Some of the take-aways and lessons learned from this grow.
- It's not worth it to transplant autos, just pop 'em in the final pot.
- Reusing coco is plenty doable, just flush it well before re-using it and make sure you get the run off to < 300ppms.
- Flushing coco is tricky. I noticed that running water through and measuring tds of the run off would show a decline in ppm but it would bottom out at ~400 I think, but if I let it dry out and flush more, it'd be back up high and come down to that same (~400ppm) point again. It isn't definitive but I suspect this could be a combination of build-up from the previous grow but also calcium carbonate in my tap water. Flushing with RO water seemed to do a better job of bringing the ppms of the run off down to < 300.
- 3 Gallon pots worked fine for me again but I felt like I was doing a lot of watering. I had previously been treating the coco a little more like soil and letting it dry out some between waterings. Well this time I chose to keep up on watering daily and never let the medium dry. The theory is that by keeping it wet, you're not so much keeping it wet as adding oxygen regularly. I felt like with the 3 gallon pots I was not getting as large of a root system to make the size of pot necessary or justifiable. So all my fuzzy logic aside, I'm trying smaller, taller pots next to see how they perform by comparison. I expect to have to water a little more frequently.
- Regular feeding at 1/2 - 3/4% strength still resulted in apparent build-up in the medium so I was flushing(rinsing) regularly to try to keep the build-up down. It didn't seem to have an adverse affect but it's an observation I made and I want to play with it a little to see if I can increase efficiency. I've adjusted my process to include a plain watering with calimagic to run-off everyday then a full strength feeding afterward to run off. The theory here is to saturate the coco with all it needs to be satiated then watering just enough feed to give the plant what it wants and run off ppm stays low and build-up won't happen. Follow my photo thread to see how this works out for me.
-Cool temps do a great job of bringing out color but I allowed a pretty broad swing in temps from mid-high 50's up to 80ish at any point through the cycle. I didn't have consistent results across all plants in the tent and that is one of the things that I think could've been a factor. I don't know if I had a cold spot but I did find I had better growth in the back of my tent so I tried to cycle the plants around for a bit but that was unmanageable. This time around I'm attempting to keep the temps more consistent and with less spread. I've read recommendations about temps staying around 80 in day and 70 at night or at least not being allowed to swing more than 20 degrees between day and night. I'm not sure if there's a need to have different temps between day and night or if it's just a common thing given the relationship between heat and light but I'm hoping I've got my temps set to hover between 70 and 80 degrees 24 hours a day so the temps will swing 10 degrees but max at 80 and bottom at 70. Hopfully this will be advantageous.
- low humidity continues to prove to produce high frost. I've never endeavored to hit humidity points in flower aside from avoiding humidity of 70% or higher. At that point I can't control odor or keep things discreet enough.
- keeping the pots elevated above the drip trays so that all water always runs straight through was a winning test.
- multiple strains flowering simultaneously can add difficulty if the plants requirements change.
Drying has been kicking my butt. There is no replacement for a quality hygrometer, or 10. I've been successfully drying so far I think but I stress over it so hard because I don't want to screw it up. I keep thinking that everything is too dried but then I'll steal a little nug and chop it up and notice it's still plenty moist inside so I just need to keep burping and sealing still I think. Problem is knowing how high the humidity is getting and whether or not burping is necessary. If I could keep 'em sealed up worry free, I'd be a lot happier.
Any good tips? Does anyone out there in forum land have thoughts on how picky or particular or cautious I should be or thoughts on how careful you are? I've read that a cure is so important but that people think they're curing when they've over dried their product and the "cure" they think they're getting isn't really happening at all? Is there actually a magic dryness? Is there a range that would afford some wiggle room in the process? I don't personally see how you could reach a point of being 'too dry to cure properly' because the "cure" is a breakdown of chlorophyll and a maturing of turpenes and CBN to THC or something along those lines so would that require moisture? I can understand drying slowly but that's a separate process isn't it? I've read posts to no end and now that I've gone through the process a few times, I'm trying to reconcile experience with research and disinformation. I'm finding I have more questions than answers!