New Grower Watering with Oxygenated water

Air is air - air pumps pump mostly nitrogen and little oxygen, 4/5 N2 and 1/5 O2 respectively - if you use bigger air pumps and pump 3 X as much air your don't get 3 X as much oxygen.
Air is a limiting factor is plenty of oxygen is your goal. Are you a RDWC grower and do you ever have root rot outbreaks?
I have looked and seem may "forum experts" claim that plenty of oxygen prevents fungal infestations, yet I see far more discussion about how to cure root rot. Looks to me like the vast majority of growers prefer treating the disease because they cannot prevent the fungal disease outbreak.

I'd rather prevent root rot any day than catch it and then try to cure it. How bout you? Prevention or treatment, what's your preference, that is if you really had any choice about it?
Something is unclear to me. Is aeration the prevention or cure for root fungal disease, or both? Does aeration increase or decrease likelihood of root fungal pathogenicity?

Fungal root disease, like any disease, involves out-of-the-normal opportunistic overgrowth (infection) by a single or few undesired organisms, with the normal biological diversity/ecology of microbes disturbed. How is this affected or not by increased water/nutrient aeration? Doesn't increased aeration ("oxygenation" as some erroneously call it) actually encourage increased fungal and bacterial growth (what we want, presuming this is all root-friendly fungal/bacterial growth)? Are cannabis root diseases caused by non-aerophilic, e.g., anaerobic, fungi/microbes such that water aeration kills or inhibits them?
 
Aeration is purely preventative and not a cure at all.

Corgy, I believe you are right, aeration cures absolutely nothing, nothing at all, especially fungal root rot slime disease. All aeration does is make a lot of noise with those noisy little air pumps and blows air bubbles like in a goldfish bowl to look at. Aeration prevents what?

RDWC/DWC pot growers love to cure disease, Pythium and other fungal root rot outbreaks. Western growers like Western health care professionals love the challenge of curing disease. The typical mindset of Western Medicine is based on treating and curing disease, not disease prevention.

I see many, many post in pot growers forums about air, aeration, more air, water chillers and what not… in your opinion what in the world does air, aeration, tons of air prevent in RDWC/DWC pot grows? I don’t see that aeration, air ‘prevents’ anything, but selling aeration product, air pumps, air diffusers/venture’s water chillers and chemicals to treat root rot disease is quiet profitable.

I see even more post every year about how to treat root rot (Pythium and other fungal outbreaks) in RDWC/DWC. All kinds of different commercial chemicals and homemade tea concoctions recommended to treat root rot fungal outbreaks. Again all this stuff is aimed toward disease treatment, but I see no prevention of anything with aeration at all.

I see lot of air blown with big blowers, 3-4 blowers with venture, supper air diffusers (4-5-6 of them) and water falls…and the big seller - water chillers chilling lots of water and air 24/7, but I see no one having much success at preventing root rot fungal outbreaks with aeration and air. I see a lot of crying, whining and gritting of teeth because of root rot disease and all the air in the world is preventing nothing. The fungal outbreaks march right on with full immunity with all that aeration.

In your opinion, what do you really believe aeration prevents?
 
In your opinion, what do you really believe aeration prevents?

A water logged medium that is the ideal conditions for pythium when not in DWC. In DWC, that combined with keeping the temperature down to below 20 c, whether by ventilation(ambient) or water chilling. When I get around to trying DWC, temperature will be my first line of prevention......

Regarding homebrews, have a look here where everything you describe above is playing out https://www.autoflower.org/threads/nebula-cheese-alien-rdwc-pro-55l-pots.40515/ and lo and behold, there was even a happy ending.

More here https://www.autoflower.org/threads/pythium-outbreak-worm-casting-tea-treatment.46487/#post-870882

I hardly think that anyone "love" to fight diseases, but that's just me!

May I ask, what is your thoughts on preventing diseases such a pythium?
 
A water logged medium that is the ideal conditions for pythium when not in DWC. In DWC, that combined with keeping the temperature down to below 20 c, whether by ventilation(ambient) or water chilling. When I get around to trying DWC, temperature will be my first line of prevention......

Well that is in line with the rigid thinking about preventing root rot discussion for RDWC/DWC pot growing seen on most forums. Are you open to any new ideas?
If you ever get around-to-it, trying RDWC/DWC pot growing could be a new exciting adventure... beware of the ubiquitous root rot, it’s everywhere just waiting for the right opportunity to bust out and thrive. Most growers tout that, Low oxygen levels p
I hardly think that anyone "love" to fight diseases, but that's just me!

Fighting the disease may be a big part of the experience for many RDWC growers. Especially when they cannot prevent the fungal outbreak. Treating the disease outbreak or replanting is about the only option they have. Clearly, most grower have neither the desire motivation not the knowledge how to prevent fungal outbreaks in RDWC/DWC grows.

I know you have no experience with RDWC/DWC growing, but can you imagine any other options other than preventing the fungus or treating the fungal outbreak after it breaks out? Please share some wisdom if you have any other ideas.

resents “the right opportunity” for fungal breakouts. Might be some truth to that.
Regarding homebrews, have a look here where everything you describe above is playing out https://www.autoflower.org/threads/nebula-cheese-alien-rdwc-pro-55l-pots.40515/ and lo and behold, there was even a happy ending.
Read half of this long, long thread. This is about treating fungal diseases, not preventing fungal disease in DWC pot grows. It’s packed with plenty of tips, tricks, teas, brews, meticulous treatment programs and all kinds of harsh chemical concoctions aimed specifically at treating fungal root rot disease in DWC pot grows – I see nothing about preventing fungal root rot, nothing about nor any desire for prevention nor any effective methods how to preventing the outbreaks. Please show me where and how prevent is discussed here, I don’t see it. If you like CO2 in the water, try using OTabs and get the best of both worlds, The Otab produces 90% O2 with 10% CO2 and 1 tab last up to 5-10 hours. High concentration of O2 and CO2, like speed for pot plants. Drop the tab, get out of the way and watch the garden grow.
Maarvyy says “This [fungal root rot outbreak] is basicly a result of spreading my pumps too thin. I use helia v30's split 2 times "30 litres per hour" in to 20 litre buckets . I recently got greedy and split them again 4 times "15 litres per hour" per 20L bucket .

He also thinks the cause of root rot is, “Because pythium thrives in low oxygen condition's?

Maarvyy is right, but he just doesn’t know how to fix his low oxygen problem, how to great oxygenation and prevent his fungal outbreaks. I’m sure he would love to have dependable high oxygen conditions 24/7 and prevent the fungal disease, but he can’t right now. His only option is try to treat and kill the disease outbreak until he learns how to prevent it and does it.

May I ask, what is your thoughts on preventing diseases such a pythium?

Sure, Prevent all Low Oxygen Opportunity. For RDWC/DWC preventing Pythium and other fungal disease, the outbreaks can be prevented by simply maintaining continuous 100% DO saturation or DO supersaturation 24/7 in nutrient solution and root zones till harvest, at least many talking heads and water chiller salesmen promote DO saturation. I like the Current Culture tubs and piping equipment. Some slight hardware modification and 100% DO sat is simple to control through the system.

I believe preventing fungal outbreaks trumps treating fungal disease any day. I’m a prevention oriented fellow.
 
Well that is in line with the rigid thinking about preventing root rot discussion for RDWC/DWC pot growing seen on most forums. Are you open to any new ideas?
If you ever get around-to-it, trying RDWC/DWC pot growing could be a new exciting adventure... beware of the ubiquitous root rot, it’s everywhere just waiting for the right opportunity to bust out and thrive. Most growers tout that, Low oxygen levels p


Fighting the disease may be a big part of the experience for many RDWC growers. Especially when they cannot prevent the fungal outbreak. Treating the disease outbreak or replanting is about the only option they have. Clearly, most grower have neither the desire motivation not the knowledge how to prevent fungal outbreaks in RDWC/DWC grows.

I know you have no experience with RDWC/DWC growing, but can you imagine any other options other than preventing the fungus or treating the fungal outbreak after it breaks out? Please share some wisdom if you have any other ideas.

resents “the right opportunity” for fungal breakouts. Might be some truth to that.

Read half of this long, long thread. This is about treating fungal diseases, not preventing fungal disease in DWC pot grows. It’s packed with plenty of tips, tricks, teas, brews, meticulous treatment programs and all kinds of harsh chemical concoctions aimed specifically at treating fungal root rot disease in DWC pot grows – I see nothing about preventing fungal root rot, nothing about nor any desire for prevention nor any effective methods how to preventing the outbreaks. Please show me where and how prevent is discussed here, I don’t see it. If you like CO2 in the water, try using OTabs and get the best of both worlds, The Otab produces 90% O2 with 10% CO2 and 1 tab last up to 5-10 hours. High concentration of O2 and CO2, like speed for pot plants. Drop the tab, get out of the way and watch the garden grow.

Maarvyy says “This [fungal root rot outbreak] is basicly a result of spreading my pumps too thin. I use helia v30's split 2 times "30 litres per hour" in to 20 litre buckets . I recently got greedy and split them again 4 times "15 litres per hour" per 20L bucket .

He also thinks the cause of root rot is, “Because pythium thrives in low oxygen condition's?

Maarvyy is right, but he just doesn’t know how to fix his low oxygen problem, how to great oxygenation and prevent his fungal outbreaks. I’m sure he would love to have dependable high oxygen conditions 24/7 and prevent the fungal disease, but he can’t right now. His only option is try to treat and kill the disease outbreak until he learns how to prevent it and does it.



Sure, Prevent all Low Oxygen Opportunity. For RDWC/DWC preventing Pythium and other fungal disease, the outbreaks can be prevented by simply maintaining continuous 100% DO saturation or DO supersaturation 24/7 in nutrient solution and root zones till harvest, at least many talking heads and water chiller salesmen promote DO saturation. I like the Current Culture tubs and piping equipment. Some slight hardware modification and 100% DO sat is simple to control through the system.

I believe preventing fungal outbreaks trumps treating fungal disease any day. I’m a prevention oriented fellow.

Why not start a grow journal or some DIY guides on here then brother? I'm sure the forum members would love to have some good, informational guides that pushes back at the status quo of what's currently accepted? And I mean that with an extended, inviting hand. We're "proof is in the pudding" kind of folk here and sometimes it's better to show and tell then to try to just tell (know what I mean?)
 
Sure, Prevent all Low Oxygen Opportunity. For RDWC/DWC preventing Pythium and other fungal disease, the outbreaks can be prevented by simply maintaining continuous 100% DO saturation or DO supersaturation 24/7 in nutrient solution and root zones till harvest, at least many talking heads and water chiller salesmen promote DO saturation. I like the Current Culture tubs and piping equipment. Some slight hardware modification and 100% DO sat is simple to control through the system.

I believe preventing fungal outbreaks trumps treating fungal disease any day. I’m a prevention oriented fellow.

It's kinda hard to follow your train of thought........

I'm with you on prevention being better than firefighting.

Regarding the O-tabs, what 's the purpose, what can they do that simple aeration from an air pump won't do, never mind the running costs and 3 times a day effort with those tabs compared to an air pump?
The CO2 component, is that useful in the water or only as it gets into the air? if the effect is in the water, please show me scientific evidence that plants absorb CO2 through the roots, other than the obscure Russian study has no peer acceptance with beets that the Nomercy chap here in Holland had translated and used as marketing for the Nomercy CO2 tabs he is selling. He told me so himself.......

How would you produce a solution supersaturated with O2 in a grow room, mindbearing https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Supersaturation and many others, google "DO supersaturation"?

Finally, those that in your words don't have the knowledge to prevent fungal infections, what is it they need to learn and do to achieve a completely 24/7 O2 saturated solution, you mention "some slight hardware modification" to the Current Culture tubs, which by the way looks like either Alien or Current Culture is a copycat or it's the same company, what specific modifications have you done to your Current Culture tubs to achieve the vaunted 100% DO saturation 24/7 and how do you control/verify it?
 
It's kinda hard to follow your train of thought........
Sorry, I’ll be more precise, illuminate clarity and eliminate confusion.

I'm with you on prevention being better than firefighting.
I really like prevention too, it’s so much cheaper and far more productive in the long haul, crop after crop, year after year. When you grow and sell buds on a commercial scale quality, quantity in pounds, the shortest growing time is the money maker. Need real healthy plants and microbes to do that. Six great harvest per year puts more money in your pocket than 3 minimal harvest per year. You do the math, Growing for highest quality and maximum quantity buds certainly trumps gorilla farming in a National Forrest and growing Mexican Dirt Weed in the back yard for volume like back in the 1950’s and early 60’s.

Regarding the O-tabs, what 's the purpose, what can they do that simple aeration from an air pump won't do
Provides 90% supplemental oxygenation and 10% supplemental CO2. Air pumps regardless of the volume of air you pump provides only 20% oxygen and 80% nitrogen – the difference is clear to me, 20% O2 vs. 90% O2.

never mind the running costs and 3 times a day effort with those tabs compared to an air pump?
The tab is only 1 way to supplement oxygen and CO2, there are many others ways that are more cost effective methods to administer supplemental oxygen.


The CO2 component, is that useful in the water or only as it gets into the air?
Great question. Some say yes, others don’t use CO2 at all… what’s your opinion, your experience? 10% CO2 off gases and equilibrated with ambient CO2 (0.038%) around root balls and the plant itself like smoke rising from a fire.


How would you produce a solution supersaturated with O2 in a grow room, mindbearing https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Supersaturation and many others, google "DO supersaturation"?
I know you have no experience with RDWC/DWC growing and clearly no knowledge of oxygen-rich air spaces >24% oxygen. Why in the world would anyone want to supersaturate any grow room air space with oxygen? An oxygen enriched room with all that electricity running would be a terrible fire hazard, NO SMOKING signs on the door would be a city Fire Marshall requirement (code) like hospital rooms using oxygen. Much less oxygen is required to insure continuous 100% DO saturation in nutrient water. Of course DO supersaturation in the reservoir and outflow to the return flow at the pump intake prevents all low oxygen failures 24/7. Plenty of dissolved to satisfy the BOD for the plants, microbial eco systems and off-gasses oxygen by simple diffusion into the atmosphere – DO never falls below saturation at any point in the circulation system even at 80F nutrient temp. Plenty of oxygen for plants and beneficial microbes with higher metabolic rates. Aerobes grow faster in warmer conditions and are healthier provided the BOD is continuously met.



Finally, those that in your words don't have the knowledge to prevent fungal infections, what is it they need to learn and do to achieve a completely 24/7 O2 saturated solution, you mention "some slight hardware modification" to the Current Culture tubs, which by the way looks like either Alien or Current Culture is a copycat or it's the same company, what specific modifications have you done to your Current Culture tubs to achieve the vaunted 100% DO saturation 24/7 and how do you control/verify it?
Oxygen enrichment with Supplemental oxygen > 23% or greater adjusted to insure continuous 100% DO supersaturation or better, DO supersaturation and never allowing the DO to plummet below 100% DO saturation throughout the growing period…. DO saturation adjusted and confirmed with daily serial DO Saturation testing. That simple. And this is very cost effective compared to the cost of firefighting fungal outbreaks year after year, decade after decades for the rest of your pot growing life.

Doctors, fish farmers, fish hatcheries and astronauts use, test and adjust supplemental oxygen administration every day – this is as common as dirt. They also understand that minimal safe oxygenation is extremely limited using air, an electric fan and hypothermia.

I really like the Current Culture engineering and design with continuous water circulation (contained water circulation), configuration, pots, lids, etc., but the Current Culture Brand is expensive. Mine is homemade using the Current Culture model and a smaller circulating water pump to conserve electricity, reduce pump heat and reduce pump noise. Large water pumps pumping all the water is not necessary. Factory controlled climate air, temp and humidity and of course supplement oxygen enrichment efficiently dissolved into the reservoir nutrient with a homemade packed column maintains continuous great DO's - 125% DO sat @ res outflow and 110% DO sat at res inflow, that’s all… all problems associated with RDWC low oxygenation are gone -- forever.


Finally, those that in your words don't have the knowledge to prevent fungal infections,
Most growers are bright folks and they clearly choose firefighting over prevention. Let’ clarify and redirect here Corgy. RDWC/DWC pot growers love their water chillers, chiller salesmen love to sell them by the train loads and growers really believe that if their nutrient temp is 65F -70F, the DO sat chart always says the DO saturation will be 100% DO saturated (the DO sat chart is based on air exposure 20.93% O2, not oxygen enriched O2 concentration >24% O2). All RDWC/DWC pot growers and water chiller salesmen say that the magic DO sat that prevents and inhibits Pythium fungal outbreaks is 100% DO sat. OK, 100% DO sat prevents fungal outbreaks, that sounds reasonable to me. So then it sounds logical to me and the average hydroponics grower that air and chilled water (65F-70F) insures 100% DO sat continuously 24/7 and the low oxygen opportunity fungal outbreaks thrive in will be prevented – right? So buy a $250 water chiller, turn it on and hope your don’t have an outbreak, looks and sounds familiar. The salesman shows you the DO Sat chart and insures you that 100% DO Sat at 68F is guaranteed (read the DO sat chart) and the grower is sold hook-line-and-sinker. Sales says cold water is your best option. No one argues with the proof written on the DO Sat chart. But, very few growers ever heard of a DO Meter much less ever tested the DO saturation in their chilled nutrient water to actually see just how low their DO sat really is in their aerated solution. The actual DO test results are often very different that the DO Sat chart numbers show. The DO sat chart never considers the amount of oxygen consumed (lost from solution) because of the collective BOD for sustaining 2 eco-systems nor natural off-gassing as the nutrient water circulates through the hydro-system.

Buy a chiller and chill your water 24/7, but there is no guarantee from the manufacturer or chiller salesman that the chilled water will insure 100% DO saturation nor prevent low oxygen crisis or root rot outbreaks. Why not? That’s a no-brainer.

The water chiller business is thriving and treating root rot is thriving and a very popular topic year after year after year.

***Gorgy, you have no RDWC/DWC experience, but in your opinion… why isn’t fungal outbreak prevention working using plenty of air and cold, chilled nutrient solution?
 
Why not start a grow journal or some DIY guides on here then brother? I'm sure the forum members would love to have some good, informational guides that pushes back at the status quo of what's currently accepted? And I mean that with an extended, inviting hand. We're "proof is in the pudding" kind of folk here and sometimes it's better to show and tell then to try to just tell (know what I mean?)
Son of Hobbes, Thank you for the kind words and invitation. Actually information in this post opens a new door to oxygenation for RDWC/DWC growers. Applying new, strange and different methods of preventing RDWC/DWC fungal outbreaks for those who prefer prevention vs. the thrill of fighting the “fungus fire” with chemicals and various concoctions, brews and teas year after year yet never preventing the outbreaks. Smoky the Bear endorses fire prevention, I like that and prevention is far less expensive in the long run – over a RDWC/DWC pot grower’s lifetime. We live in America and today we still have a few choices and we all make our own choices for now… life goes on.

The old status quo (product manufacturers, politicians and old pot growers set in their ways) do not like nor do they appreciate change, poo-poo and criticize new ideas, new oxygen technology and new methods that really do prevent low oxygen events, fungal diseases and resulting complications in RDWC/DWC grows.

Either oxygen is low or oxygen is not low, 100% DO saturation is optimal but is seldom sustained continuously 24/7 in RDWC/DWC grows. This is specifically about insuring safe oxygenation, it's not aeration and cold water or fighting fungal outbreaks. Either there is enough oxygen or there is not enough oxygen – the safe O2 line is clear and measurable with a DO meter. There is no maybe enough or maybe not enough oxygen, but when the O2 is low in a RDWC, root rot symptoms present quickly with slimy discolored roots which is clearly obvious. Growers never miss the symptoms then the rush to “fight this fungal fire” begins in earnest. RDWC growers know when they have failed to provide enough oxygen to their grow.
 
Sorry, I’ll be more precise, illuminate clarity and eliminate confusion.


I really like prevention too, it’s so much cheaper and far more productive in the long haul, crop after crop, year after year. When you grow and sell buds on a commercial scale quality, quantity in pounds, the shortest growing time is the money maker. Need real healthy plants and microbes to do that. Six great harvest per year puts more money in your pocket than 3 minimal harvest per year. You do the math, Growing for highest quality and maximum quantity buds certainly trumps gorilla farming in a National Forrest and growing Mexican Dirt Weed in the back yard for volume like back in the 1950’s and early 60’s.

Sure, that's a no brainer


Provides 90% supplemental oxygenation and 10% supplemental CO2. Air pumps regardless of the volume of air you pump provides only 20% oxygen and 80% nitrogen – the difference is clear to me, 20% O2 vs. 90% O2.

Ehhhh, DO in water is according to below chart.....injecting higher concentrations of O2 is not gonna do didly squat

Oxygen Solubility in Fresh Water and Sea Water.png



The tab is only 1 way to supplement oxygen and CO2, there are many others ways that are more cost effective methods to administer supplemental oxygen.

So why mention them?

Great question. Some say yes, others don’t use CO2 at all… what’s your opinion, your experience? 10% CO2 off gases and equilibrated with ambient CO2 (0.038%) around root balls and the plant itself like smoke rising from a fire.

The trouble with that reasoning is that CO2 is heavier than air, so it will stay in root ball, and anyways the minuscule amount of CO2 provided by a tab.......and no, I don't believe that plants absorb CO2 through the roots. All this some say, provide some peer reviewed scientific papers and I'll change my mind.....lol

I know you have no experience with RDWC/DWC growing and clearly no knowledge of oxygen-rich air spaces >24% oxygen. Why in the world would anyone want to supersaturate any grow room air space with oxygen? An oxygen enriched room with all that electricity running would be a terrible fire hazard, NO SMOKING signs on the door would be a city Fire Marshall requirement (code) like hospital rooms using oxygen. Much less oxygen is required to insure continuous 100% DO saturation in nutrient water. Of course DO supersaturation in the reservoir and outflow to the return flow at the pump intake prevents all low oxygen failures 24/7. Plenty of dissolved to satisfy the BOD for the plants, microbial eco systems and off-gasses oxygen by simple diffusion into the atmosphere – DO never falls below saturation at any point in the circulation system even at 80F nutrient temp. Plenty of oxygen for plants and beneficial microbes with higher metabolic rates. Aerobes grow faster in warmer conditions and are healthier provided the BOD is continuously met.

There is no such thing as supersaturation in gas form, i.e. in air........supersaturation can only occur in liquids, and under very special circumstance that I'll claim never occurs in a reservoir, so saturation is saturation according to the chart, suggest you read the links I have previously posted. I have plenty experience with oxygen rich and poor air spaces, and other gases as well, from controlled atmosphere shipments/storage of fruits to gas freeing of oil/gas tankers to scuba diving, and quite frankly what you say makes no sense.

Oxygen enrichment with Supplemental oxygen > 23% or greater adjusted to insure continuous 100% DO supersaturation or better, DO supersaturation and never allowing the DO to plummet below 100% DO saturation throughout the growing period…. DO saturation adjusted and confirmed with daily serial DO Saturation testing. That simple. And this is very cost effective compared to the cost of firefighting fungal outbreaks year after year, decade after decades for the rest of your pot growing life.

I have no clue......

Doctors, fish farmers, fish hatcheries and astronauts use, test and adjust supplemental oxygen administration every day – this is as common as dirt. They also understand that minimal safe oxygenation is extremely limited using air, an electric fan and hypothermia.

Sure they do, just as well as I do before I enter a previously inert void space on an oil tanker, it's a question of living to tell the tale.

I really like the Current Culture engineering and design with continuous water circulation (contained water circulation), configuration, pots, lids, etc., but the Current Culture Brand is expensive. Mine is homemade using the Current Culture model and a smaller circulating water pump to conserve electricity, reduce pump heat and reduce pump noise. Large water pumps pumping all the water is not necessary. Factory controlled climate air, temp and humidity and of course supplement oxygen enrichment efficiently dissolved into the reservoir nutrient with a homemade packed column maintains continuous great DO's - 125% DO sat @ res outflow and 110% DO sat at res inflow, that’s all… all problems associated with RDWC low oxygenation are gone -- forever.

Wots .....Factory controlled climate air, temp and humidity........and where do you get this "extra" O2 from, a high pressure large bottle with pressure reduction valves?

Instead of a water pump, why not use an airlift for circulation, plenty cheaper to run and aeration at the same time to boot.


Most growers are bright folks and they clearly choose firefighting over prevention. Let’ clarify and redirect here Corgy. RDWC/DWC pot growers love their water chillers, chiller salesmen love to sell them by the train loads and growers really believe that if their nutrient temp is 65F -70F, the DO sat chart always says the DO saturation will be 100% DO saturated (the DO sat chart is based on air exposure 20.93% O2, not oxygen enriched O2 concentration >24% O2). All RDWC/DWC pot growers and water chiller salesmen say that the magic DO sat that prevents and inhibits Pythium fungal outbreaks is 100% DO sat. OK, 100% DO sat prevents fungal outbreaks, that sounds reasonable to me. So then it sounds logical to me and the average hydroponics grower that air and chilled water (65F-70F) insures 100% DO sat continuously 24/7 and the low oxygen opportunity fungal outbreaks thrive in will be prevented – right? So buy a $250 water chiller, turn it on and hope your don’t have an outbreak, looks and sounds familiar. The salesman shows you the DO Sat chart and insures you that 100% DO Sat at 68F is guaranteed (read the DO sat chart) and the grower is sold hook-line-and-sinker. Sales says cold water is your best option. No one argues with the proof written on the DO Sat chart. But, very few growers ever heard of a DO Meter much less ever tested the DO saturation in their chilled nutrient water to actually see just how low their DO sat really is in their aerated solution. The actual DO test results are often very different that the DO Sat chart numbers show. The DO sat chart never considers the amount of oxygen consumed (lost from solution) because of the collective BOD for sustaining 2 eco-systems nor natural off-gassing as the nutrient water circulates through the hydro-system.

Again, no clue......and the DO chart doesn't have to consider anything, it's just a chart showing scientific facts. There's no off gassing of O2 from water, if there was, it's highly unlikely the worlds aquarium and aquaculture players would condone aeration.......

Buy a chiller and chill your water 24/7, but there is no guarantee from the manufacturer or chiller salesman that the chilled water will insure 100% DO saturation nor prevent low oxygen crisis or root rot outbreaks. Why not? That’s a no-brainer.

If operated correctly and run 24/7 there will be 100% DO according to the chart.

The water chiller business is thriving and treating root rot is thriving and a very popular topic year after year after year.

***Gorgy, you have no RDWC/DWC experience, but in your opinion… why isn’t fungal outbreak prevention working using plenty of air and cold, chilled nutrient solution?

Because it is only prevention, and prevention doesn't always work if the parameters move outside the safe zone even briefly, and the fungi get a foot hold.........then firefighting kick in!

.....and I have plenty experience with aquaculture which is a whole other ballgame when it comes to a life sustaining water environment.

Reason I have no experience with DWC is simply because I refuse to get a water chiller due to the power consumption which is major headache and threat to living quietly and stealthily. I can't keep the floor temperature in my grow rooms cold enough by ventilation alone.
 
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