Indoor Dinafem Critical Jack and Auto Seeds Sucker Punch

Anybody have input on switching back and forth between led and hps during flower? Most of my heat control issues are at night, when the temp drops in to the low 70's in my closet. This happens even with a 600w oil filled heater running right in front of the air intake. I have a 150hps that runs nice and hot, and would likely allow me to turn the heater off. (Power is VERY expensive here)
Any concerns of harming the plants, if I have to switch back and forth?
Regards, Kyle

@Unique , can you answer this question?
He is great with the lamps!
 
Anybody have input on switching back and forth between led and hps during flower? Most of my heat control issues are at night, when the temp drops in to the low 70's in my closet. This happens even with a 600w oil filled heater running right in front of the air intake. I have a 150hps that runs nice and hot, and would likely allow me to turn the heater off. (Power is VERY expensive here)
Any concerns of harming the plants, if I have to switch back and forth?
Regards, Kyle
why can't you just use your hps & led?? instead of the heater? Unless you not have enough room for both, but switching back & forth can get to be a real pain in the ass, so would kinda be better avoid the heater altogether, since that is using more power then your hps anyways, and with more light should give ya bigger harvest..
 
Thanks guys. I may try hanging both lights, if I can maintain enough clearance with the hps 150. That little sucker gets hot enough to cook a steak on, and I definitely want to keep it away from anything that could melt or burn. I'll update after I play around with it tomorrow.
Besides the hassle of physically switching back and forth with the lights, I wonder if the plants would care? If I manage to herm an auto with light stress, I'd need a bigger dunce cap.
Regards, Kyle
 
Thanks guys. I may try hanging both lights, if I can maintain enough clearance with the hps 150. That little sucker gets hot enough to cook a steak on, and I definitely want to keep it away from anything that could melt or burn. I'll update after I play around with it tomorrow.
Besides the hassle of physically switching back and forth with the lights, I wonder if the plants would care? If I manage to herm an auto with light stress, I'd need a bigger dunce cap.
Regards, Kyle
I have a 150w hps also.. I don't think it gets very hot at all.. the one I have is kinda with built in ballast also but the thing never gets hot enough that ya can't touch the metal, I leave the glass on so maybe thats why not throwing as much heat:shrug::pop::pass:
 
Thanks guys. I may try hanging both lights, if I can maintain enough clearance with the hps 150. That little sucker gets hot enough to cook a steak on, and I definitely want to keep it away from anything that could melt or burn. I'll update after I play around with it tomorrow.
Besides the hassle of physically switching back and forth with the lights, I wonder if the plants would care? If I manage to herm an auto with light stress, I'd need a bigger dunce cap.
Regards, Kyle
that 150w hps only needs 18" clearance from tops, ideally would be little lower with a 150w... I can run my open 400w 18" above tops and gone to even 12" above without hurting plants at all, air-flow the key!! and of course extracting the warm air and replacing with fresh.. here a pic showing how I just angle mine 8" - 10" from sides I use for side lighting... it's not best angle, but if you look under my critical grow, you'll see plenty of photo's and how many times i moved it, they pretty versatile.:pass:
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here is a better pic showing how I have it.
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Day 30...
And things looked alarmingly droopy when I opened the cabinet this morning. I rearranged my lighting setup to include both the 150hps and the LED. Temps seem good, topping out around 82-84f during the day, and staying in the high 70's when the sun goes down.
As stated above, I mixed the FFOF soil with 50% coco brick, and I still have not had to give a decent feeding. Im afraid these girls would have fried themselves to a crisp, if I had run straight OF soil! Twice I have given a LIGHT feed of 1ml/gal of the full Go-Box lineup. Yesterday, both plants felt light, and looked ready for watering. At 30 days, I was concerned that, while they appear to have plenty of Nitrogen from the soil, they might be able to use some P and K. I added 3ml Biothrive bloom, and 2ml BioMarine per gallon of RO water, and added PH up to get to approximately 6.4 (using the liquid PH test kit from GH).
Humidity in the RV was higher than normal last night, at about 45%. I changed the wick in my cool mist humidifier, and it worked better than I thought!
Any idea what is causing this droop in the Critical Jack? The Sucker Punch (on the left) is looking OK, but not so much the CJ.
This looks like too much water, to me, but as I said, the bags were light, and this mix should be plenty airy with all the Coco and Pearlite in it.
I sooooo wish there was a feasible way to run hydro in this setup, but I just don't think it's viable under these conditions.
Please advise if you have any ideas, or need more info.

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Ok, there's an angle I hadn't considered... If you look at the third pic in my opening post to this thread, at the lower left on the floor are my two 3" air intakes. The air being drawn in is probably in the low 60's, and is flowing right at the fabric pots. I had a space heater in the closet, outside the cabinet, but in front of the air intakes until last night, when I ran both the 150, and the LED. The combination of those raised my temps up where I needed them, but now I am taking in non preheated air... Hmmmm. That's something I will explore! Thanks!
Regards, Kyle
 
I bet its got cold roots! Can u angle the intake air up? Or make sure its not directly blowing on the pots.
 
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