Calcium deficiency ?

[Jonnnnf369]

Okay i think this is a ph problem now. Ph in resivoir is 7.0 i need to check my meter with some calibration liquid or whatever its called.

 

[St. Tom]

have you tried cleaning the probe on your meter also my ph in my res changes if I don't keep the lid on as the air changes it

 

[St. Tom]

Okay i think this is a ph problem now. Ph in resivoir is 7.0 i need to check my meter with some calibration liquid or whatever its called.

I calibrate my meters once a month I have a Hanna one like you and a bluelab combi meter in my res

 

[Jonnnnf369]

have you tried cleaning the probe on your meter also my ph in my res changes if I don't keep the lid on as the air changes it

Havent tried cleaning it yet but it does look clean

 

[St. Tom]

Havent tried cleaning it yet but it does look cleanView attachment 1529749

I use this to use on my meters my hanna one is a HI98127 and maybe yours just need calibrating also @Bob's Auto's is a soil guy and will be loads of help to you

 

[Bob's Auto's]

I use this to use on my meters my hanna one is a HI98127 and maybe yours just need calibrating also @Bob's Auto's is a soil guy and will be loads of help to you

Yeah, but I don't use pH or EC meters anymore. BioTabs takes care of that for me. I just give plain unadulterated tapwater.

But I used to use pH meters and these are my experiences with cheap (20-30€/$) probes...Yes they need to be calibrated and often, the more you use them the more you need to calibrate. You need to check the manual. Some call for two-point others for three-point calibration. Get the right calibration liquids and also storing liquid (KCL) so the probe glass doesn't dry out.
Check the batteries, if they are getting low this will influence the results so you'll have to calibrate more often.
If not in use for a long time, remove the batteries and put a couple of drops KCL into the cap which holds the glass sensor.

 

[pop22]

There is no such thing as "drainage material" it is a myth and contrary to the laws of hydraulics. It actually works against both drainage and wicking. I grew organic in auto pots for 2 years without problems. Yes, if they are long flowering they may deplete the nutrients. When you see signs of that, shut off the res, top dres and top water for a week. I had BigSul make a slurry from worm castings and water with that. His plants bounced back quickly.

You cirlce a leaf tip that's curlig down, that is called clawing, that and the very dark color tells you it is N toxic. Being organic, you might be able to "flush the soil" to reduce the N ( and everything else ). Run about 5 gallon of plain water through the pot then let it dry out a bit for 2-3 days. And no, toxicity often shows up in early flower. And too much of any one nutrient can cause lock out of one or more of your other nutrients.

I always felt I maybe should of used a bit or perlite for drainage also the canazym you add 25ml to 10 ltr of water so and I just used to add it to my res but your roots maybe fine also here's my thread were I grew them 3 in autopots and 1 top fed https://www.autoflower.org/threads/...-140-series-perpetual-grow.78551/post-2500687 and as you can see I had the shiny leaves etc on some

Yea two plants in two seperare autopot trays. Ph in the trays are 6.6 in the resivoiur its 6.45. It weird how can it be nitrogen tox if they were doing great up untill they started to flower. Wouldnt it have killed off the plant when it was young. Like i mentioned haven't added any nutes to this except for cal mag yesterday.

 

[Jonnnnf369]

Yeah, but I don't use pH or EC meters anymore. BioTabs takes care of that for me. I just give plain unadulterated tapwater.

But I used to use pH meters and these are my experiences with cheap (20-30€/$) probes...Yes they need to be calibrated and often, the more you use them the more you need to calibrate. You need to check the manual. Some call for two-point others for three-point calibration. Get the right calibration liquids and also storing liquid (KCL) so the probe glass doesn't dry out.
Check the batteries, if they are getting low this will influence the results so you'll have to calibrate more often.
If not in use for a long time, remove the batteries and put a couple of drops KCL into the cap which holds the glass sensor.

Im not very good at navigating this forum, do u have a post or thread or whatever its called where you did a grow with biotabs, and documented it? Im interested in those.

 

[Bob's Auto's]

Im not very good at navigating this forum, do u have a post or thread or whatever its called where you did a grow with biotabs, and documented it? Im interested in those.

This is my current grow. And these were from this season in the greenhouse.
Enjoy reading up on them And if you have questions, shoot!

 

[Jonnnnf369]

You could take out the plant, pot and all if possible and smell the bottom. If it smells sour and bad...It's just to wet.
Turn of the autopot system. Add some bennies like Bactrex and Mycotrex and let them sort it out for you
Also add some form of enzymes like Plagron Pure Zym, this will hasten the decomposition of the rotten roots and provide nutrients for the plants themselves.

Are you from the states? Anywhere i can order this stuff from around here. Im assuming if i order from their biotabs website it will take a while lol