Keeping it simple requires not stressing over it. I'm gonna' say something here that many might disagree with, but it makes sense to me. When you're flushing, there's no need to adjust PH (during grow, not towards harvest time) I look at it like this. When you're flushing a plant that has too many nutes (the plant is showing signs of stress from toxicity) the last thing that seems logical to me is adjusting the PH so that the plant can take in more. When flushing at this point, you're just trying to remove salt build up/nutes. Towards end of life, PH would matter, because you'd want the stored nutes going to the flowers. I'd water slowly, I see a lot of people just dump water in the pot and walk away. I'll water my plant 3-5 times before it's fully watered, this happens within 3-5 minutes. I like to let the water have time to expand through the medium, then water a little more. It might take me a lot longer, but in between there's time to do other task.
New Grower First plants Clawing and Discoloration day 23
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Thank you for your continued help, I will not flush, I ordered the micro blast but it will not be here until oct 9th, even with fast shipping, can they make it that long?
i was wondering if you think I should add any cal mag or other nutrients for the yellowing/brown spots or if I should continue plain water?
I also was curious if my half gallon per feeding in 5 gallon pots was enough, should I be using a full gallon or even 1.25 gallons per pot? I was not watering till run off until a week or so ago when the plants gained some heft, I was thinking maybe it was a bit under watered from that maybe?
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No do not add anything to the pot other than PHed water because I think the problem you have is too much fertilizer in there already. Never add a single element to the pot always feed your full nutrient blend on the fertigation day and at that time add any additional elements but never exceed the limits for that element.
In order for your nutrients to be in balance the elements available to the plants need to be in the range for each nutrient below.
Lets talk about calcium with fictitious numbers. Lets say your water starts out with 60 PPM and your base nutrients add 40 ppm but you think you need extra. The most you want to add is 40 PPM for a total of 140 PPM If you go over that you risk locking out Magnesium and Potassium.
Now lets say you add just Cal-Mag to the pot. Elements do not mix in a medium like they would in a tank of water. They simply wash away the other elements and now they represent about 100% of what is presented to the roots and BAM a lock-out which looks like a deficiency and so you add more and then your plants really suffer
. Learn about Liebig's Law of the Minimum to help understand keeping your elements in balance.
Go to a local store and get some Kelp and Fulvic acid or humic acid ASAP This is what I use but any brand should work. You just need a tiny bit. Mix it in distilled water and add some surfactant. Waiting 6 days is a long time in an auto's life.
What you need to learn about watering will come with practice. Here are the basic rules: Never let the soil dry out. Soil and or coco can become hydrophobic if allowed to dry. This means it repels water. This in turn will create dry pockets in the soil and roots there will die. If your soil - coco have accidentally dried out use a surfactant to help re-wet it. I like yucca powder. Don't let soil remain soggy by watering too much too often. Root rot, damping off, molds, fungus gnats and other problems start in soggy soil. When you do water water the entire pot. How to learn when to water starts before you plant the seed. Fill your container with fresh soil/coco and weigh it (heft it) this is the lightest weight and consider it a dry pot. Now slowly water until the soil/coco will no longer absorb the water and run-off begins; weigh the pot (heft it) this is the maximum water, the wettest the pot can get. The difference between wettest and driest is the maximum water weight, for ease of explanation lets just say the water weighs 20 pounds. When the pot loses 10 pounds (half of the water weight) it is time to water again. There is an art to watering.
In order for your nutrients to be in balance the elements available to the plants need to be in the range for each nutrient below.
Lets talk about calcium with fictitious numbers. Lets say your water starts out with 60 PPM and your base nutrients add 40 ppm but you think you need extra. The most you want to add is 40 PPM for a total of 140 PPM If you go over that you risk locking out Magnesium and Potassium.
Now lets say you add just Cal-Mag to the pot. Elements do not mix in a medium like they would in a tank of water. They simply wash away the other elements and now they represent about 100% of what is presented to the roots and BAM a lock-out which looks like a deficiency and so you add more and then your plants really suffer
. Learn about Liebig's Law of the Minimum to help understand keeping your elements in balance.Go to a local store and get some Kelp and Fulvic acid or humic acid ASAP This is what I use but any brand should work. You just need a tiny bit. Mix it in distilled water and add some surfactant. Waiting 6 days is a long time in an auto's life.
What you need to learn about watering will come with practice. Here are the basic rules: Never let the soil dry out. Soil and or coco can become hydrophobic if allowed to dry. This means it repels water. This in turn will create dry pockets in the soil and roots there will die. If your soil - coco have accidentally dried out use a surfactant to help re-wet it. I like yucca powder. Don't let soil remain soggy by watering too much too often. Root rot, damping off, molds, fungus gnats and other problems start in soggy soil. When you do water water the entire pot. How to learn when to water starts before you plant the seed. Fill your container with fresh soil/coco and weigh it (heft it) this is the lightest weight and consider it a dry pot. Now slowly water until the soil/coco will no longer absorb the water and run-off begins; weigh the pot (heft it) this is the maximum water, the wettest the pot can get. The difference between wettest and driest is the maximum water weight, for ease of explanation lets just say the water weighs 20 pounds. When the pot loses 10 pounds (half of the water weight) it is time to water again. There is an art to watering.
No do not add anything to the pot other than PHed water because I think the problem you have is too much fertilizer in there already. Never add a single element to the pot always feed your full nutrient blend on the fertigation day and at that time add any additional elements but never exceed the limits for that element.
In order for your nutrients to be in balance the elements available to the plants need to be in the range for each nutrient below.
View attachment 1239527
Lets talk about calcium with fictitious numbers. Lets say your water starts out with 60 PPM and your base nutrients add 40 ppm but you think you need extra. The most you want to add is 40 PPM for a total of 140 PPM If you go over that you risk locking out Magnesium and Potassium.
View attachment 1239528
Now lets say you add just Cal-Mag to the pot. Elements do not mix in a medium like they would in a tank of water. They simply wash away the other elements and now they represent about 100% of what is presented to the roots and BAM a lock-out which looks like a deficiency and so you add more and then your plants really suffer
Go to a local store and get some Kelp and Fulvic acid or humic acid ASAP This is what I use but any brand should work. You just need a tiny bit. Mix it in distilled water and add some surfactant. Waiting 6 days is a long time in an auto's life.
View attachment 1239524View attachment 1239525View attachment 1239526
What you need to learn about watering will come with practice. Here are the basic rules: Never let the soil dry out. Soil and or coco can become hydrophobic if allowed to dry. This means it repels water. This in turn will create dry pockets in the soil and roots there will die. If your soil - coco have accidentally dried out use a surfactant to help re-wet it. I like yucca powder. Don't let soil remain soggy by watering too much too often. Root rot, damping off, molds, fungus gnats and other problems start in soggy soil. When you do water water the entire pot. How to learn when to water starts before you plant the seed. Fill your container with fresh soil/coco and weigh it (heft it) this is the lightest weight and consider it a dry pot. Now slowly water until the soil/coco will no longer absorb the water and run-off begins; weigh the pot (heft it) this is the maximum water, the wettest the pot can get. The difference between wettest and driest is the maximum water weight, for ease of explanation lets just say the water weighs 20 pounds. When the pot loses 10 pounds (half of the water weight) it is time to water again. There is an art to watering.
I will follow that to a T, thanks Man O Green! I will start a grow journal today and post the old growth photos as well.
I called around and because I’m very rural the only place that said they have it is about 3 hours away, if I order this and over night it, would it be the right stuff? It says 5:2, I just want to make sure because the store I ordered the micro blast refunded my order and said it was out of stock.
Five:Two (Humic Acid:Kelp Extract Blend)
Compost Tea Brew Kits, Aerators, Brew Bags, and Biologicals
www.composttealab.com
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Perfect that is exactly what you want!I will follow that to a T, thanks Man O Green! I will start a grow journal today and post the old growth photos as well.
I called around and because I’m very rural the only place that said they have it is about 3 hours away, if I order this and over night it, would it be the right stuff? It says 5:2, I just want to make sure because the store I ordered the micro blast refunded my order and said it was out of stock.
Five:Two (Humic Acid:Kelp Extract Blend)
Compost Tea Brew Kits, Aerators, Brew Bags, and Biologicalswww.composttealab.com
heck yeah! I will get this overnighted and it should be here Monday or Tuesday, if my car was in better shape I would drive the 3 hours for sure, hopefully my babies will pull through this and keep flowering.
I want to thank you for your help and putting my mind at ease a bit I was really worried I would lose these genetics and mainly I need this as medicine and I cannot afford it, I have very bad seizures and bone cancer, so I’m trying to save some money, any amount is a good amount lol.
i found a store that has this brand :Super Seaweed Humic Fulvic Acid Blend- Soil Hume - Liquid Carbon - Simple Grow Solutions- Natural Lawn & Garden Concentrated Treatment- Increase Nutrient Uptake & Fertilizer Transfer (32 Ounce) Amazon product ASIN B07QPB5H63
Its
4.0% Seaweed
4.5% Humic Acid
4.0% Fulvic Acid
it says it is for lawns, but is it the same thing I was looking to order online? Thank you
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I think I would wait for the 5:2.
thanks for the advice I will wait on the 5:2, god forbid because of the shipping delays that have been going on, do you think 4-5 days without will kill my plants? It should be 1-2 business days with USPS express 1 day, but I know things have been taking longer.
sorry about all the questions, I’m just really worried I won’t get it in time and they will stop flowering or something
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Breath in , Breath out, preferably with a joint in hand. Your plants will be fine as long as you do not kill them with too much love
.Nutrient problems in soil are fairly slow. In fact most corrections will be slow............. New growers have a tendency to move too fast and end up overshooting the goal.
.Have distilled water on hand to make the foliar spray when the 5:2 comes. And a clean spray bottle. Then 2 hours after the lights come on turn them down to 50% or off if you don't have a dimmer. Wait a couple of minutes for the leaves to cool and then spray the plants good but not drenched. Turn the lights back up/on and you will be good to go
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