LazyNhazy
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Soil require 6.2 at lowest level, also at that level you begin having calmag uptake issues. I will also add that with higher end led you need more calmag than ever. Optimal range for a soil grow is 6.5. At the 50-60 day range for a happy frog 5gal you actually need to hit with a 6.8 to counter react the ph swing it has at that stage with a healthy sized plant. I just can't see it working with my medium. I would never hit my soil with lower than a 6.5. My way of doing things and if someone else wants to try it or has tried it I would love to see results.
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Machamillion
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yah edit was done immediately after it was posted. it was not up more then 20 seconds before I noticed the wrong message.
I agree with you on the is point. I found two videos last night while searching for more info on the product... This is one of them..The shop owner in the vid states at the 1 minute mark, that because of the ph buffer, this product is not good for mediums with organic fungi or bacteria in it (basically all soils), but that it's excellent for hydro. Which makes sense.
The other vid is from the mantis YouTube page.. It's of a headless man in a lab of some sort, wearing a lab coat and latex gloves, while pouring 5ml of this solution into a beaker. That leads me to believe that there is nothing organic in it. Which again, makes much more sense for hydro.
Why is seemingly everyone still fixated on targeting a specific pH for their medium/soil when the base nutes are fully designed to be effective over a wide range, with feed pH being essentially irrelevant the main reason to use the product? If actually 'pH Perfect,' input pH doesn't matter (unless at obvious extremes); the products are designed to avoid the need for having a set pH.
Apparently as with AN's pH Perfect chemistry, this product similarly provides chelated nutes that are readily available and taken up by the plant over a wide range of pH. Thus, as with AN's pH Perfect the feed pH is generally irrelevant, can be anywhere within the product's effective range, here with a rather wide range claimed.
Regarding whether the product is 'organic' or not, I'd presume not. It is likely that all or most of the nutrients have been custom chelated/synthesized.
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Machamillion
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Or soiless like promix hp. F.N. had good luck with it.
Hmmmm, let's see.. Because PH is incredibly important, lol.. Have you seen the infirmary thread, lol? It means people are actually learning from their mistakes, and not just blindly following labels and feed charts, lol.
In general and in soil, there is a a huge difference between 5.7 and 6.2. There's a huge difference between 6.2 and 6.5 and between 5.7 and 5.9.. There is a huge difference between 6.0 in soil and 6.0 in hydro.. It all matters to the plants, and to people who are focused on the "growing" aspect. I've never known ph flux to be a good thing in soil. That's why LNH said he doesn't go below 6.5 in his soil set up.. Because 5.8 isn't a good ph for soil.
Believe it or not, AN ph perfect and other products that have "ph ranges" are designed for hydro.. Yes, they will "work" in any medium as people say, but not at an optimum.. It's actually designed for hydro. The 5.5-6.5 ph range is a general range. It doesn't take growing styles into account.. But the ph flux, range.. is actually a hydro thing. Ph swings happen in reservoirs with sitting water.. Ph'ing in general is a hydro thing, lol.. But people forget.. That's why the guy in the vid said it's excellent for hydro style setups, and not for mediums with organic matter.. It matters.. That's why he said it, and why ph is being asked about. I was just looking for more info on the ingredients. I thought they might be listed on the bottle, if weren't not online anywhere.
Yup. That's exactly what the guy in the vid said! He said he was going to use it in a coco/lava rock mix and grow in autopots.. Which is basically a soilless hydro set up. Which makes perfect sense.
Yes, feed "PH is incredibly important;" and this product looks optimized for hydro, coco, etc., not soil.
But am I right or wrong (or mixed-up) that what matters most is whether the nutes are taken up by the roots/plant? All these charts with different ranges for each nutrient we are used to thinking in terms of are not relevant, if the nutes themselves have been modified to be more readily taken up by the plant over a wide pH, if each nute had very wide range of bioavailability (each bar in the usual charts much extended in both directions).
And am I right or wrong that if the nutes (likely custom chelated) are bioavailable over a wide pH range, then manually adjusting the pH to some pre-conceived number is not needed? If anything adjusting pH with nutes that don't need adjustment just adds needless salts/ions.
Keep in mind that a good portion of growers, maybe even most, myself included, never bother to even check pH. For 5 years now, I've used AN pH Perfect or now MegaCrop in coco/perlite with what is likely borderline quality water (225-240 ppm) without adjusting pH, using diverse supplements, without excesses or deficiencies (other than normal/expected cal-mag issues with some plants).
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