Yellow dots on leaves?

[KodakB]

If i understood correctly, you are using filtered water and the symptoms start appearing after u stop feeding calmag? Looks like a calcium deficiency to me, but the pattern of the yellow dots is intriguing... maybe genetics related (?)

 

[LearningMore]

@KodakB @AutoBobje @pop22
More pics. The first two plants I initially posted are Zkittlez ILGM. Here are some some up-close top and bottom leaf photos (Z). In the same tent is a Bruce Banner with a more localized brown area (BB), not the run of yellow. I also took pics of a plant in another tent that is 6days older, Gorilla Glue (GG) with spots similar to the Zkittlez, but more localized to lower leaves. I included the others as perhaps they’re more “typical” of something. Everyone gets the same nute plan.

I was giving low-dose CalMag about once a week (1-2ml/gal) but last dose was 3/20ish. I use tap water (rural town, drawn off aquifer. TDS after filter ~170).
I appreciate the input!

 

[Proph]

Looks exactly like a magnesium issue. Calcium is immobile.. Calcium issues start at the top and spread down the plant. Magnesium is mobile.. Issues start at the bottom/ lower middle of work their way up. The leaves have classic interveinal (occurring near or in-between veins) yellowing and rust spots, which is a sign of a magnesium issue. I tell people all the time that calcium and magnesium are two complete different nutrients that effect the plant differently, and are treated differently.

What caused it? It's hard to say. Most likely an excess of something (potassium or calcium probably) since your feeding a 17 day old plant bottled nutes and brews.. Happy frog has enough available nutrients to get an auto through the first 3 week without adding a thing exact water.. Everything you've added so far has had an effect on the balance of nutrients available.. It's not a "deficiency" if you're feeding the plant and have used cal mag.. Happy frog has an abundance of calcium already in it. Too much calcium will lock out magnesium.. So will too much potassium. These types of issues are present days, even weeks before they show signs on the leaves. Some plants can handle excess nutrients a little longer than other plants can. Some are sensitive to it and immediately have issues. If your feeding all of your plants the same thing, and the same way, expect to see the same issues at some point.

 

[LearningMore]

Looks exactly like a magnesium issue. Calcium is immobile.. Calcium issues start at the top and spread down the plant. Magnesium is mobile.. Issues start at the bottom/ lower middle of work their way up. The leaves have classic interveinal (occurring near or in-between veins) yellowing and rust spots, which is a sign of a magnesium issue. I tell people all the time that calcium and magnesium are two complete different nutrients that effect the plant differently, and are treated differently.

What caused it? It's hard to say. Most likely an excess of something (potassium or calcium probably) since your feeding a 17 day old plant bottled nutes and brews.. Happy frog has enough available nutrients to get an auto through the first 3 week without adding a thing exact water.. Everything you've added so far has had an effect on the balance of nutrients available.. It's not a "deficiency" if you're feeding the plant and have used cal mag.. Happy frog has an abundance of calcium already in it. Too much calcium will lock out magnesium.. So will too much potassium. These types of issues are present days, even weeks before they show signs on the leaves. Some plants can handle excess nutrients a little longer than other plants can. Some are sensitive to it and immediately have issues. If your feeding all of your plants the same thing, and the same way, expect to see the same issues at some point.

So best course of action for now? Do nothing and feed just water? (They get just water 2/3 of waterings already). I have read your posts extensively, so I understand (the concept of) the complex interplay of nutrient excesses causing lockouts and “apparent” deficiencies, I’m just trying to understand my best course of action. I know you’ve said not to “chase” deficiencies.

 

[Proph]

So best course of action for now? Do nothing and feed just water? (They get just water 2/3 of waterings already). I have read your posts extensively, so I understand (the concept of) the complex interplay of nutrient excesses causing lockouts and “apparent” deficiencies, I’m just trying to understand my best course of action. I know you’ve said not to “chase” deficiencies.

It's really difficult to correct an imbalance. There's no way to remove or reduce a single nutrient that is in excess. Every thing you do or try will effect something else. I would back off anything extra.. Just continue to use your base nutrient line at same low dosage and watch how the plant reacts. There isn't a set correct answer that will correct this. That's why people say "less is more" when growing autos. It's way to hard to correct an excess.. But very easy to correct a deficiency. Your goal is to try to regain the balance.

 

[LearningMore]

It's really difficult to correct an imbalance. There's no way to remove or reduce a single nutrient that is in excess. Every thing you do or try will effect something else. I would back off anything extra.. Just continue to use your base nutrient line at same low dosage and watch how the plant reacts. There isn't a set correct answer that will correct this. That's why people say "less is more" when growing autos. It's way to hard to correct an excess.. But very easy to correct a deficiency. Your goal is to try to regain the balance.

Will do, thanks.