The Definitive Colloidal Silver Tutorial

  • Thread starter Thread starter Epic Genetics
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ok new experiment and stuff figured out ,,,,,,,

i made a batch with the wires quite close , approx 1/4 inch appart

the C.S. was colored badly (others mention theirs color when mine is always crystal clear) , it was so yellow it looked like rusty water , also the adaptor was HOT when i unplugged it , it has never been hot before (even when making 1 gallon batches that took 3 days plugged in) and the batch i made after this test the adaptor was not hot

lesson learnt , be careful when making c.s and do not have the wires closeer then 1 inch appart or you might get a discolored solution and might possibly start a fire

peace :Cool:
 
Just saw this Bob! Thanks so much for the input and the duly noted warning!!!!
 
Hey b0b I got a question for you..

I have noticed that some autos reverse easier with a slightly stronger batch of cs and some photos need a weaker version. I had a hell of a time getting my Black Russian (photo) to reverse and had to make a very mild batch and a normal batch then mix together 50/50 to reverse it without killing it.
Have you had similar results with any strains? Do you sometimes find you have to adjust the strength of your cs depending on the strain you reverse?

As you probably know I use 9v batteries and use a laser pointer to determined strength of my cs. Also got some stuff to make sts and am going to do a side by side vs cs.
 
Hey b0b I got a question for you..

I have noticed that some autos reverse easier with a slightly stronger batch of cs and some photos need a weaker version. I had a hell of a time getting my Black Russian (photo) to reverse and had to make a very mild batch and a normal batch then mix together 50/50 to reverse it without killing it.
Have you had similar results with any strains? Do you sometimes find you have to adjust the strength of your cs depending on the strain you reverse?

As you probably know I use 9v batteries and use a laser pointer to determined strength of my cs. Also got some stuff to make sts and am going to do a side by side vs cs.

honestly i think its over watering stress , i just reversed a kush that i didnt have to water for well over a week , and to be really honest , i only watered it to make sure the roots didnt shrivle up , the plant looked fine , in soil/soiless it is so easy to stunt them by watering like you normally would , once stunted they take twice as long to reverse and yes even die

ive reversed sister clones of my kush many times now , sometimes a strong solution and sometimes mild , results have always been the same except the couple/few times ive over watered

hope this helps ya , its the only thing i could think of that resembles (to me) what you mentioned

peace :Cool:
 
Thanks b0b. That could have been the problem. I'll try another black Russian with a stronger batch and not water as often and let you know if it helped.
 
Thanks b0b. That could have been the problem. I'll try another black Russian with a stronger batch and not water as often and let you know if it helped.

that would be great

peace :Cool:
 
Is this because they are absorbing water through their leaves or because the soil is indeed getting watered through the spray?
 
Is this because they are absorbing water through their leaves or because the soil is indeed getting watered through the spray?

a bit of both , but mostly the foliar watering

peace :Cool:
 
Thanks Bob!

Had a nightmare of a time trying to get a plant to change. I swapped the hydro in my cab out and just put soil pots in. The plant is growing great but only at 2 weeks.

One gallon reservoirs just aren't good for hydro set ups. They would get to a certain height and start to fail from PH swings and nute deficiencies... Frustrating but at least I am on the right track. It does confuse me that the Aerogarden does seem to do a great job and it's what I start every seed I have in, but then transplant it into DWC. It's rez is one gallon as well. I suppose it's because I don't keep the plants in it to flowering, just to start them. I am happy with the soil however, I will be able to take the plant out and to the bathroom to spray in the shower and just stick it back into the cab. Growing in soil should keep the reversed plants on the smaller side as well and I plan to only use the cab to reverse plants in.

I even tried to take two clones from my Jack Herer that is finally starting to flower in the big bucket but they immediately started flowering and died after rooting, even though the mother plant was not flowering at all. It must be a stress response....
 
ok id like to put a rumor to rest , ill actually post this at the start of the thread as well so hopefully everyone will see it and we can avoid back n forth squabbles about it , im also aware this is about useing it on plants not people but the subject has come up ,,,,,,,


One of the concerns about taking colloidal silver is a skin condition called argyria. Argyria is a condition where the skin turns grey or blue-grey. It is a real condition and it is difficult to reverse, but it is not caused by pure colloidal silver.
Let us define "colloidal silver" as: a solution made with pure silver wires (e.g. at least 99.95% pure silver), mixed with pure distilled water, and absolutely nothing is added to the water (i.e. no salt, no minerals, no nothing).
With this definition of colloidal silver, argyria is not possible. Argyria is caused by using silver compounds (meaning non-silver molecules are mixed with the silver or something is mixed with the water). Essentially argyria is caused by impurities in the mixture.
If a silver compound is called "colloidal silver," the vendor doesn't know what they are doing and probably doesn't care. The problem is with poor vendors, not with true and pure colloidal silver. That is one major reason to make it yourself.
It is essential to use distilled water, distilled by water distillation, when making colloidal silver. Do NOT add salt or minerals to the water or it may cause the skin discoloration. When the colloidal silver is made, if it is not consumed immediately (as soon as it cools down if useing heat), it should be stored in a dark colored glass bottle and the glass bottle or jar must be stored in a dark place (but do NOT refrigerate it). Silver will chemically react to light (technically it is more complicated than that).
NEVER, NEVER get your silver from a jeweler because their sterling silver has nickel and copper added to it!! Using sterling silver can cause serious health problems. Silver nitrate and silver chloride should obviously be avoided since neither are pure silver.

peace :Cool:
 
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