what the heck happened

[growingmicro]

I’ve checked your thread out, you’ve got a nice setup. Only thing I didn’t see, I might have missed it though, are you monitoring root temps?

I only started ph my water with that vinegar attempt, but my tap ph is at 8.
I'm aiming my ph now at 6.3.

No, I don't have a way to measure the temp at the root but I have a thermometer on the top oh the pot, is a blue thing.

How can i have the temps of the roots?

 

[Proph]

Quick update, it seems that there is no new spots on it although one of the leaf's fell while I was taking one out.

The one all curled is the one that fell, took the other one cause I thought it was looking bad.

It's two different problems right?

Been super cold and humid so the soils is still pretty wet to give a new feeding.

View attachment 1264703

You had multiple issues showing due the plant not wanting/liking heavy feeds which caused a lock out/excess in the soil.. At this point, there is no way to pin point one individual issue from another. What you are seeing is a combination of issues expressing on two separate leaves. I wouldn't try to figure out each issue individually.. That's almost impossible outside of a lab. It's normal for sick leaves to die and fall off. When I have a sick plant I keep the effected leaves on as long as possible. They wont ever "recover" or look better, but I use them as reference to see if the problem is slowing or getting worse. Some issues effect new growth first.. But when you're past the stage of getting "new growth" like you are (The plant is no longer making leaves, it's making buds/flowers), those older, damaged leaves can be your only real reference. Plus if the soil or ph is locked out, the plant will use the nutrients stored in those leaves to feed on until the issue is corrected or the leaf is dead. So damaged leaves can be useful in most cases. I often see people pull off discolored fan leaves as soon as they start having spots. That actually makes the issue spread faster.. Then by the time the plant is in flower the yellowing and spots are on the sugar leaves because that's all that's basically left on the plant. So in that sense, fan leaves, (both sick and healthy) can be a safety net for when issues arise. You don't want any issues spreading to your sugar leaves, so let the sick leaves fall off naturally if needed. Just keep watching the leaves/plant closely for any type of spread or change. It's a good practice to closely examine each plant daily and look for changes anyway, whether good or bad. That's how you start to learn to how to read the plants..

 

[Cliffbuds]

I only started ph my water with that vinegar attempt, but my tap ph is at 8.
I'm aiming my ph now at 6.3.

No, I don't have a way to measure the temp at the root but I have a thermometer on the top oh the pot, is a blue thing.

How can i have the temps of the roots?

You have 2 options with your root temps, you can either get a digital thermometer with a probe that can be buried in the pot and hope your light and environment keeps it at the correct temperature. Or you can do what I do, place a heat mat under your pots, connect them to a reptile thermostat with the probe buried to the bottom of the pot and set it to 22c. My grow has been getting down to 16c but the roots are always warm.

 

[Cliffbuds]

You had multiple issues showing due the plant not wanting/liking heavy feeds which caused a lock out/excess in the soil.. At this point, there is no way to pin point one individual issue from another. What you are seeing is a combination of issues expressing on two separate leaves. I wouldn't try to figure out each issue individually.. That's almost impossible outside of a lab. It's normal for sick leaves to die and fall off. When I have a sick plant I keep the effected leaves on as long as possible. They wont ever "recover" or look better, but I use them as reference to see if the problem is slowing or getting worse. Some issues effect new growth first.. But when you're past the stage of getting "new growth" like you are (The plant is no longer making leaves, it's making buds/flowers), those older, damaged leaves can be your only real reference. Plus if the soil or ph is locked out, the plant will use the nutrients stored in those leaves to feed on until the issue is corrected or the leaf is dead. So damaged leaves can be useful in most cases. I often see people pull off discolored fan leaves as soon as they start having spots. Then by the time the plant is in flower and a problem arises, the problem shows up on the sugar leaves 1st because that's all that's left on the plant. So in that sense, fan leaves, (both sick and healthy) can be a safety net for when issues arise. You don't want any issues spreading to your sugar leaves, so let the sick leaves fall off naturally if needed. Just keep watching the leaves/plant closely for any type of spread or change. It's good practice to closely examine each plant daily and look for changes, whether good or bad. That's how you start to learn to read the plant.

Hey proph. Do you think it could be a phosphorus deficiency? I used to get them running biobizz and that leaf damage looks like classic phosphorus deficiency to me.

What ph do you recommend someone run in potting soil? I think an easy mistake for someone to make, including myself in the past is that mediums such as allmix are soil and treat them as such, when in fact they are a soilless medium and should follow a coco style ph range.

I believe the results of the runoff ph test you prescribed showed a ph of 7.1. The tap water is 8 and has only been adjusted once. Do you think growingmicro would fair better to drop his target ph lower than ph 6.3 from now on to compensate for the ph rising due to allmix buffer so it swings through a better range for nutrient uptake?

 

[Proph]

Hey proph. Do you think it could be a phosphorus deficiency? I used to get them running biobizz and that leaf damage looks like classic phosphorus deficiency to me.

What ph do you recommend someone run in potting soil? I think an easy mistake for someone to make, including myself in the past is that mediums such as allmix are soil and treat them as such, when in fact they are a soilless medium and should follow a coco style ph range.

I believe the results of the runoff ph test you prescribed showed a ph of 7.1. The tap water is 8 and has only been adjusted once. Do you think growingmicro would fair better to drop his target ph lower than ph 6.3 from now on to compensate for the ph rising due to allmix buffer so it swings through a better range for nutrient uptake?

I wouldn't attempt to pin point one single issue. If excess of one single nutrient can lock out multiple others, imagine how many nutrients are locked out if 3 are in excess.. That would take lab work to figure out. But what we do know is this..

So a deficiency that looks like a P deficiency, could actually be caused by too much calcium, and not actually be a P deficiency. That's why I always tell people that the signs of "deficiency" does not automatically mean to "add more".. Feeding bottled nutrients is a delicate balance. Once that balance is off, it's hard to get back.. That's why less is always more when using a nutrient line.

The soil ph is not the same thing as the nutrient solution. They are totally separate things. So if you Google "how to adjust soil ph", you will not see suggestions that say "water the soil with a lower/higher ph water source". It will say something like "use dolomite lime" mixed into the soil or something like that. The ph of the nutrient solution is all about the immediate availability of the nutrients to the plant. Thats why it's a ph range, not a ph specific number. Anywhere from 6-7 in soil is fine. If the root zone prefers 6.4, it will adjust it according in the rhizosphere of the soil.. But again, that's another chapter for later times. The soil buffer is to keep the "soil" ph at 7. The nutrient ph is about immediate nutrient availability to the plant. The only true way to know the soil ph, is with a soil ph probe.

Ph naturally rises as soil dries so that normal. That's why some people start at 6.0 feed ph. That's also why they say to not let soil dry out and to keep it moist.

The bio bizz Allmix is their version of soil.. I'm in the US so I've had to do a lot of reading up on it over the last few yrs because of its popularity in Europe and the infirmary, lol. Allmix should be treated like a soil though. Its website says it's a substrate that emulates soil, lol. So I would ph feeds anywhere from 6-6.5. It's kind of confusing but Im going off of what they are saying on their website.

Once cannabis is legal world wide or in entire nations, company's can actually do cannabis specific research and make cannabis specific products.. Until then the learning curve will remain and we will have to tinker with nutrient lines. Unless you go straight organic. That's pretty universal.

 

[Cliffbuds]

I wouldn't attempt to pin point one single issue. If excess of one single nutrient can lock out multiple others, imagine how many nutrients are locked out if 3 are in excess.. That would take lab work to figure out. But what we do know is this..

View attachment 1264805
So a deficiency that looks like a P deficiency, could actually be caused by too much calcium, and not actually be a P deficiency. That's why I always tell people that the signs of "deficiency" does not automatically mean to "add more".. Feeding bottled nutrients is a delicate balance. Once that balance is off, it's hard to get back.. That's why less is always more when using a nutrient line.

The soil ph is not the same thing as the nutrient solution. They are totally separate things. So if you Google "how to adjust soil ph", you will not see suggestions that say "water the soil with a lower/higher ph water source". It will say something like "use dolomite lime" mixed into the soil or something like that. The ph of the nutrient solution is all about the immediate availability of the nutrients to the plant. Thats why it's a ph range, not a ph specific number. Anywhere from 6-7 in soil is fine. If the root zone prefers 6.4, it will adjust it according in the rhizosphere of the soil.. But again, that's another chapter for later times. The soil buffer is to keep the "soil" ph at 7. The nutrient ph is about immediate nutrient availability to the plant. The only true way to know the soil ph, is with a soil ph probe.

Ph naturally rises as soil dries so that normal. That's why some people start at 6.0 feed ph. That's also why they say to not let soil dry out and to keep it moist.

The bio bizz Allmix is their version of soil.. I'm in the US so I've had to do a lot of reading up on it over the last few yrs because of its popularity in Europe and the infirmary, lol. Allmix should be treated like a soil though. Its website says it's a substrate that emulates soil, lol. So I would ph feeds anywhere from 6-6.5. It's kind of confusing but Im going off of what they are saying on their website.

Once cannabis is legal world wide or in entire nations, company's can actually do cannabis specific research and make cannabis specific products.. Until then the learning curve will remain and we will have to tinker with nutrient lines. Unless you go straight organic. That's pretty universal.

Thanks Proph I enjoyed reading that. I had issues most grows in peat based compost. Felt like guess work all the time with organic bottled nutrients. I feel for growingmicro that’s why I’m chiming in so much! I definitely had far less issues keeping ph to 6 with biobizz

 

[growingmicro]

ok so just a lil update.

it seems that it stopped the spot spreading across other leafs but now it went pale yellow ( my color blind ass thinks..)


the twin one got a bit of the spotings but it wasnt that bad but the lower leafs are getting really yellow also


it happen the same to the lil one




And I'm thinking on the next feed, I'm cuting everything down at half.

*Got Canna mono magnesium I don't know if I should start using it. What do you think?

So I will give them a batch of
4lt of water
2 ml of BioGrow
4ml of BioGrow
2ml of Top max
* 2ml of Canna Mono magnesium

after all mixed up, test ph and the ec and either add more water if ec too high (> 500) and use ph down after.

Is this the procedure to make?

Once again thank you all for your patience.

 

[Cliffbuds]

I know I’m going to get shot down for this, but those plants are clearly starving hungry. I would forget about your cocktail, forget the bloom nutes, top max and mono magnesium and give them a full strength feed of bio grow on its own, 4ml per litre ph 6. Water them in your bath and make sure you get loads of runoff. That should green those leaves back up. That’s the colour leaves you want at harvest time, not at your stage of growth.

 

[elcoloan]

i think you need to add some bennies to whatever you decide to do... just to make sure there isn't a root problem you haven't noticed.

 

[Fermented_Fruitz]

Bro yours are looking like mine did when I had an episode where wound up in the hospital and plants kept getting severely under watered! Then wasn’t solubilizing any of the nutes in soil and were starving! What yours remind me of but I’m no pro!