What Have I Done Now? Golden Leaves

[ExNavyInSTL]

I woke up to the leaves, looking almost golden.

It's only on one side of the plant.

This is Day 43 above the ground.

She is in a SIP Bucket, in 60/40 Coco and Perlite.

She is on FloraFlex. The recipe says it should be an E.C. 3.0. That seems hot to me, so I diluted solution to 2.5.

I've been very careful with pH.

It came on really fast. There was no visible sign of this change last night.

Her DLI is around 30. Temps and humidity are also ideal.

I did give her a mono-silic acid foliar yesterday, but that seems pretty inert.

What say you?

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

Are you taking those pictures in 5000K light (daylight)?

Lets make sure we are on the same page for reporting the EC ?

It might be helpful if you look at this so you will know what i am talking about when we start discussing what I think I see?

Tutorial - A word on Nutrients

The proper use of “salt” based fertilizer to grow Auto Flowering Cannabis. Salts: Natural and man made any chemical compound formed from the reaction of an acid with a base, with all or part of the hydrogen of the acid replaced by a metal or other cation. Learning how to use salt based...

www.autoflower.org

 

[ExNavyInSTL]

Thanks.

Lucky for me I never went down the PPM 500/700 rabbit hole.

I started with E.C.

As for the color of the light, it might be 6000 kelvin. It's a cheap Chinese light I bought when I started. It's 400W (2 x 200 MeanWell drivers).
There is no way this is 400w in brightness. There are 2 x 200w drivers on the back of the light. It a foldable two-piece.

They also claim: WAKYME dimmable growing light built with MeanWell driver and consist of 1400pcs latest SMD 3030LED technology to provide the highest PAR / LUMEN output (PPE: 2.5umol, Par: 1265umol), Sunlike growing lamp 660-665nm Red IR/3200-4200Knm/6000Knm.

I run 2 x MarsHydros SP-3000s now in my 4 x 4. I had to move this plant and another out of the other autoflower tent because I had an Auto that "indentified" as a Photo, so I switched that tent to 12/12. The other three in there were way deep into flowering so they are just going to finish out at 12/12.

As for this light in question. I'll post the specs they claim, but who knows. There are 2 x 200w drivers on the back of the light.

This is a good time to help with a related question. Do people consider height with modern LED?

I have never really followed light height as far as close to the plants. I figured light height was what people used before LEDs because those bulbs produced a lot of downward heat.

I always set up for DLI. My goal is to raise the light as high as possible (better spread) and run at 100%. Then lower down until the correct DLI. I don't consider PAR or PPFD because that is calculated in the DLI output reading.

I don't like using a dimmer. Maybe I am wrong, but I am always afraid the "Dimmed" LEDs are not putting out the correct and full color spectrum.
I'll correct my myself, I will use the dimmer for small changes. If I want 30 and it reads 33, I'll dim for that.

Ok, after this light graphic, I'll post the feed chart.

As for the nutrients, I am following the FloraFlex Recipe. I'll post that. They say go 3.0 EC from the second week on. She is 43 Days old, and been drinking and eating hot from the beginning.

My gut told me to not go 3.0 and I have it around 2.5 - 2.6. I am meticulous about pH, and I never fill the SIP bucket until there is overflow. I don't mind adding nutirients more often. Plus, it make for less waste if I have to have an emergency flush or something.

I really think it was the light. I had to get it pretty close to get in the low 30s DLI. I raised it a bit and angled it so the other plant (in early flower) could her fair share. Either, the light was actually doing the "burn" or the light was forcing the plant to take up more water (nutrients) and she got overloaded.

Now that I raised it, I angled a floor fan up at the light to disperse heat away from the plant surface. And I lowered the DLI to the high 20s.

I'm also slowly moving from 20/4 to 18/6 with the tabs on the mechanical timer.

Let me know what you think?

Anything I said above was "belief" not knowledge. : )

Are you taking those pictures in 5000K light (daylight)?

Lets make sure we are on the same page for reporting the EC ?




View attachment 1555224

It might be helpful if you look at this so you will know what i am talking about when we start discussing what I think I see?

Tutorial - A word on Nutrients

The proper use of “salt” based fertilizer to grow Auto Flowering Cannabis. Salts: Natural and man made any chemical compound formed from the reaction of an acid with a base, with all or part of the hydrogen of the acid replaced by a metal or other cation. Learning how to use salt based...

www.autoflower.org

 

[DCLXVI]

Shoot man, I couldn't pin that color change down to anything but, EC 3.0 seems awfully awfully high to me. I barely pushed 2.4EC on a massive photo I have going.

I also don't think I 've seen anyone run a coco/SIP before. Usually coco is a drain to waste semi-hydro style grow. Although a few do run autopots with coco. So..... I don't really know other than perhaps too strong with an unusual setup.

On the SIP the idea is that the roots go down into the "sub" reservoir below the medium correct? Does all the coco stay wet or get irrigated? I can see how the autopots wick into the coco with the rise and fall of the water but I am unsure how the SIP works with coco.

Just thinking out loud a bit.

 

[namvet25]

Do not over feed plant wiyh to much nitrogen and use a little calcium.

 

[Zaaboot]

Hey there - that feed chart is nuts, it has the highest numbers I have ever seen on a chart by far - I feel like I push my ladies and rarely reach 2.4 at peak flower, let alone 3 in veg.
The darkness of the leaves and some of the tips pointing inwards gives the impression of too much N, which in itself creates other issues with respect to what the plant can take up sending it out of kilter.

You could try washing her through, but not with plain water - try a much lower EC solutions and really flush that through removing any build up in the coco - it is possible to overwater in coco but it takes a lot so dont be shy. Once the EC going in and coming out stabilises your coco should be in better shape, then reset the res - try going in with an EC 1.4 or so and work your way up from there

Good luck
Z

 

[kfigerm]

Well, the nute levels are really too high. But I think what you see is a product of light and perhaps moisture..did you spray them?
Were those leaves perhaps covered in the shadow some days earlier and came to light lately? Were they close under other leaves, so moisture could rise there?
Though a dli of 30 seems low, but as you state you run the lights at 100%..which height is it above canopy? What tool do you use - if not calibrated photone will give you much lower values than ppfdmeter. I'd check that.

 

[ExNavyInSTL]

Thanks everyone. I'll get back to all the question later. Have a bunch happening at the moment.

The good news is that it hasn't spread. And hasn't advance much up the leaves that were barely affected.

 

[ExNavyInSTL]

Ok, I'll get started. I'll put my answers in BOLD letters.

I also don't think I 've seen anyone run a coco/SIP before.

I’m not sure how popular it is, but Scotty the guy that owns Recharge and Real Growers does it all the time. In fact, I think he has switched to all SIPs now.

Usually coco is a drain to waste semi-hydro style grow. Although a few do run autopost with coco.

I have AutoPots running now as well. I love the concept.
I’ve learned I can’t be trusted to be in charge of watering manually.
That’s why I run SIPs, AutoPots or BluMat Drippers. I like to let the plant decide how thirsty it is.

On the SIP the idea is that the roots go down into the "sub" reservoir below the medium correct?

With this design you don’t want your roots to get to where the water is, but the sneaky little things try hard as they can, and some do make it.

I’ll post pictures of the design, but basically you have a concentric contraption that fits down to the bottom of your bucket.

However, it is tapered down the sides all round except for where the watering tube.

The space in that taper is filled with the coco from the bucket. The sides work as the “wick” for the design.

Does all the coco stay wet or get irrigated?

It keeps the coco/perlite perfectly damp. I still put anti-root rot in the mix just in case for the tapered section that stays in the water at the bottom.

I can see how the autopots wick into the coco with the rise and fall of the water but I am unsure how the SIP works with coco.

It is similar in design to AutoPots, except that I am the Reservoir when I put food and water.

I make a point to never fill it to the overflow hole (3.5” deep).

What I do is watch the depth indicator (long plastic float) and tap it to check the bounce.

When it seems like there is a 1/2” or so, I’ll only add a half gallon or so.

I’m not brave enough to do any kind of dry back yet.

However, I would fill it to the overflow hole if I was leaving for the weekend or something.

Just thinking out loud a bit.

Now, here is a montage I put together to explain the SIP I use.

By the way, normally, the buckets are 5 gallon.

I went with the 3.5 gallon this grow so that the height would be closer to the same height as the AutoPots.

That way I keep keep the lights uniform until the different phenos made that too difficult.

Ok, I'll work on the next posts.

 

[ExNavyInSTL]

I'm on it.

Nitrogen is standard Veg amount now.

I think I am seeing hints of flowering, so I'll switch to Bloom nutes soon.
They are designed with less Nitrogen.

Even though that feed chart above says this No Cal/Mag version, I still put a little calcium in there.

I was using CaliMagic (5 ml for 5 gallons) as a Ca bump,
but will switch to dissolving a little Calcium Sulphate when I flip to avoid the N that is on Cal/Mag.

Do not over feed plant wiyh to much nitrogen and use a little calcium.