Changing light schedules

[sickzone]

If you need to put so much energy into your grow I would do one of three things. And mind me, this is what I would do. I'm not telling you to do that

• Isolate the sh!t out of that grow space. Invest once in good isolation and recover that the coming years...
• If possible move the grow space to a warmer location inhouse.
• Change your schedule so you grow in the warm season and grow enough to make it through to winter, so to say.

I really only have the 1st option.
Which is what I think I will do,by adding some more.

Might try the insulation boards next

 

[sickzone]

Do you vent the tent to outside (or to the carport), or directly to the lung room (i.e., the storage room the tent is in)?

Are the heaters inside the tent, or in the lung room (storage room)?

Do you run your tent exhaust fan continuously, or control it by temp/humidity? Is it usually temp or humidity that's higher / more of an issue for you?

Vent into lung room
Heater in the lung room
Exhaust only on when needed.
Humidity will be more an issue late on my next run when temps rise going into spring.

 

[Bob's Auto's]

Isolation panels (PUR or equivalent in the States) or Rockwool have a very good isolation value.
I also theorize that if you pull in "cold" air from the top and expel air through the bottom the cold air can pass through the lighting and get warmer before it reaches the plants. Mind me, I have absolutely no practical knowledge in growing in a tent. This winter will be my first...
So maybe @St. Tom or @pop22 or someone else can chime?

 

[pop22]

Although insulating the tent will help, the lung room will still need to be heated. It doesn't need to be 70F+ though I'd say heat the room to 58-60F. Put your exhaust fan on a speed controller ad slow it down about 25%. With the tent insulated, heating the room to 58F your lights should keep the tent 68-70 F, not ideal but close enough. I've grown indoors in temps around 68F and it went fine, might have lost a few percent in yield but not enough to matter.. Also keep your lights as close as you can, I'd run that Ts 1000 at around 14" above the plants,possibly even 12" . That will not only give them more light, more light also means more heat to the plant.

And that Refletix insulation is great stuff! I insulated a DWC res with it, that I chilled only using frozen 2 liter bottles. I went from a bottle every 12 hours to 1 every 32 hours! So wrap your pots with it also, it will help maintain an even root zone temperature.

 

[BII]

Presuming your heater has a thermostat (and heater use can be coordinated with your tent exhaust fan), why not put it in the tent, much like I see many put humidifiers within tents; and vent warmed air into the storage/lung rooom?

 

[sickzone]

Isolation panels (PUR or equivalent in the States) or Rockwool have a very good isolation value.
I also theorize that if you pull in "cold" air from the top and expel air through the bottom the cold air can pass through the lighting and get warmer before it reaches the plants. Mind me, I have absolutely no practical knowledge in growing in a tent. This winter will be my first...
So maybe @St. Tom or @pop22 or someone else can chime?

I'm liking the idea of rockwool. I think I can wedge it all in that spot I have the tent.

 

[sickzone]

Although insulating the tent will help, the lung room will still need to be heated. It doesn't need to be 70F+ though I'd say heat the room to 58-60F. Put your exhaust fan on a speed controller ad slow it down about 25%. With the tent insulated, heating the room to 58F your lights should keep the tent 68-70 F, not ideal but close enough. I've grown indoors in temps around 68F and it went fine, might have lost a few percent in yield but not enough to matter.. Also keep your lights as close as you can, I'd run that Ts 1000 at around 14" above the plants,possibly even 12" . That will not only give them more light, more light also means more heat to the plant.

And that Refletix insulation is great stuff! I insulated a DWC res with it, that I chilled only using frozen 2 liter bottles. I went from a bottle every 12 hours to 1 every 32 hours! So wrap your pots with it also, it will help maintain an even root zone temperature.

I do ok with the lights on,but on a cold overcast day when lights go off it becomes a challenge.
That's why I was wondering if going 24h light a few days in a row would screw things up.

I'm using earthbox Jr's so wrapping in reflectix would be no problem.

Going to try a mini heater.
Both my heaters couldn't be used with the inkbird.
But I can with I mini,they just have an on off switch.