to all the above issues I researched how to grow my own. My first test run was in a PC tower

case. Then I grew in converted wardrobes, and some small outdoor plants. All of these produced

Cannabis of a fair grade, but not enough to be self sufficient. As self sufficiency is the goal I looked

into upgrading my space, and investigated "stealth kits" among other prefabricated rooms. With

these kits your space can be built into a disguised cabinet, chest of drawers, or even just a sealed

blank unit. I didn't have a thousand pounds burning a hole in my pocket however, and have found

the cheaper versions of these items to be of poor build quality, so the stealth option was out. DIY

was also an option, but I have been down this route before with filters, converted wardrobes and

the like. Although they do work, I have found their maintenance can outweigh the reduced starting

cost, and you sometimes end up spending more than if you had bought a manufactured item ‐

especially over time. If you're really good at DIY then it may be an option for you. I am both clueless

and lazy when it comes to things like that, and as the name implies I like a NiceNEasy way to do

things.

In the end I found the best option for cost, space and end product was the Grow Tent. It is a

cheaper, efficient alternative to a hard sided box, and this is where we will be concentrating our

efforts.



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Introduction:

Sources of information and copyright:

The majority, if not all the information supplied in this document can be found on the internet

through Google searches. I have taken the things that work well, and put them together in this

document to try and help others starting off.

These methods have been repeatedly used with good success, and while you shouldn't have any

great difficulty each grow and environment are different so I offer no guarantee.

I have tried to use my own words and copyright free pictures, but in cases where better details were

found I have used them. In those cases, I have tried to print the source of any material. I'm not

trying to take credit for work anyone else has done. The copyright stays with the original author.

This is far from a definitive guide. Nor is it saying this is the only or the best way to grow Cannabis ‐

but it does work well in this situation. There are a lot of different ways to grow, each with their own

plus and minus points. The intent here is to provide a possible starting solution for you to "Ditch the

Dealer", not to give another overview on Cannabis or to produce a “Bible”. There are many books

on growing Cannabis, written by professionals that give you the whole history, culture, and all the

basics. Just put a search through Google and take your pick.

The majority of books I have read only concentrate on people converting whole rooms, or larger

spaces for growing. If you're only growing for yourself chances are you won't need to know how to

convert a room, at least not in the beginning. What you do need to know is how to adopt a system

that will fit into your lifestyle, be unobtrusive, and provide an end product that will satisfy your

needs. Hopefully this text will at least point you in the right direction.

Will I understand this?

Some growing terminology is used, so I do assume you will have the knowledge to understand the

basics. Other than that, this text is geared towards those who have a little growing experience,

those upgrading from a single plant or using CFL lighting. The techniques used would also be

beneficial to those growing in confined spaces, or on a budget.



The First Rule!

Of all the things that get a small grower caught, the greatest reason is people dropping themselves

in it. Showing your buddy your plants, and he tells someone not so decent. Maybe he gets busted

himself and spills everything. Maybe you get drunk and show off your jars of weed, talking openly

about growing in front of people. It may seem like common sense, but NEVER talk about your grow

to anyone who you don't completely trust, and I mean NEVER ‐ it'll get you caught guaranteed. I

can’t stress this enough, which is why it gets a page of its own.

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Planning:

Doing The Math:

When starting out there are two different roads you can take. The first is buy budget at the start,

save the extra pennies you get from not buying weed, and then buy decent equipment later when

you’ve a couple of grows under your belt. The second is to buy decent from the start, saving

yourself money in the long term as you do not need to re‐buy as often. When I started I went for

the first option, but in hindsight I wish I went for the second. I'll let you make up your own mind on

what way to go, but buying cheap will mean more replacements down the line.

For the purposes of this text I have taken the middle road prices. I know for a fact that you can get

the same equipment cheaper than quoted here, as I've been quite generous price wise for

convenience sake and rounding up. Your initial outlay for equipment, seeds and electricity for the

entire grow is approximately £500. This may seem quite a lot, but when you take into account that

an ounce of poor street weed is between £120 ‐ £150 and your expected first crop is 4 ounces (all

going well), then you should make your entire outlay back within the first 12 weeks (in savings).

After the first crop, you will have enough seeds and know how, that each ounce thereafter will only

cost you £20 to produce (per crop). That £20 figure could be reduced further easily, but I'm not

going to get into hydroponics and cloning etc in this version.

Buying Equipment:

The first and most important piece of equipment you need is somewhere you grow. I recommend

that you get permission from anyone else in the house before you start off, as eventually they will

find out – they don’t call it Skunk for nothing (I use Skunk here as a generic street name, not a

specific breed of Cannabis). I also recommend a room that you do not use a lot, like a spare

bedroom or utility area. The fan noise is not extremely loud, but it’s loud enough when you’re in the

same room. Personally I couldn't sleep in there, so don't be fooled by adverts for silent fans. You'll

have to pay for real silence.

The area needs to be secure enough so people do not stumble in on your grow. It needs to be dry,

flat, have access to electricity and water, and have some airflow (a partially open door or window

will do for our small area). It also needs to have a stable temperature (reportedly Cannabis has a

best “lights on” growing temperature of around 68 to 78 degrees Fahrenheit).

Buying your equipment is a difficult point when you first set off. Not only is it a lot of money to be

spending on a new hobby, but the current media bashing Cannabis gets on a daily basis only serves

to make people more paranoid when making purchases ‐ and rightly so. When buying I would

recommend you go directly to a hydroponics shop, and leave eBay for selling unwanted birthday

presents. If you can, use cash and pick the goods up yourself. Also be aware when leaving the

shops, as there have now been reports of undercover Police following people home after being seen

buying a lot of equipment. No matter how you purchase though, you should always use a different

address for delivery than you do for growing.

 

[Dr Fluff]

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Planning:

Setup Costs:

Tent £90 (DR60 Secret Jardin 60x60x140cm). After extensive viewing, reviewing, and then starting

all over again, I settled on the Secret Jardin DR60. There are a lot of different tents out there, some

good, some not so good. The main reasons I chose this over the others was its slightly cheaper than

the others but good build quality, this model has passive vents which allow air into the tent. It is

slightly larger than the BudBox which is pretty much its closest rival. There is also a cheaper version

of the DR range, the DRS or "Street". Personally I didn't rate these, and thought spending the extra

few quid worth it.


Lights £80 (250w HPS Hobby Kit). For the size growing space we have, the 250w HPS light is the best

suited, and the largest recommended. We will be using this light for the entire grow.

Fan & Extractor £110 (125mm Ruck with Carbon Filter). Any time you read about another house of

plants being raided, it’s usually because they can be smelt streets away. A fan and filter not only

keeps your grow room temperatures down, and provides your plants with new air (by forcing new

air in through the passive vents), but will also remove the smell of your plants. Buying a cheap fan

and filter will maybe do you for one or two grows before it packs in, maybe. but of all your

equipment I think this is the one you need to buy well at the start. For this I recommend the Ruck

125 fan and matching Rhino (previously Phat) Filter. These are usually sold as a complete kit, and

can be quite a bit cheaper than buying separately. Again, I cannot stress enough the impact a good

carbon filter and fan will bring to your grow. Most types of decent Cannabis will really stink. Even 1

plant in bloom will be smelt everywhere in your home without decent extraction. As a side note,

ensure you buy no bigger than 125mm as this is the largest size of ducting the DR60 can take.

Pots £5 (8lt black standard pots). These can be bought anywhere. Personally I bought a half dozen

from the local supermarket at a £1.

Soil £10 (John Innes No2). You can get 3 x 20lt bags of this from your local garden centre for £10.

Get all no2 soil, not 1 or 3. Don't skimp on the soil either, no Tesco dirt or B&Q dry fibre. Having a

decent soil will really pay you back in the long run.

Seeds £30 (Automatic White Russian / AK47). Most people who have more than a passing interest in

Cannabis have heard of the Indica and Sativa types. Over the last few years a third genus in the

Cannabis family has been brought into play ‐ the Ruderalis. This strain has been ignored till late, due

to its low potency, but it has the trait of flowering automatically and not being dependent on light

cycles for flowering (regular Cannabis needs a 12/12 light cycle to flower). Now it has been crossed

with stronger regular strains such as the AK47 or New York Diesel, it is becoming a real option for

the small grower.

Nutrients £20 (Ionics Grow / Bloom, Cannazym, Final Phase). These can be bought from pretty much

any hydro shop as they are the bog standard nutrient. With the Ionics ensure you buy the correct

water type.

Fan £5 (6" Clip Fan). B&Q, camping and caravanning shops, Amazon. Loads of places sell these.

= £350 (Setup Cost).

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Planning:

Running Costs:

Prices taken from: http://www.ukpower.co.uk/price+updates.asp

Taking the average unit price at 20pence.

Lights (12weeks x 7 days = (84 Days) @ 20hrs/day) = 1680 Hours

1680 x 5pence p/h = £84.00 (Per grow).

Fan & Extractor (12weeks x 7 days = (84 Days) @ 24hrs/day) = 2016 Hours

2016 x 1pence p/h = £20.16 (Per grow).

Fan (12weeks x 7 days = (84 Days) @ 24hrs/day) = 2016 Hours

2016 x 0.5pence p/h = £10.08 (Per grow).

= £114.24 (£120) (Running Cost).

General Items:

Scope £5, Syringes £5, Cooker hood filter £9, Duct tape £2, Cord £2, Root riots £4, Perlite £3 = £30.

= £350 + £120 + £30 = £500 (Total Cost 1st Crop) = Dealer Free in 12 weeks.



Planning:

General price guide (Running Costs):

This guide takes the price per unit at 10pence. For the purposes of this text we have taken the unit

price at the more realistic 20pence for 2009. (Source: SkunkForums.org)




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The Grow:

If you've followed this so far, then I'm going to assume that you can follow the instructions with the

equipment and get it safely working. By this stage you'll probably be dying to get started, so we will.

The following part of the text is split into 12 growing weeks. There is also a pre‐growing week we

will call 0 for continuity, and then a 2 week crop drying period called 13 and 14.

Light distance chart: (Source: SkunkForums.org)

For the purposes of this text we will only be concerned with the 250w line. As you can see the

optimal distance between the plant tops and the bulb is 5‐16 inches. I usually keep mine between 8

and 12 inches, apart from when the plants are seedlings when I keep them at approximately 20

inches.

 

[Dr Fluff]

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The Grow:

Week 0.

Splitting the seeds. By far the easiest method I have found to start your seeds is the "paper towel

method". (Images courtesy of SkunkForums.org)

Take a lunch box or plastic container, and place some tissues at the bottom. Wet the tissues so they

are moist, but not soaking. For this grow we will be using all 10 seeds that came in the pack.

Using your tweezers carefully place the seeds in the container, leaving space between each.

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Week 0.

Place another layer or two of tissue over the top of the seeds, and again moisten. Make sure the

towels are not soaking. If they are then carefully drain off the excess water. Too much water could

rot your seeds before they sprout.

Place the top back on, and then wrap in a kitchen towel or something similar. Then place in a cool,

dark place. The quicker you wish them to sprout, the warmer the place you should put them.

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Week 0.

After a couple of days carefully pull back the towel and see if the seeds have broken through. If so,

then get a root riot cube and using your tweezers carefully place it in with the tap root downward.

Don’t worry if you have to break the cube open slightly to get the seed in without damaging it. Once

you have placed it back in the plastic cover for it, it will hold together.

If you have a propagator, then place them in that. Otherwise I use a clear lunchbox and cover the

top with cling film. Ensure the cubes are kept moist, but not soaking.

Once you see some life coming up through the cubes, then turn the lights on, your extraction, and

other fan. If you have a seedling light, then use it now, otherwise we'll keep with our 250w HPS.

Your lights should be set to come on for 20 hours, and then off for 4 hours. You will use this cycle

throughout your grow. Non‐Autoflowering Cannabis uses different cycles, but this seems to be the

best for our needs.

At the moment your seedlings need only a little light. As we're using the 250w HPS light, we can

keep it at a distance further than it would normally be. At this stage I would keep it around 2 feet.

After a couple of days your seedling should have developed a set of leaves (as above), and if you

take the cube out of its plastic you may see the tap (starting) root peeking out from the bottom. If

this is the case, then it is time to put your plants in their first pots. Sometimes you may need to help

the casing off the seedling. Normally it will come off by itself, but if not you need to be very careful

as not to damage the cotyledon (seed) leafs.

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Week 0.

In the first few weeks for vegetative growth Cannabis puts a lot of its energy into its root system.

With Autoflowering Cannabis you only have a vegetative state of 3 weeks, no matter what lighting

regime you use (normal cannabis requires a 12/12 lighting system to change from vegetative to

flowering state) you need a larger starting pot than normal, and the deeper the better.

I have found that a 2.5lt or greater plastic bottle of drink is a good size for an Autoflower pot. Cut

the top off, and put a few holes in the bottom for drainage.

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To make things easier for us in week 3, when we will need to re‐pot the plants for the final time, I

cut the bottom off the pot and then tape it back together. I also cut down the side of the bottle until

it meets the re‐stuck bottom section. As I’m sticking the side down, I put a length of cord the whole

way up from top to bottom, and leave a tail hanging out at the bottom.

Week 0.

Then wrap a cut up black plastic bin bag or the like around the bottle so no light gets to the roots,

and fill with John Innes 2 and Perlite (3/1 ratio). A pot like this can do your plant for up to 3 weeks

without any added nutrients.

 

[Dr Fluff]

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Week 1.

Once you’re plants have some roots coming out the bottom of the Root Riot cube, then transfer

them to the pop bottles. Ensure when you fill the bottles with soil that you have mixed a little

Perlite in. This greatly aids drainage, and can prevent root problems. There’s also nothing more

boring than waiting 10 – 15 minutes for water to slowly filter through compacted soil. If you don’t

use it then be prepared for a lot of waiting, possible rot and other issues.

Your plants still only need a little light at this point, so keep it around 1.5 feet. No nutrient feeding

required as there is more than enough already in the soil, but you can use a light solution of

Cannazym at 1ml/litre with every other watering to help the root system.

A little on watering Cannabis.

(Information courtesy of SkunkForums.org)

Use a good quality soil mix that is light and provides good air retention. Pack the soil firmly and

water immediately. Leave soil a few inches below the top of the container to hold water while it

soaks in during watering. Do not water too often. It’s good to let the media dry out a little and then

water completely. Feel the weight of the pot – it’s a great indicator of how much water is in the soil.

Water lightly once to wet the substrate and break the soil tension, then come back after a minute

and saturate. Let some water run out the bottom to leach out old contaminants. If you use trays

under your pots do not leave standing water. Kick the bucket, or lift it a bit to judge weight. This is a

good indicator of water content. Too frequent watering and over fertilizing is one of the most

common mistakes new growers make. An old saying for soil growing is “fertilize weakly weekly” and

there is some truth to that.



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Week 2.

Your plants should now have a few leaf sets, and growing quite quickly. I would leave the light

height at the same position, and let the plants grow into it till about 1 foot. No nutrient feeding still.

Alternate Cannazym feeds with the water at 2ml/lt.

From the end of Week 2, beginning of Week 3, you need to keep an eye for the sex of your plants.

All your plants will show sex between 14 and 21 days. Male plants usually show first.

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Week 3.

This is a busy week as you will need to ensure your plants are sexed, and re‐pot them in their final

pots. I have placed a couple of images below to show you what you need to be looking for when

sexing your plants.

(Image courtesy of www.gardenscure.com)

(Image courtesy of Rollitup.org)

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Week 3.

With any luck you will have a number of females to choose from. Out of your 10 plants you will

need to choose 4 females, and 1 male. Although you cannot predict the male to female ratio, this 4

and 1 should easily be achievable from 10 seeds.

Your plants will have filled out nicely in their bottles, but now you need to transplant the 4 best

females. You can now unwrap the black plastic from the bottles, and take the tape off the bottom.

Be careful not to rip any roots.

Place the plant in its new container, and fill with soil. Do not pat the soil down at the moment.

Slowly pull up the string & it will put the tape off with it. The remains of the bottle will then open.

Work the bottle out slowly out, leaving the newly planted undamaged auto. You can then fill the

rest of the pot out.

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Week 3.

Your 4 newly re‐potted plants will fit nicely into the DR60. If you wish you can keep your selected

male in the pop bottle for a week or so in one of the corners. After that you’ll need a window or

somewhere outside to keep it.

As you have potted up there will be enough nutrients in the soil, but to help with stretch you can

occasionally feed a low strength grow nutrients until around Day 28, and Cannazym feeds at 2ml –

both of these on alternate watering.

Light height should always now be between 8" ‐ 12" from the top of the plants until you chop.



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Week 4.

You will be noticing a sharp increase in growth this week, and your female plants will be developing

more pistils. Your male should also be growing its own flowers. It is time to remove the male from

the tent and put it outside or on a window in a different room.

The female plants should still not need any further nutrients at the moment, although you can feed

an alternate watering of Cannazym at half strength.

The male will require a little feeding of bloom nutrients as it is in its original soil. Feed half strength

on alternate feedings.

 

[Dr Fluff]

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Week 5.

It is now time to start collecting the pollen from the male plant. Some of the flowers should have

started to open. Instead of using the whole plant, you can cut off a section and place this in a fresh

cup of water in an area where it will get some Sun. This way you can have a few goes at collection if

something goes wrong.

Place some white paper under the cut plant to catch any falling pollen. It will show up as yellow

against the white background. Replace the water in the cup every few days, and the cut should be

ok for around a week or more.

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Week 5.

As more flowers open, the pollen will fall onto the white paper. You can tap the plant gently, and if

any flowers are ready to burst then the pollen will drop down. It is best to do this in a room with no

breeze as the pollen is airborne. This pollen collection can also be an issue for people with allergies.

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Once you have collected enough pollen (and a little goes a long way) scrape it up, take out any

foreign objects like spent flowers, and if you’re not going to use it within a few days, you’ll need to

store it.

Moisture is the enemy of pollen, and it will kill it straight away. To dry your pollen for storage, just

keep it on the sheet for a couple of days in a cool, dry, dark place. Then make an envelope out of

paper, and put the pollen in with some uncooked basmati rice which will act as a desiccant and keep

the pollen dry. Then place this envelope in a small container and put it in the back of the fridge. The

pollen should then keep for a few weeks or more.

Week 5.

At present I would be feeding ¾ strength bloom nutrients only on alternate feedings. The plants

may also benefit from a “pure water flush” every couple of weeks from this point, though it is not

strictly necessary. This involves watering the plant slowly until about half the water has bled out the

bottom again. The flush can release locked nutrients which will slow the plant growth and

development. It is advised to only do this somewhere where the excess water can drain away easily.

A little on Plant Deficiencies.

During one point or another in your grow you will be faced with a nutrient deficiency, over or under

watering, heat damage, or a number of other issues that will all show themselves in the state of your

plant. I could spend pages and pages trying to explain resolutions to you, but it has been covered in

details on many websites. I do provide a “Plant Deficiencies Chart” at the end of this text, but for

the most part you would be best joining an online forum and going to their “Hospital” pages. Other

growers will have had the same issues previously, or will have seen the condition and be able to

direct you. To give you a visual starting reference the “Green mans page” is an excellent resource

that has been copied onto many other sites.

http://www.greenmanspage.com/guides/plant_abuse.html



24 | P a g e

D i t c h T h e D e a l e r – T h e N i c e N E a s y W a y T o T h e £ 2 0 O u n c e .

Week 6.

It is now time to pollinate your female plant. Normally I would choose one of the two front plants to

pollinate, just for the sake of convenience. We pollinate in Week 6 as it can take between 4 to 6

weeks for the seeds to mature. As this plant has a 12 week life, this gives us enough time for

everything to be complete before chop down day.

25 | P a g e

D i t c h T h e D e a l e r – T h e N i c e N E a s y W a y T o T h e £ 2 0 O u n c e .

Choose a bud to pollinate. Normally it would be a few of the side buds, and leave the main one

alone, but it’s really up to you. A little pollen goes a long way, so a few side buds should get you

enough seeds for the next few grows. After that time you’ll probably want to switch it up anyway,

and go for a different strain. There are a lot of good ones out there, so it’s a pity not to try some.

Week 6.

To pollinate the bud first of all you will need to turn off all the fans (owing to smell and heat build‐up

you may have to keep your extraction on). Take the chosen female out of the tent, and then with a

cotton‐bud scoop a little of the pollen up and flick it over the buds (much like you would flick a

cigarette ash). Do this a couple of centimetres above the bud and let the pollen float down to land

on the pistils.

Keep the fans off for the next 12 hours then turn them back on again. You will need to time it so the

fans should be turned on again a half hour after the lights go out. As soon as the lights go out you

need to mist all the plants lightly with water. This will kill off any stray pollen. Do not mist the plants

when the lights are on as they could burn.

There will be some cross pollination to the other plants in the tent using this method, but done

carefully it is only a few stray seeds and it should have little effect.

Nutrient wise I would still keep to ¾ bloom only as the Auto‐flowers usually like to keep light

feeding, but each plant is different so you will again need to use the forums hospitals and the green

mans page if there are any problems.

 

[Dr Fluff]

26 | P a g e

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Week 7.

Now we’re settling in for the waiting period. Even though it is only a week after pollination, you can

still see the changes in the buds. Keep to the same levels of nutrient feeding, and watch for the

starting signs of any deficiencies.

27 | P a g e

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Week 7.

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Week 8.

Week 2 after pollination, and the seeds should be developing quite rapidly now. Some of the pistils

on the plant should have turned to an orange colour.

29 | P a g e

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Week 8.

30 | P a g e

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Week 9.

Things should really be moving quickly now. Some of the pods on the plant should be starting to

open, and the seeds should be visible. The seeds may be starting to change colour as well. As your

seeds mature they will change from green to brown in colour. As the seeds do not all finish at the

same time, you will get seeds of differing maturity.

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Week 10.

We’re in the home straight now. You seeds should be quite mature and clearly visible. You may

notice the plants water uptake decreasing. Some of the lower leafs may be starting to brown and

die off as the nutrients are used up.

32 | P a g e

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Week 10.

33 | P a g e

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Week 11.

The seeds will all be finished by now. Do not use any more nutrients, and start the plant off on Final

Phase every other watering. Over the next couple of weeks the fan leafs will start to die off, and

your plant will start to look a bit ill. This is only natural.

34 | P a g e

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Week 11.

35 | P a g e

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Week 12.

At the end of this week you’ll most likely want to chop your plants, but this all depends on the colour

of the Trichomes. To see these clearly you’ll need to use the scope you bought at the start.