realcarlos
newbie
Got this from the BubblePonics Forum.
Credit goes to: dirtinmyears
Original thread: http://bubbleponics.com/forum/showthread.php?4507-The-CFL-12-Pack-DIY
This was my original design that I did using Sketchup. I have since modified it to be air-cooled so that I could run a few larger 42W bulbs. I'll lay the basic design down if you want to just run 23W bulbs or you can air-cool those as well and heat will never be an issue.
**Please note, you will be working with power tools and electricity. Be safe and have fun with it!**
Tools Used:
Cordless Drill
Chop/Miter Saw
Wire Strippers
Wire Crimpers
Hammer
Materials Used/Needed:
1 PC. 2x4, cut to 24 5/8"
1 PC. 1/4" - 1/2" Plywood cut to 23"x15 3/4" (I used a piece of scrap 1/4" particle board I had that was shorter than the full width, the demensions given are for a true fit)
1 10' White vinyl rain gutter cut into 12, 7" PCS.
12 light socket cleats
12, 1/2" wood screws
28 Drywall screws
24 Blue ring terminals (16-14 GA.)
8' extension cord (14/2)
2 Screw Eyes
~10' of 14 GA wire cut to the following:
12 PCS cut to ~4"
12 PCS cut to ~6"
2 wire nuts (I love the beige ones, good for 18-8 AWG)
1, 1/2" staple
12, 23W CFL's (I am going to run 8 6500K /4 2700K for Veg, and reverse for Flower)
After cutting the 2x4 and the top pc, screw the top piece to the 2x4 using 4 of the drywall screws. (The 2x4 is longer for a reason, just center the top section)
Cut the rain gutter into 12, 7" pieces:
Lay the wood top down and evenly place the 7" sections along the 2x4 and fasten to the top sheet with one 1/2" screw per piece (12 total):
Install the light socket cleats with the remaining screws. I drew the center line along the length of the 2x4 then centered each socket in the gutters as so:
Now pull up a chair, sit down and start cutting and splicing the wires:
Install the wires:
Cut the female end off of the extension cord and pull the two wires ~3" apart, then strip the ends and connect them. NOTE: the skinny prong on a two-prong plug is the "HOT" and the fatter one is the NEUTRAL. The "HOT" side of the light socket is usually indicated by a darker color metal, in my case the hot side was "Gold" and the neutral is "Silver". Make sure you connect the right wires to each other. You should end up with 2 groups of 3 wires each. 2 from the pos and 2 neg terminals, and one from each side of the ext. cord.
Then get out that heavy duty staple and hammer it to the 2x4 making sure to only SNUG it up to the wood! Don't beat the heck out of it or you can damage/cut the wire.
Now flip the fixture over and install the screw eyes in that little spot we left on top of the 2x4:
Install your bulbs, plug that girl in and enjoy!
**To Air-Cool This Fixture I Did The Following**
If you plan on air-cooling the hood, drill holes before mounting to 2X4.
1/2" holes were drilled in top piece to allow air to flow between the gutters.
Holes were also drilled in the gutters to vent heat from the cleats.
I attached 1X2's cut to length of top sheet. 10, 1/2" Screws were installed from underneath. 3 screws for each long pc. And 2 screws for the short pcs. I used 4 more screws to attach the 1x2's together as shown. The Arrows represent the airflow between the gutters and air is also taken in from the two holes in each gutter.
The top piece has the same demensions as the bottom. I cut an ~6" hole in the center to mount the ducting and attached it with 4, 1/2" screws. The hole was a bit smaller then the duct so I pulled the duct through the hole and used aluminum tape to hold it. You can also attach a duct flange like the green one shown here. My exhaust fan is right above the flange.
I have a 6", 250CFM fan pulling air through the fixture to cool it and at the same time exhausting my room. The ehaust dumps into the attic and out the second story of my house
Credit goes to: dirtinmyears
Original thread: http://bubbleponics.com/forum/showthread.php?4507-The-CFL-12-Pack-DIY
This was my original design that I did using Sketchup. I have since modified it to be air-cooled so that I could run a few larger 42W bulbs. I'll lay the basic design down if you want to just run 23W bulbs or you can air-cool those as well and heat will never be an issue.
**Please note, you will be working with power tools and electricity. Be safe and have fun with it!**
Tools Used:
Cordless Drill
Chop/Miter Saw
Wire Strippers
Wire Crimpers
Hammer
Materials Used/Needed:
1 PC. 2x4, cut to 24 5/8"
1 PC. 1/4" - 1/2" Plywood cut to 23"x15 3/4" (I used a piece of scrap 1/4" particle board I had that was shorter than the full width, the demensions given are for a true fit)
1 10' White vinyl rain gutter cut into 12, 7" PCS.
12 light socket cleats
12, 1/2" wood screws
28 Drywall screws
24 Blue ring terminals (16-14 GA.)
8' extension cord (14/2)
2 Screw Eyes
~10' of 14 GA wire cut to the following:
12 PCS cut to ~4"
12 PCS cut to ~6"
2 wire nuts (I love the beige ones, good for 18-8 AWG)
1, 1/2" staple
12, 23W CFL's (I am going to run 8 6500K /4 2700K for Veg, and reverse for Flower)
After cutting the 2x4 and the top pc, screw the top piece to the 2x4 using 4 of the drywall screws. (The 2x4 is longer for a reason, just center the top section)
Cut the rain gutter into 12, 7" pieces:
Lay the wood top down and evenly place the 7" sections along the 2x4 and fasten to the top sheet with one 1/2" screw per piece (12 total):
Install the light socket cleats with the remaining screws. I drew the center line along the length of the 2x4 then centered each socket in the gutters as so:
Now pull up a chair, sit down and start cutting and splicing the wires:
Install the wires:
Cut the female end off of the extension cord and pull the two wires ~3" apart, then strip the ends and connect them. NOTE: the skinny prong on a two-prong plug is the "HOT" and the fatter one is the NEUTRAL. The "HOT" side of the light socket is usually indicated by a darker color metal, in my case the hot side was "Gold" and the neutral is "Silver". Make sure you connect the right wires to each other. You should end up with 2 groups of 3 wires each. 2 from the pos and 2 neg terminals, and one from each side of the ext. cord.
Then get out that heavy duty staple and hammer it to the 2x4 making sure to only SNUG it up to the wood! Don't beat the heck out of it or you can damage/cut the wire.
Now flip the fixture over and install the screw eyes in that little spot we left on top of the 2x4:
Install your bulbs, plug that girl in and enjoy!
**To Air-Cool This Fixture I Did The Following**
If you plan on air-cooling the hood, drill holes before mounting to 2X4.
1/2" holes were drilled in top piece to allow air to flow between the gutters.
Holes were also drilled in the gutters to vent heat from the cleats.
I attached 1X2's cut to length of top sheet. 10, 1/2" Screws were installed from underneath. 3 screws for each long pc. And 2 screws for the short pcs. I used 4 more screws to attach the 1x2's together as shown. The Arrows represent the airflow between the gutters and air is also taken in from the two holes in each gutter.
The top piece has the same demensions as the bottom. I cut an ~6" hole in the center to mount the ducting and attached it with 4, 1/2" screws. The hole was a bit smaller then the duct so I pulled the duct through the hole and used aluminum tape to hold it. You can also attach a duct flange like the green one shown here. My exhaust fan is right above the flange.
I have a 6", 250CFM fan pulling air through the fixture to cool it and at the same time exhausting my room. The ehaust dumps into the attic and out the second story of my house
