Blue Mystic 6weeks/3days, Gray/Brown Isolated Patches [Sugar Leaves]

[Duggy]

Yes mate, once in bloom full dose of calmag is appropriate...

 

[mr plantas]

Yes mate, once in bloom full dose of calmag is appropriate...

Cool, glad to learn that, didn't know that! I'll do that at next watering here in 4 days or so. Thanks again

 

[Waira]

Mr. Plantas-- I think it's a less typical manifestation of P defc,... your in-pot pH, 6.6? I ask in part because of OF being really spotty for quality control, often badly acidic soil,... looks like you got lucky, there are no other symptoms indication badly off pH so far,... looking at your nutes and feed rates, and her stage, i'd say you have a simple lack-of P defc. here... Have you noted how low the NPK #'s are on Big Bloom? --decimals,... so it's great stuff, but so mild, I DQ it as w true fertilizer, more like a tasty supplement,... the Tiger Bloom is what you need to elevate, and get the PK inputs up, 1tsp/gal and see how she reacts,... It has a fair amount of N in it too, so you can skip the Grow now.. looking at the leaves, nary a yellow one yet, so she seems stocked up on N well enough,... also consider using a bloom booster (fat PK#'s) as an occasional alternate to Tiger, diluted of course,.. no small danger in burning with such fert's, but done right, it can blow the buds up amazingly! ...yes on full strength Ca-Mg too, since you're using Di water with no CaCO3 in there, and hence, no pH buffering capacity,....

 

[DreadHeadiez]

Mr. Plantas-- I think it's a less typical manifestation of P defc,... your in-pot pH, 6.6? I ask in part because of OF being really spotty for quality control, often badly acidic soil,... looks like you got lucky, there are no other symptoms indication badly off pH so far,... looking at your nutes and feed rates, and her stage, i'd say you have a simple lack-of P defc. here... Have you noted how low the NPK #'s are on Big Bloom? --decimals,... so it's great stuff, but so mild, I DQ it as w true fertilizer, more like a tasty supplement,... the Tiger Bloom is what you need to elevate, and get the PK inputs up, 1tsp/gal and see how she reacts,... It has a fair amount of N in it too, so you can skip the Grow now.. looking at the leaves, nary a yellow one yet, so she seems stocked up on N well enough,... also consider using a bloom booster (fat PK#'s) as an occasional alternate to Tiger, diluted of course,.. no small danger in burning with such fert's, but done right, it can blow the buds up amazingly! ...yes on full strength Ca-Mg too, since you're using Di water with no CaCO3 in there, and hence, no pH buffering capacity,....

Love reading your replies. Expands my knowledge every time .

I made the switch to Roots Organics soil due to the QC issues with OF

 

[mr plantas]

Mr. Plantas-- I think it's a less typical manifestation of P defc,... your in-pot pH, 6.6? I ask in part because of OF being really spotty for quality control, often badly acidic soil,... looks like you got lucky, there are no other symptoms indication badly off pH so far,... looking at your nutes and feed rates, and her stage, i'd say you have a simple lack-of P defc. here... Have you noted how low the NPK #'s are on Big Bloom? --decimals,... so it's great stuff, but so mild, I DQ it as w true fertilizer, more like a tasty supplement,... the Tiger Bloom is what you need to elevate, and get the PK inputs up, 1tsp/gal and see how she reacts,... It has a fair amount of N in it too, so you can skip the Grow now.. looking at the leaves, nary a yellow one yet, so she seems stocked up on N well enough,... also consider using a bloom booster (fat PK#'s) as an occasional alternate to Tiger, diluted of course,.. no small danger in burning with such fert's, but done right, it can blow the buds up amazingly! ...yes on full strength Ca-Mg too, since you're using Di water with no CaCO3 in there, and hence, no pH buffering capacity,....

Ayee Waira, thanks for the reply brother, appreciate that.

Thanks for the well thought out response. Yeah, not entirely sure why I'd thought diluting BigBloom down was a 'good idea', since it's within decimals already at normal dosages. Guess it didn't hurt lol. Will probably end up just doing full strength on the BigBloom, then go up to 1 teaspoon on TigerBloom, also 1 teaspoon on the CalMag. I'll definitely consider looking into bloom boosters and do a bit of reading up!

Any more issues I'll be sure to post it. I know I probably sound like a broken record but thanks again to everyone that responded. Love the knowledge. Cheers!

 

[mr plantas]

So, I checked the soil and its only been 60 hours or so and the top 1-1.5 inch/es of soil was bone dry. Drinkin fast

Mixed up a gallon of distilled water with 1 teaspoon of CaliMagic CalMag, 3 tablespoons of BigBloom and 1 filled-to-the-brim teaspoon of TigerBloom, so all in all this mix should take care of the issue, plus provide some other goodies. She took nearly 2L+ of the jug before there was continual runoff. :smoking:

I'll keep things updated.

 

[mr plantas]

So, fed them lastnight [see above post], conditions are the same [temp, RH, same water], none of the brown spots have spread, though now surrounding these spots are a slightly yellow perimeter? This definitely happened overnight because it wasn't there the day prior. Not sure what this could be? Any possible info that's needed I'll try to provide. @Waira or anyone that could offer some insight I'd appreciate it.

I can't tell if this deficiency is still running its course and nutes in the last 24 hours hasn't been long enough for a response? Sorry, just a noob trying to learn everything I can about the canna.

Checked the pH again with my soil test kit and it came out identical in color to the previous time before these latest nutes [pH 6.6-6.8 according to the color chart]



First pic is in normal lighting though a bit shaded - the yellow is kinda hard to see. The following pics after that highlight it a bit better under fluoro.

edit: Also I forgot to add - those brown/gray spots had definitely turned a more 'rust/brown' color overnight also in addition to the yellowing.

 

[Sensi Jay]

Mr P, that gal looking healthy IMO. I think this spotting is something the BM is predisposed to, did exact same thing on mine and I'm running biotabs with full supplements.

I've read elsewhere this is in fact nute toxicity, which made sense with mine as tips were showing overfeeding in addition to the spots:

If it's got worse since you upped the nutes and you seeing yellow tip ends, then you shouldn't be upping the feeds and should just ride it out for week or so and see how she fares.

 

[mr plantas]

Mr P, that gal looking healthy IMO. I think this spotting is something the BM is predisposed to, did exact same thing on mine and I'm running biotabs with full supplements.

I've read elsewhere this is in fact nute toxicity, which made sense with mine as tips were showing overfeeding in addition to the spots:

View attachment 796473

If it's got worse since you upped the nutes and you seeing yellow tip ends, then you shouldn't be upping the feeds and should just ride it out for week or so and see how she fares.

Thank you for the help, I appreciate that man.

I keep thinking it's a calcium issue, since the dosage I was using prior to going to a full teaspoon probably didn't do a whole lot for it earlier on before this had started, and finally upping the calmag 2 days ago to a full teaspoon - I'm probably jumping the gun on this and should probably just give it a couple more days to see if the increased calmag dosage takes effect and nothing more of the rust/brown spots spreads. I'll keep my eye on it today. Plus this 600w viparspectra and the whole issue of me having had the lights too close early on - causing heat stress, and could've possibly set calcium deficiency into motion.

I hope it's not any sort of toxicity, as much of the dosages I'd been using [grow big, big bloom, tigerbloom] have been relatively small compared to most people I've seen. Genetics can throw some hurdles sometimes [like you mentioned] [I know from the good ol' world of cacti] - that's for sure, so who knows - maybe it is somewhat predisposed to sensitivity of [specific] nutes? Honestly I have no idea haha.

On a sidenote the increase in TigerBloom from 1/2 teaspoon to 1 teaspoon didn't seem to cause any issue so far, so maybe I should try increasing the TigerBloom from 1 teaspoon to 1.5 teaspoons here in a couple waterings from now.

I will say that without doubt cannabis will test your greenthumb.. Columnar cactus are soo much easier in many ways, just do soil mix - set - forget - water once/week, monitor every so often.

Definitely taking everyones advice seriously though - much more experienced than myself with the canna.

Thanks again brother!

 

[mr plantas]

Well, broke out the rest of my soil test kit - N/P/K. Mainly wanted to do this to get a rough estimate on the P levels, just to have some sort of semblance as to where I'm at and if I'm on the right track. Yayy for science'n!



:scope:

First step was to go down roughly 2 inches into the soil, near the middle of the pot, dig up about a good-sized teaspoon's worth. Put the collected soil into a small cup or glass dish, do 1 part soil to 4 parts distilled water. Stirred solution thoroughly for 5 minutes or so, letting sit overnight. The next morning - all the insoluble soil-matter has sunken to the bottom, while the saturated solution of nutrients is suspended above. You're essentially doing a polar-pull[i.e: polar wash] from the insoluble plant matter - with the nutes being soluble in the polar solution [water]. Used the small disposable pipette to draw up the top solution, filling each test tube up til the 4th line.

Next, break each colored-respective capsule open, adding each capsule of reagent to the respective tube. Green cap - N, Purple cap - P, Orange cap - K. Take each tube, cap it and shake vigorously for 1-2 minutes, then allowing for 5-10 minutes for a full reaction, displaying the proper color gradient per the handy-dandy chart that was given.

The pictures show a rough estimate of the situation - N- High, P High, K Med-High/High. Not sure what these levels mean in relation to everything else that can be said about nutrient concentrations, though it does give a nice general direction on things. Not bad for $10. You also get hundreds of reactionary capsules for each nutrient, so you could do hundreds of reactions, and same goes for the pH capsules. It does help to a degree when it comes down to narrowing the issues.

Last pic is showing the pH I had gotten yesterday, the color on the chart that shows the baby-shit-puke-green, it was spot on with that color.

Cheers guys