Still burning at 300ppm

What media are you growing in?

I cannot with any confidence recommend anything because there is no way to know what is actually in the pot. Maybe the 9-17-25 but once again this is just a guess and I don't think a very good one at that? I cannot tell if you have overfed or under fed because the results looks nearly the same.


I am currently running The GreenLeaf 2 part Mega Crop. along with some basic Bio-stimulants. I grow hydro it is a lot of work but I always know what I am feeding my plants.
Being in soil now I do miss some aspects of hydro. Minus the work part. Lol. But I do miss being able to dial the hydro in. The sweet spot. I can't check it in soil like I cud easily in hydro. Lol I dig the simplicity of soil but i think I'm going to try some coco coir soon. Then down the road I'll grow in hydro again just a 4 bucket dwc set up. I'm going to attempt my first organic grow outdoors this summer with some dj short blueberry clones I will start indoors and transplant outdoors when the weather permits. So I will soon master all main 4 growing methods within a year. Hydro, soil, coco, & organic. Indoor and outdoor also. Will be my first outdoor grow this summer. Thank god for the camp. Lol have 12 outdoors there and 12 indoors at home. And gonna try 2 cycles of 12 autoflowers in the woods also for a total of 24 thru the summer. I'll start the first 12 indoors and start the 2nd 12 outdoors when weather permits.
 
Being in soil now I do miss some aspects of hydro. Minus the work part. Lol. But I do miss being able to dial the hydro in. The sweet spot. I can't check it in soil like I cud easily in hydro. Lol I dig the simplicity of soil but i think I'm going to try some coco coir soon. Then down the road I'll grow in hydro again just a 4 bucket dwc set up. I'm going to attempt my first organic grow outdoors this summer with some dj short blueberry clones I will start indoors and transplant outdoors when the weather permits. So I will soon master all main 4 growing methods within a year. Hydro, soil, coco, & organic. Indoor and outdoor also. Will be my first outdoor grow this summer. Thank god for the camp. Lol have 12 outdoors there and 12 indoors at home. And gonna try 2 cycles of 12 autoflowers in the woods also for a total of 24 thru the summer. I'll start the first 12 indoors and start the 2nd 12 outdoors when weather permits.
Yes, hydro is an every day job enjoyment. Coco is hydro. With enough money you can fully automate hydro for all inputs you still have to tend to the plant for growth and training. I enjoy having a reason to get off my ass and this chair. Are we Hy-jacking a thread Oops sorry
 
I used to grow hydro dwc with flora trio. My buddy used Lucas formula in dwc b4 me. What is your starting ppm of your water? Are you using .500 hannah scale for measuring ppm? If your plant is drinking water and the ppm are staying the same means the plant is in its sweet spot as far as how much nutes it needs. I used to go up to 500ppm and not much past or I'd get burn on my plants when I grew hydro with GH flora trio. Are you adding any supplements or adding anything other than Lucas formula? I used 0ppm ro water. Then I'd add 150ppm of gh calimagic. Then I'd add my base nutes up to 500ppm for a total of 350ppm of nutes. Then I'd add hydroguard to protect them roots. How are your roots doing? Healthy? Smell good? More details and I may be able to help you from experience.
First thank you for such thoughtful detailed responses. I greatly appreciate it and will in turn help others as I become more experienced and knowledgable. I start with RO water that is about 5ppm. I'm using a Vivosun TDS/EC meter, I can't seem to find what scale it uses, no mention of it on Vivosuns website. Over the course of 24 hours my ppm's can ebb and flow between about 290ppm and 315ppm at my current inappropriate nutrients levels. The whole system holds 50 gallons of water and I only have 10ml of GH CaliMagic in the whole 50 gallons so only about 0.2ml per gal plus the 3ml micro and 6ml bloom plus 2ml per gal of Hydroguard. Roots seem very healthy, water temp usually holding a pretty steady 69F but has swayed between 66F and at one point as high as 73F but not for long. The last 6 weeks it never got above 70F.
 
First thank you for such thoughtful detailed responses. I greatly appreciate it and will in turn help others as I become more experienced and knowledgable. I start with RO water that is about 5ppm. I'm using a Vivosun TDS/EC meter, I can't seem to find what scale it uses, no mention of it on Vivosuns website. Over the course of 24 hours my ppm's can ebb and flow between about 290ppm and 315ppm at my current inappropriate nutrients levels. The whole system holds 50 gallons of water and I only have 10ml of GH CaliMagic in the whole 50 gallons so only about 0.2ml per gal plus the 3ml micro and 6ml bloom plus 2ml per gal of Hydroguard. Roots seem very healthy, water temp usually holding a pretty steady 69F but has swayed between 66F and at one point as high as 73F but not for long. The last 6 weeks it never got above 70F.
Your very welcome. I wud guess hannah scale for your ppm meter which is .500 scale. Yes water temps are important if your not using hydroguard above 72 and root rot can set in and kill your plants very fast. I've had it happen and lost my whole first crop due to pythium when I started in hydro so it was a lesson learned the hard way. I always use hydroguard in hydro to protect the roots from root rot (pythium). I also used to use Recharge for bennies on res change day b4 I'd change my res id top feed each plant and then change reservoirs about an hour or half hour later. I wud seriously add up to 125 to 150 ppm of calimagic first then your base nutes to bring it up to 500 ppm. I am really thinking it's a lock out cus not enough cal mag and nutes. Once you do that monitor your res daily. Remember about the ph drift. Ppm going up means too much nutes in the water and plants want less cuz they're drinking the water and leaving the nutes behind cuz it's too strong for them. Ppm going down means not enough nutes. Your plant is drinking more nutes than water this means cuz it doesnt have appropriate balance it needs and wants. Ppm stays the same your in the sweet spot and that means the plants are happy and drinking the water and nutrients together so its stable that means. Best advice I can give you in hydro. After your 1st year of growing you'll learn a lot from us and a lot on your own as well. You'll learn what to do and what not to do. It gets easier and becomes second nature like tying your shoes. Before you know it you will be helping others as people are doing for you now. Happy growin!
 
I like all the work associated with growing and hydro in particular, I think the tech and gadgets are kinda cool. When I started this I knew hydro would be more difficult to learn, but figured the payoff would be worth it when I did master it. I did not realize a lot of what I read about auto's being easier than photo's was pretty much bullshit spewed by people repeating stuff they don't understand and marketing. In fact one of my motivations to start growing was having something to do till I find a new job. But I'm starting the third grow (in a new second tent) of my career right now and I'm feeling good about it. In this grow I will be using a Rockwool drain to waste setup so I don't have to worry about ph swing and the nutes getting out of balance in the reservoir.

Its funny that you mention the first year because when I started I told myself that no matter what went wrong I would give it a full year.
 
happy holiday update
Just to let those who helped me know, I adopted all the above mentioned recommendation's and while some leaves actually look worse the buds have fattened up real nicely. I think some of those leaves were too far gone to help when I made the adjustments. They are 90 days old today and I'm thinking probably a NYE harvest. Night and day difference between my first and second grows, number three I'm putting it all together for an awesome grow.
 
My hydro experience is that plants need very little food at the end, so 300 ppm (EC= 0.6 I assume) isn't that low.
They also need less light as flowering progresses, which is the case in nature as sunlight weakens during fall.
My GUESS is that you overfed a few weeks ago, and now the harm from that has become obvious.
(That happened to me a few weeks ago at EC = 1.2, and the over-feeding look persists right now, even at EC = 0.8.)

The good news is that harvest is approaching, and plants can take a lot of abuse.

Here's a feeding strategy that will get you in the correct feeding ball park.
If ppm rises from day to day, plants are drinking more than eating, so reduce ppm.
If ppm drops from day to day, plants are eating more than drinking, so increase ppm.

Too much food and/or light will harm health and reduce size and quality of yield.

If those were my plants I'd keep ppm where it is, and reduce light.
 
I am far from an expert, but to me, they look pretty good for ≥80 days. At 80 days, I'd expect any auto to look somewhat ugly. Compared to what I would usually have at 80 days, your plants are rather green, still photosynthesizing, still have fattening-up to do vs. my (and many others') usual much more yellow leaves, if the leaves haven't already fallen off.

And at ≥80 days with autos, I presume there's really not much that can be done to affect the overall outcome.
 
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