The Definitive Colloidal Silver Tutorial

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[FONT=geneva, arial, helvetica]Other procedures used in producing colloidal silver that involve a simple mixture of metal and liquid (grind process) cannot possess as much potential as electro-colloids and are therefore of questionable value. The proper electrical process allows silver particles to be drawn off the ingot that are much smaller than four one-thousandths of an inch diameter. If the silver particles are within the range of four one-hundred-thousands to four one-millionths of an inch in diameter, and are uniformly charged, a stabilizer is not required to keep the particles suspended. The repelling magnetic force will offset the pull of gravity on the particles, which are animated by "Brownian Movement", and remain in suspension in a liquid medium almost indefinitely, their stability depending on the size of' the particles, the medium used and the manufacturing process employed.[/FONT]


https://www.autoflower.org/content/236-colloidal-silver-particle-size.html

https://www.autoflower.org/content/168-making-colloidal-silver.html

:2cents:

see also: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_from=R40&_nkw=silver ingot&_sop=15
 
I wanted to know if anyone else has used tiresias mist. I have told people on this site about it but my testing is only 50% complete. I have produced pollen from a female plant and have a bunch of seeds that I produced from that pollen. I now have 15 plants about three weeks old from those seeds and I still need to see sexing and that that is no hermi problems. I should see sexing very soon. I should also mention that the 3 weeks is including the seeding stage so I suppose the plants are more like 1.5-2 weeks old. I will let people know what I find out but any one else who could share some of there experiences with me would be greatly appreciated.
 
something im figuring out with c.s useage ,,,,,,,,

this latest project i carefully followed the guidlines i learnt from , i began spraying the plant 2 weeks before putting it into 12/12 or flowering , nowthen , i continued spraying dayly and i STILL witnessed a few female pistils developing before any male parts appeared , this was just a few days ago , already the pistils are dieing quickly and im seeing new male flowers developing quickly

so what im getting at is this ,,,,, i am starting to believe spraying the plant before switching to 12/12 is just a waste of C.S and that the c.s is only effective when the plant is actually in flowering mode , ideas of the silver being there before that and doing its job or built up in the plant ready to do its job are looking to me like false info

i need to replenish my seed stock as i supply myself as well as many med patients with free seeds , but once ive done so i will try a run with only spraying the plant from the first day of 12/12 and until the pollin is about to drop , i will find out if the spraying beforehand is a benefit or a waste

please dont take my word for this just yet as i could be wrong and havent tested this theory , it truely does look this way to me , but im not yet able to prove it , right now its just theory

peace :cool:
 
Mr. Bob question for you, how long do you usually spray for? Until the sacs appear and the hairs stop growing? Would that be enough? Or do you keep spraying until pollen drops?
 
im sure that would be long enough , but to be safe (prolly wasteful) i spray untill i figure pollin will drop within a day or 3

ill be experimenting more in the near future to find out how little spraying can be done

peace :cool:
 
Hi everyone esp. Bob-still reading all of the posts in this thread but I have two questions. Were to obtain medical silver wire-I'm in the states and back woods at that! Second how do I make my raw silver colloid from the generator into a 40ppm stock? Will this require a meter-is there other methods than a meter? Thanks I've got some seeds to make and in time for spring-- and I have a plant or two that this could be tried on.
edit: sorry got to "The C S Guy" so now it would just be getting my spray to 40 ppm-- or what ever you guys have found to be reliable.
 
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Hi everyone esp. Bob-still reading all of the posts in this thread but I have two questions. Were to obtain medical silver wire-I'm in the states and back woods at that! Second how do I make my raw silver colloid from the generator into a 40ppm stock? Will this require a meter-is there other methods than a meter? Thanks I've got some seeds to make and in time for spring-- and I have a plant or two that this could be tried on.
edit: sorry got to "The C S Guy" so now it would just be getting my spray to 40 ppm-- or what ever you guys have found to be reliable.

if you dont have a ppm meter simply run the generator for 8 hours to maybe 12 hours , use a cheap lazer pointer (sold at pet stores and dollar stores as toys to use when playing with your cats/pets) , shine the lazer pointers beam through your cs solution (in a dark room when possible) if you see a lot of spakles in the beam thats shooting through the water/solution then you should be good , if you see very few sparkles then give the generator more time

be advized though , giving too much time results in higher conductivity in the water due to the particles in it , higher conductivity creates bigger coloids/particles that we do not want , giving too much time can also cause "smashing" , the smaller particles smash into each other merging into one larger coloid/particle

best of luck and peace :cool:

EDIT : when making large batches of c.s (1 gallon) ive run the generator for 3 days n nights , the results were fine and the solution worked even after 5 months
 
Thank you I've been researching--and the set up is to run the stated voltage and current no mater what electrodes size or batch size. Running longer produces larger particles and so less effective. Your gallon batch stays in the right because it takes longer for the silver concentration to rise and it's the drop in resistance of the solution as more silver is added that results in larger particle formation. Several points still need clarification-the addition of a hydrogen peroxide catalyst prior to spraying- the use of a surfactant or wetting agent- and should the under surface of the leaves be sprayed. Readers should note that stems and leaves sprayed to run off is specified.
Once someone checks the resistance of the solution at the proper end point and states what the resistance and test particulars are I bet a end point resistance can be established and checked with a cheap multi or ohm meter.

P.S. Hydrogen peroxide and a surfactant? Sounds like a fun kids science project!
 
Will the old u.s. mercury head dimes work? Only ask cause I have tons of them.
 
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