Nutrients CANGEN X MANTIS Buffered Nutrients Test

[MANTIS_mike]

Thank you for the detailed answer. That was what I was looking for. Apologies if my comments seemed combative.

Hey Damien,

My pleasure.... Your questions did not seem combative.... They seemed intelligent and they allowed me to explain our product at a deeper level for everyones understanding.

I really like this platform because it attracts experienced growers. It is important to us for you all to understand how our product works and why it is so consistently effective.

 

[Death The Cultivator]

Hey Damien,

My pleasure.... Your questions did not seem combative.... They seemed intelligent and they allowed me to explain our product at a deeper level for everyones understanding.

I really like this platform because it attracts experienced growers. It is important to us for you all to understand how our product works and why it is so consistently effective.

The pH range is perfect with an EC at acceptable ranges throughout the entirety. At the very least it seems your product is aimed at producing quality rather than yield. I know that commercial greenhouses have sworn by low nutrient concentrations as the way to quality and yield so this is refreshing..

I have a cabinet full of different Nutrients lines at the moment but this is another product worth consideration. Thanks

 

[MANTIS_mike]

The pH range is perfect with an EC at acceptable ranges throughout the entirety. At the very least it seems your product is aimed at producing quality rather than yield. I know that commercial greenhouses have sworn by low nutrient concentrations as the way to quality and yield so this is refreshing..

I have a cabinet full of different Nutrients lines at the moment but this is another product worth consideration. Thanks

Thank you very much
Reach out when that cabinet is less full and you are ready to see the results that MANTIS can create.

 

[BII]

Hi Damien,

We do have an ingredients list...

It has an N-P-K of 1.5-2.7-2.3
Other ingredients in our formula are:
-Boron
-Copper
-Molybdenum
-Iron
-Zinc
-Calcium
-Magnesium

Our buffering agent is our trade secret but that is what makes our solution so effective. The pH range is between 5.6 - 6.2.

The buffering agent is inert so the plant does not absorb it. This allows the plant access to the ingredients listed above at all times as opposed to the normal feast and famine. When growing with MANTIS, you are not required to add any additives at anytime. You can, but you need to be careful as the buffer works so effectively that the plant tends to draw up what is available more readily. We do suggest that if you add anything else make sure you drop the suggested dosage of the additive by at least half. I alway suggest to not add anything other than MANTIS so you can see the final results on its own. I do not know of many growers that add anything else after they have done a full grow on its own.

We do not suggest to add a foliar at anytime when growing with MANTIS.

White ash is an anecdotal determinant that is said to be clean product. We agree, there could be poorly grown product that can still burn with white ash. What we do know is that the ppm of MANTIS is 500. At that rate, the plant is able to absorb the nutrients that it takes on and therefore is nice clean burning "white ash" even with no flush.

To explain how the plant is able to take on what it needs when it has different requirements in different stages throughout the life cycle, I will use the example of aquaponics.... In aquaponics the food source never changes and the ratio of the food to water never changes. As the plant needs more, it takes more because it is always available. MANTIS is like that but clean and synthetic and you can use it in any neutral substrate.

The fact that the plant is ALWAYS in the optimal pH range is what allows the plant to take on what it needs when it needs it at opposed to us feeding the plant what we think it needs when it needs it.

Best thing to do is put it to the test For anyone that would like to try MANTIS for the first time shoot me a quick email and I can set you up with a discount of 40% for the 1 litres. I also have large scale pricing for our 19 litre or larger.

Please hit me direct if you are interested.

mike@cangenx.com
250 328 4695

Yes, thank you for reporting this information. [Of course, we all want more].

I just finished drying and trying the first of 3 plants grown from start to finish with Mantis as the base nutes. Other than persistent slight N deficiency from several weeks old to near mid-bloom, not enough to affect development, it worked well, was simple and the outcome (buds) all look fine. The just dried Pink Panama/Mephisto plant is definitely potent, high quality, looks and smells good, yield/weight about my normal, etc. -- Comparable to what I've grown with MegaCrop and AN pH Perfect before that. The other plants, a few weeks behind, are LSD-25/Fast Buds, which I frequently grow and this is looking very good so far; and OK Kush Auto/Seed Stockers. The plants are/were growing in <4 gallon office trash containers used as hempy buckets, with 3 inches of feed-flooded perlite and then 80/20 coco/perlite, under AutoCOBs, with the usual tent, environmental controls, ventilation, etc. Considering that I had less time during this grow to do much more than the minimum, I'm happy and will continue to use Mantis. I never did a single pH measurement. I used mid-Atlantic, US East coast city water (from the Potomac River) usually at 225-240 ppm.

With my few plants, I saw some generalized yellowing of leaves, likely N deficiency or just general hunger. This was feeding at 5 mL/L with mostly organic-type additives - microbes, kelp, carbs - and sometimes PK supplements. But when the plants look to want more, such as more N, what should one do? Just up the Mantis concentration? By how much? Or just add the specific needed supplement(s)?

Mantis with hempy buckets and coco (in the center of Mantis' buffering range) looked to be a good combination. The hempy buckets even further reduced work, with feeding (refilling) done just 2x/week. I can also use Air-pots or AutoPots. What type of containers and media do you consider likely best to use with Mantis?

 

[Death The Cultivator]

Yes, thank you for reporting this information. [Of course, we all want more].

I just finished drying and trying the first of 3 plants grown from start to finish with Mantis as the base nutes. Other than persistent slight N deficiency from several weeks old to near mid-bloom, not enough to affect development, it worked well, was simple and the outcome (buds) all look fine. The just dried Pink Panama/Mephisto plant is definitely potent, high quality, looks and smells good, yield/weight about my normal, etc. -- Comparable to what I've grown with MegaCrop and AN pH Perfect before that. The other plants, a few weeks behind, are LSD-25/Fast Buds, which I frequently grow and this is looking very good so far; and OK Kush Auto/Seed Stockers. The plants are/were growing in <4 gallon office trash containers used as hempy buckets, with 3 inches of feed-flooded perlite and then 80/20 coco/perlite, under AutoCOBs, with the usual tent, environmental controls, ventilation, etc. Considering that I had less time during this grow to do much more than the minimum, I'm happy and will continue to use Mantis. I never did a single pH measurement. I used mid-Atlantic, US East coast city water (from the Potomac River) usually at 225-240 ppm.

With my few plants, I saw some generalized yellowing of leaves, likely N deficiency or just general hunger. This was feeding at 5 mL/L with mostly organic-type additives - microbes, kelp, carbs - and sometimes PK supplements. But when the plants look to want more, such as more N, what should one do? Just up the Mantis concentration? By how much? Or just add the specific needed supplement(s)?

Mantis with hempy buckets and coco (in the center of Mantis' buffering range) looked to be a good combination. The hempy buckets even further reduced work, with feeding (refilling) done just 2x/week. I can also use Air-pots or AutoPots. What type of containers and media do you consider likely best to use with Mantis?

I know you aren't asking me but my best guess would be a foliar or low strength dosage of ammonium sulfate.

It's good to hear you were able to add supplements with no real issues. Do you have pictures or a link?

 

[MANTIS_mike]

Yes, thank you for reporting this information. [Of course, we all want more].

I just finished drying and trying the first of 3 plants grown from start to finish with Mantis as the base nutes. Other than persistent slight N deficiency from several weeks old to near mid-bloom, not enough to affect development, it worked well, was simple and the outcome (buds) all look fine. The just dried Pink Panama/Mephisto plant is definitely potent, high quality, looks and smells good, yield/weight about my normal, etc. -- Comparable to what I've grown with MegaCrop and AN pH Perfect before that. The other plants, a few weeks behind, are LSD-25/Fast Buds, which I frequently grow and this is looking very good so far; and OK Kush Auto/Seed Stockers. The plants are/were growing in <4 gallon office trash containers used as hempy buckets, with 3 inches of feed-flooded perlite and then 80/20 coco/perlite, under AutoCOBs, with the usual tent, environmental controls, ventilation, etc. Considering that I had less time during this grow to do much more than the minimum, I'm happy and will continue to use Mantis. I never did a single pH measurement. I used mid-Atlantic, US East coast city water (from the Potomac River) usually at 225-240 ppm.

With my few plants, I saw some generalized yellowing of leaves, likely N deficiency or just general hunger. This was feeding at 5 mL/L with mostly organic-type additives - microbes, kelp, carbs - and sometimes PK supplements. But when the plants look to want more, such as more N, what should one do? Just up the Mantis concentration? By how much? Or just add the specific needed supplement(s)?

Mantis with hempy buckets and coco (in the center of Mantis' buffering range) looked to be a good combination. The hempy buckets even further reduced work, with feeding (refilling) done just 2x/week. I can also use Air-pots or AutoPots. What type of containers and media do you consider likely best to use with Mantis?

Wow.... Thank you for such a detailed analysis of your grow. We are very glad to hear that you were happy with the end results in terms of quality and yield and how MANTIS was able to assist you with your time management.

In order for us to achieve an all in one formula we had to lower the amount of overall nitrogen. This can lead to slightly lighter coloration of the leaves than you are used to seeing. This is not a deficiency and as you have seen does not effect the final results.

We do not suggest that you should add more nitrogen as we are confident that it is not needed. That being said, tweaking your own recipes for your plants is a process that a lot of growers pride themselves on. We prefer not to give advice on what more to add because we developed the product that you do not NEED to add anything else. That is the beautiful thing about MANTIS

Air pots or auto pots are both great options. If you were to go with the Auto pots would it be the whole system or just the pots? The one thing that we do suggest is that if you are ever pre mixing larger quantities of water and MANTIS, just make sure that the water is constantly circulating so the buffer is consistently moving in the solution.