Grow Room 3D Printing Parts

[American Hillbilly]

This is my first iteration, it was a direct replacement for a similar set up I had made out of plywood. As with anything I'll probably change this a few times before I am pleased with it. I'm also going to design a hard mount version.

What do you think?

 

[TrichomeAssassin]

Got to love DIY. Good job so far.

 

[Bob's Auto's]

Nice one. Maybe design some sort of clip to attach the sensors when not in use?
Something like this maybe?

Customisable Latching Broom Holder by GregFrost

This thing is a great example of something useful you can do with your printer. It allows you to hang any broom or rake like object using a convenient click in, click out latch. This youtube video shows and example of one in action mounting a rake...

www.thingiverse.com

 

[American Hillbilly]

Nice one. Maybe design some sort of clip to attach the sensors when not in use?
Something like this maybe?

Customisable Latching Broom Holder by GregFrost

This thing is a great example of something useful you can do with your printer. It allows you to hang any broom or rake like object using a convenient click in, click out latch. This youtube video shows and example of one in action mounting a rake...

www.thingiverse.com

That is a cool design. Yes, I would like to ditch the zip tie/wire tie method, thanks for sharing the link to that! Looks like that would also work for attachment to the poles of the tent!

 

[American Hillbilly]

My current irrigation manifold is a bunch of PVC pieces and fittings, with a NC Solenoid screwed on the inlet end. Modeling the replacement was pretty simple, but getting it to print correctly and add threads was a challenge! Note this is just a prototype, as PLA won't be suitable for the conditions as it is biodegradeable. I have a spool of ASA on hand when I am satisfied I have exactly what I want

Here it is how it comes out of the printer. The orientation and supports allow all the structures to print without sagging or layer issues.

Here you will see while the threads are functional, they will require chasing with a tap or a lot of force to get them in. I'll be chasing these with a tap for the sake of learning. Threads are 1/2 NPT. I will also be trying a model with 1/4 NPT holes that I will cut threads in myself. Printing on a fine enough scale to print 1/4 NPT threads would probably double the time it took to print the model, but if time allows I may try it. I want to compare cut threads with chased threads for quality, I am assuming chased threads will be stronger. Inlet will stay 1/2 NPT as that is what my Solenoid requires.

And here you can see the reason for the shape. I will make a minor change here to increase the interference fit. While this snaps onto PCV I use for SCROG nicely, with the added weight of a functional piece I may require a more secure fit.

There is some post processing work cleaning up the surface from the supports, which I did not do. A razor blade and some fine sand paper will make quick work of the left over material from the supports and give it a good surface finish. For the first try I am quite pleased.

 

[American Hillbilly]

I've been all over the place as of lately. Changing nozzle sizes, and experimenting with settings and filaments. More failures than successes but that is part of the learning curve, and I am enjoying ever minute.

So far, I have come to the conclusion that its a waste of time for me to 3D print pipe threads. The layer height and time required to print the threads make the prints take forever. I have opted to go to a larger nozzle size with thicker layer height, and tap the threads. I am also currently testing multiple filament types. I've done some research and it seems PLA (red and green in photos), while being biodegradable, isn't quite as easy broken down as one may think. So were going to see just how long it lasts compared to ASA (orange) or PETG (not pictured).

I still have a lot to learn, but here are some more photos.

This is currently in use and works perfectly. After many iterations and lots of broken parts, I finally got the to something I was happy with, and by tapping threads I was able to skip right to 1/8 pipe and still have reasonable print times. This was also my first attempt at Vapor Smoothing a part, both ASA and ABS can be smoothed with Acetone which gives it a superior finish inside and out. The last photo is a picture of the PCV manifold it replaced that I have been using for quite some time now. This new manifold snaps right into place on 1/2 PVC pipe and requires no supports, so no more kicking this thing around the bottom of the tent.

This is for my test of PLA. You can see the ASA printed ring which is based on a 6" diameter circle, and the PLA printed rings which are based on a 5" diameter circle. Again, I was able to print these relatively fast without threads. The posts snap onto the rings securely and should offer good support. I did not print holes in the bottom, as I am going to drill various patterns and sizes to see what works best, then I will add holes to the models in the appropriate spots.

I currently use hose I drill holes in and T connectors, so these will be a nice addition. I purchased something similar off Amazon years ago, but they were extremely low quality and required a lot of modification. they also cost 10$ a piece when purchased! I can print 4 of these and purchase the fittings for less than the cost of 1 from Amazon and look way better with the quick connects.

I will have PLA both exposed to nutrient solution, and to the conditions below the surface of the growing medium (all those microbes), so I will get a good idea just how biodegradable it is. If PLA is a viable solution for 3D printed parts in this application, that would be good for many end users who don't have enclosed or heated 3D printers capable of using engineering grade filaments.

I also am not satisfied at all with my pulse mount. While it works acceptably, I wasn't really putting my best foot forward with the design. I am now working on a "Gazebo" style mount that will be centered in the middle of the grow space, that mounts above the scrog netting and is adjustable for height. It will be open, have a sun shade, and give what I feel will be a more accurate reading of the conditions in the middle of the space.

More on that, when there is something to share.