Indoor 1st Mephisto grow...dwc & coco

[davisgirl]

Yea...that 2700k cob is beautiful when lit. It's the closest to a genuine HPS I've ever seen. You can run those suckers closer to the canopy & get yields that 3500k just can't produce.

 

[Dublegendz]

Day 19...both are showing good growth. Ripley has faster node growth but obviously i had a deficiency that i wasn't able to fix completely with the last res change which was about 420ppm. I'm aerating for 24hrs a new nute solution that's closer to 600ppm & includes Floralicious +

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• Dublegendz
• Dec 17, 2018

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• Dublegendz
• Dec 17, 2018

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• Dublegendz
• Dec 17, 2018

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• Dublegendz
• Dec 17, 2018

 

[davisgirl]

Amazing growth in just 3 days. Love the Mylar lines bucket.

 

[Dublegendz]

2 new arrivals today join their Samsquanch sibling who's a week older but not doing much of anything...just sitting there smiling like the midget (vertically challenged)she is.

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• Dublegendz
• Dec 17, 2018

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• Dublegendz
• Dec 17, 2018

 

[Dublegendz]

Day 25...Walter is healthy in coco @ 550ppm feed. I'm gonna up it to 750ppm & start adding Floralicious+ to the regiment.

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• Dublegendz
• Dec 22, 2018

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• Dublegendz
• Dec 22, 2018

The dwc bucket is a whole different issue. Roots are looking great...pearly white w/just a hint of nute color. Although some roots have wrapped around my air lines making it impossible to pull out the netpot for a res change unless i start pulling on the roots to untangle them. Any ideas? I just don't like the idea of handling the roots but i could be wrong...

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• Dublegendz
• Dec 22, 2018

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• Dublegendz
• Dec 22, 2018

Then there's this continual deficiency problem. Every set of fan leaves have had it so I've been removing the dead leaves as i go. She looks naked but a lot better than with crusty burnt leaves everywhere

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• Dublegendz
• Dec 22, 2018

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• Dublegendz
• Dec 22, 2018

 

[davisgirl]

I had a very similar problem with my dwc girls at this age. The first thing you need to do with your Dwc girl is get and then keep tight control of your ph.

This means -

• Start with a ph meter, either a cheap one or an expensive one. Then get a cheap backup.
• Read the ph meter instructions carefully. Follow all the directions to the letter. Rinse well after use, and store in the proper solution. Don’t let it dry out.
• Get calibration solution. Follow the directions for calibration. Calibrate frequently.
• Keep your ph between 5.5 and 6.5. I like to set the reservoir at 5.8. It tends to drift up. I’ll let it go to about 6.25, then adjust it back down to 5.8. Other people use other numbers, but that works for me. In the off chance my meter is off and I haven’t discovered that yet, I have a little 0.25 tolerance.

PH is a big deal in hydro. It seems scary and complicated at first. Most people shy away from hydro at first because of this. But after a bit, you become familiar with your equipment and develop a sixth sense about when your pH meter may be off.

The second factor you need to control is water quality. What is your source water, what ppm and what pH? Are you treating for chlorine and/or chloramine? Starting water is huge. My starting water is horrendous, 320 ppm and chlorine. I treat it with ascorbic acid. Eventually I’ll install a RO filter and sweeten the source but until then it factors in what I do with the ladies.

The third issue is cal mag. What kind are you using? What is the recommended dose? What dose do you use? My plants developed a similar looking problem at that age. The solution ended up being tight disciplined pH control and lots of calmag. Haven’t had a problem since.

Is this the nutrient schedule you are using? Are you using anything else? If you are adding calmag, add it first. If you are adjusting the nutrient strength, keep the same proportions: if you go half strength on one, go half strength on them all. With the possible exception of calmag.

I hope some of this helps and doesn’t just confuse you. I am a new grower and not an expert, but these are the hard lessons I learned when I hit the DWC snag. Just the one so far LOL.

 

[Iriee Vibez]

What she said!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

 

[Dublegendz]

I had a very similar problem with my dwc girls at this age. The first thing you need to do with your Dwc girl is get and then keep tight control of your ph.

This means -

• Start with a ph meter, either a cheap one or an expensive one. Then get a cheap backup.
• Read the ph meter instructions carefully. Follow all the directions to the letter. Rinse well after use, and store in the proper solution. Don’t let it dry out.
• Get calibration solution. Follow the directions for calibration. Calibrate frequently.
• Keep your ph between 5.5 and 6.5. I like to set the reservoir at 5.8. It tends to drift up. I’ll let it go to about 6.25, then adjust it back down to 5.8. Other people use other numbers, but that works for me. In the off chance my meter is off and I haven’t discovered that yet, I have a little 0.25 tolerance.

PH is a big deal in hydro. It seems scary and complicated at first. Most people shy away from hydro at first because of this. But after a bit, you become familiar with your equipment and develop a sixth sense about when your pH meter may be off.

The second factor you need to control is water quality. What is your source water, what ppm and what pH? Are you treating for chlorine and/or chloramine? Starting water is huge. My starting water is horrendous, 320 ppm and chlorine. I treat it with ascorbic acid. Eventually I’ll install a RO filter and sweeten the source but until then it factors in what I do with the ladies.

The third issue is cal mag. What kind are you using? What is the recommended dose? What dose do you use? My plants developed a similar looking problem at that age. The solution ended up being tight disciplined pH control and lots of calmag. Haven’t had a problem since.

Is this the nutrient schedule you are using? Are you using anything else? If you are adding calmag, add it first. If you are adjusting the nutrient strength, keep the same proportions: if you go half strength on one, go half strength on them all. With the possible exception of calmag.
View attachment 990410

I hope some of this helps and doesn’t just confuse you. I am a new grower and not an expert, but these are the hard lessons I learned when I hit the DWC snag. Just the one so far LOL.

I check my ph about 6 times a day & keep it between 5.8-6.2. I use GH CaliMagic @ 3ml/gal. I dont have a backup meter but it's calibrated & stored with electrode solution. The deficiencies are only affecting the older leaves...new growth seems ok. I'd not be so concerned if the coco plant next to it wasn't so healthy. It's making my dwc baby look worse

 

[Dublegendz]

According to my feeding journals...Hydroguard, Rapidstart & Floralicious+ dont add much ppm. The vast majority of dissolved solids comes from the calmag & grow nutes.

 

[davisgirl]

According to my feeding journals...Hydroguard, Rapidstart & Floralicious+ dont add much ppm. The vast majority of dissolved solids comes from the calmag & grow nutes.

Awesome! It sounds like you’ve got pH firmly under control, and that’s more than half the battle. The rest is easy. Look at your water, nutrient strength, and especially cal mag strength.

LEDs increase calmag needs. Not sure what the science is behind it, but LED/calmag issues go hand in hand. Here are a few pics from when my ladies were ailing. I ended up clamping down on the pH and really increasing the calmag dose. I also made sure my roots were never exposed more than an inch to the air below the netpot. And lastly, let the pH drift the entire range from 5.75 to 6.25. There are a few sweet spots in there for different nutrient uptake. Hope this helps.