Grow Mediums Attempting 2nd Grow for the 4th time :)

I am about 99% sure it is a Cal deficiency, based on what I know and the info below I think we can go ahead and confirm a Cal deficiency. The rust colored spots on page 19 are the same as the ones in this post pic #1 and #2.

Calcium deficiency

Calcium (Ca) deficiency
is a plant disorder that can be caused by insufficient calcium in the growing medium, but is more frequently a product of low transpiration of the whole plant or more commonly the affected tissue. Plants are susceptible to such localized calcium deficiencies in low or non transpiring tissues because calcium is not transported in the phloem. This may be due to water shortages, which slow the transportation of calcium to the plant, or can be caused by excessive usage of potassium or nitrogen fertilizers.


Problems with Calcium being locked out by PH troubles

Very acidic soils with excessive potassium, dry and or wet soil. Lack of calcium in the soil may cause too acidic soil. This may cause to Mg or Iron deficiency or very slow stunted growth


Soil


Calcium gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 2.0- 6.4
Calcium is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 6.5-9.1 (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph of over 7.0 in soil) anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a
Calcium Deficiency.


Hydro and Soil less Mediums

Calcium gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 2.0- 5.3
Calcium is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 5.4-5.8 (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Calcium Deficiency.



Causes
Soils that are acidic, sandy, or coarse often contain less calcium. Uneven soil moisture and over use of fertilizers can also cause calcium deficiency. At times, even when there is a lot of calcium in the soil, the calcium can be in an insoluble form and is then unusable by the plant. Soils containing high phosphorus are particularly susceptible to creating insoluble forms of calcium.

This may be due to water shortages, which slow the transportation of calcium to the plant, or can be caused by excessive usage of potassium or nitrogen fertilizers.

Calcium deficiency symptoms appear initially as localized tissue necrosis leading to stunted plant growth, necrotic leaf margins on young leaves or curling of the leaves, and eventual death of terminal buds and root tips. Generally the new growth and rapidly growing tissues of the plant are affected first. The mature leaves are rarely if ever affected because calcium accumulates to high concentrations in older leaves.



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Here is what it has about MG def

Magnesium (Mg) deficiency

Magnesium (Mg) deficiency
is a detrimental plant disorder that occurs most often in strongly acidic, light, sandy soils, where magnesium can be easily leached away. Magnesium is an essential macronutrient found from 0.2-0.4% dry matter and is necessary for normal plant growth.
Excess potassium, generally due to fertilizers, further aggravates the stress from the magnesium deficiency.

Magnesium has an important role in photosynthesis because it forms the central atom of chlorophyll.[1] Therefore, without sufficient amounts of magnesium, plants begin to degrade the chlorophyll in the old leaves. This causes the main symptom of magnesium deficiency, chlorosis, or yellowing between leaf veins, which stay green, giving the leaves a marbled appearance. Due to magnesium’s mobile nature, the plant will first break down chlorophyll in older leaves and transport the Mg to younger leaves which have greater photosynthetic needs. Therefore, the first sign of magnesium deficiency is the chlorosis of old leaves which progresses to the young leaves as the deficiency continues. Magnesium also is a necessary activator for many critical enzymes, including ribulosbiphosphate carboxylase (RuBisCO) and phosphoenolpyruvate carboxylase (PEP), both essential enzymes in carbon fixation. Thus low amounts of Mg lead to a decrease in photosynthetic and enzymatic activity within the plants. Magnesium is also crucial in stabilizing ribosome structures, hence, a lack of magnesium causes depolymerization of ribosomes leading to pre-mature aging of the plant. After prolonged magnesium deficiency, necrosis and dropping of older leaves occurs. Plants deficient in magnesium also produce smaller, woodier fruits.
Magnesium deficiency may be confused with zinc or chlorine deficiencies, viruses, or natural aging since all have similar symptoms. Adding Epsom salts (diluted to 8.5 oz. per 2.2 gal. of water) or crushed dolomitic limestone to the soil can rectify magnesium deficiencies. For a more organic solution, applying home-made compost mulch can prevent leaching during excessive rainfall and provide plants with sufficient amounts of nutrients, including magnesium.

Problems with Magnesium being locked out by PH troubles

Light Acid Soils, soils with excessive potassium, calcium and or phosphorus


Soil

Magnesium gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 2.0-6.4
Magnesium is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 6.5-9.1 . (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph of over 7.0 in soil) anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Magnesium deficiency.



Hydro and Soil less Mediums

Magnesium gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 2.0-5.7
Magnesium is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 5.8-9.1
(Wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Magnesium deficiency

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which to me it doesn't look like your plant has
 
I just noticed when I go through journals on here and other forums I sometimes see people running full steam or running licas full steam so they say and I'm thinking how the hell can that be.lol

When I get home I'll pick a few leaves at random hit then uo close with the flash on so we can be sure.


The issue @derek420colorado is if I up the calmag from 2ml back to 5ml or higher it's going to make my ppms shoot up. As u saw from my breakdown I'm at 800ppm and I'm pushing it there....when I started getting the calmag deficiency if that's what it is I was running 5ml of veg and 5ml of calmag I would of thought 5ml of calmag would of been plenty
 
Don't use Calmag use domolite lime( think that is what it is called) or any other calcium only supplement as I do not think this will up your ppms as much. I am pretty sure you don't have to use near as much of that as you do CalMag, because the thing is the reason everyone usually has a Cal and Mag problem is because a Cal def can lead to a Mag def so if you take care of the first the second should clear on up.
 
Don't use Calmag use domolite lime( think that is what it is called) or any other calcium only supplement as I do not think this will up your ppms as much. I am pretty sure you don't have to use near as much of that as you do CalMag, because the thing is the reason everyone usually has a Cal and Mag problem is because a Cal def can lead to a Mag def so if you take care of the first the second should clear on up.
I have pellet ed dolomite lime but id have no idea how to administer that. Check below for pics

Day45 with pics
Ppm 800
Ph 5.7
Temp 77
Rez 70
Humidity 42


4 gallons of ro water. 0ppm
3ml per gallon of bloom. 620 ppm
2ml per gallon calimagic 170ppm
1ml per gallon koolbloom. 10ppm
2ml per gallon hydroguard
Per gallon n-p-k
14N--34P--31K per gallon
No noticeable signs of water uptake in the last 5 hours. A little nervous of that @derek420colorado @HotBunz here is a link to a video I made u will see purple stems yellowing leaves yellow and brown tips and brown spots. Feel free to help me.
 
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I just don't know guys.....her roots look mushy and I don't see any new white roots , it's been 7 hours and the water level hasn't gone down my ph went from being completely stable to shooting up to 6.2 every couple of hours.....sigh I really fucked her up I think. If she won't drink she won't cure herself
 
Damn man. I dunno what feeding schedule you are using but are you sure you should be cutting out the micro nutes bottle? I'd love to see a picture of the roots now. If that isn't a cal/mag problem I would guess and say root rot. There looks like so many things going on with her at once and you mention the ph spiking a bunch. I swear that's what happened to my first dwc plant but I was further along in flower and it was a photoperiod. I could be wrong, I hope i'm wrong tbh because root rot with res temps of 70* sounds unfair and scary and i'm about to go lower the temp on my res now lol. I hope you get it figured out man.


I suggest you check out lucas formula and try cutting the ratio in half for auto flowers. 6/9 micro/bloom per gal I think or something like that.
 
Damn man. I dunno what feeding schedule you are using but are you sure you should be cutting out the micro nutes bottle? I'd love to see a picture of the roots now. If that isn't a cal/mag problem I would guess and say root rot. There looks like so many things going on with her at once and you mention the ph spiking a bunch. I swear that's what happened to my first dwc plant but I was further along in flower and it was a photoperiod. I could be wrong, I hope i'm wrong tbh because root rot with res temps of 70* sounds unfair and scary and i'm about to go lower the temp on my res now lol. I hope you get it figured out man.


I suggest you check out lucas formula and try cutting the ratio in half for auto flowers. 6/9 micro/bloom per gal I think or something like that.

He is using the FloraNova line thus there is no Micro . Safe to say his current root problem was brought on by sitting the plant in a bucket of ClearRez and not the bucket temps. My bucket temps are well into the 80's with no slime issues using Hydroguard. For those that don't know ClearRez is really nothing more than swimming pool shock!
 
He is using the FloraNova line thus there is no Micro . Safe to say his current root problem was brought on by sitting the plant in a bucket of ClearRez and not the bucket temps. My bucket temps are well into the 80's with no slime issues using Hydroguard. For those that don't know ClearRez is really nothing more than swimming pool shock!

Ahh I thought he was using GH flora series for some reason. Damn hydroguard must be a lot better than DM zone. I ran Zone with temps of like 75 and I got the rot right at the tail end of my grow. Is clear rez similar to DM zone? Did he sit the plant in a "hot" solution of it? you would think a normal dose wouldn't ruin his plant.
 
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