Spotting help! Plz

[Cannalove420]

that GO is fine,... citric acid is fine too if needed, but it won't be with DI water or any low ppm water,... again, what are you growing in, soil or soilless media?
...too close lighting will badly affect Ca issues!

Hopefully the light stress will get better since I took down the 300watt and am just using the 150watt

 

[Waira]

you can blend, but get a ppm reading on it,... 125 or so is a nice balance,...

 

[Cannalove420]

you can blend, but get a ppm reading on it,... 125 or so is a nice balance,...

I just want to make sure, so your saying I should not ph my water to bring down soil ph? I’m assuming I only ph the water if over 7? When I was watering with a ph of 6.5 it would come out at 7.9

 

[Waira]

I just want to make sure, so your saying I should not ph my water to bring down soil ph? I’m assuming I only ph the water if over 7? When I was watering with a ph of 6.5 it would come out at 7.9

my bad, I missed that! So, some weird stuff happening here,... how long were you using the well water? You were adding Ca-Mg to that too? That run-off pH is crazy high!
...let's first confirm that your pH meter is recently calibrated.... Given the symptoms, or the lack of certain ones caused by badly alkaline in-pot pH, I'm having some doubts about it,... get us whole plant pics in normal light please...
OF soil is dubious indeed, very spotty quality these days,.. usually though it badly acidic! And you added in this NLS amendment to make a "water only" deal?
....OK, this is a mess mate... even though run-off can't be used as a reliable measure of true in-pot pH, it can give clues about if things are way off in there,... IF the meter is OK, the course of action is one thing,.. if it's not, it'll likely be something else entirely... worse, you can't flush with this soil or it ain't water only anymore!
We are stuck on this vital info mate, an in-pot pH reading has to be taken.... You need a soil pH probe, something like the (Control Wizard) Accurate 8 or whatever other brand name this unit is sold under...(Gain Express,... Amazon will show the others... same unit, big price diff's though! )... don't bother with the cheapo skinny probe types, they are garbage....
This said, the hard water plus the amendment plus the Ca-Mg has likely overloaded the Ca in there, along with other cations like Mg that start to interfere with uptake of each other...

>>>> do you still have some of the soil mix around? You can take a slurry test for pH of it, if your meter is OK,.... 1c soil, 1.5c low ppm water, RO/Di, drinking,.... mix together, let sit for 1/2hour, stir occasionally lightly, strain off liquid and test.....

 

[Cannalove420]

my bad, I missed that! So, some weird stuff happening here,... how long were you using the well water? You were adding Ca-Mg to that too? That run-off pH is crazy high!
...let's first confirm that your pH meter is recently calibrated.... Given the symptoms, or the lack of certain ones caused by badly alkaline in-pot pH, I'm having some doubts about it,... get us whole plant pics in normal light please...
OF soil is dubious indeed, very spotty quality these days,.. usually though it badly acidic! And you added in this NLS amendment to make a "water only" deal?
....OK, this is a mess mate... even though run-off can't be used as a reliable measure of true in-pot pH, it can give clues about if things are way off in there,... IF the meter is OK, the course of action is one thing,.. if it's not, it'll likely be something else entirely... worse, you can't flush with this soil or it ain't water only anymore!
We are stuck on this vital info mate, an in-pot pH reading has to be taken.... You need a soil pH probe, something like the (Control Wizard) Accurate 8 or whatever other brand name this unit is sold under...(Gain Express,... Amazon will show the others... same unit, big price diff's though! )... don't bother with the cheapo skinny probe types, they are garbage....
This said, the hard water plus the amendment plus the Ca-Mg has likely overloaded the Ca in there, along with other cations like Mg that start to interfere with uptake of each other...

>>>> do you still have some of the soil mix around? You can take a slurry test for pH of it, if your meter is OK,.... 1c soil, 1.5c low ppm water, RO/Di, drinking,.... mix together, let sit for 1/2hour, stir occasionally lightly, strain off liquid and test.....

No I was adding the cal mag to the distilled water. I didn’t use the cal mag while using well water. I’m afraid there in to small of pots and I didn’t add enough amendment to the mix? I should have mixed it with the whole pot. What should the runoff ppm be? I wouldn’t be able to do a slurry test bc of the feeder roots but I did take a slurry before I planted. It was something like 7.0 in and 6.8 out. Are runoff ph accurate with a digital meter, or can be used to get an understanding?. I’ll give a little back story to what happen. I was watering everyday when the pots were light with ph of 6.8-7.0 300ppm tap water up until it started flowering around day 30-40 when I noticed a few brown specs here and there and someone mentioned On a forum named emilya that it may need calcium/mag but I thought it was maybe a buildup of calcium from the hard water so I did a minor flush and watered with 80% distilled water and 20% well water to buffer the ph. A week later I notice the yellowing progressing and the other plant was becoming yellow all over and what to me at the time seemed hungry so I went out and the guys at the hydro shop said that the plants were hungry and that the tap root hit the bottom long before flowering and used up the food since it’s in a 1 gal. So he suggested some liquid guano to feed once a week and pbp. So I follow the directions on the pbp and feed at 5 ml to a gallon with 5ml to the distilled water and ph up to 6.8 within a few days the one plant (gorilla glue) was getting its color back but it looked to have a blueish greenish “hue” to it. And the gorilla glue spotting seemed to have halted but the lower leaves were still falling off, so I started adding 5ml go cal mag to the distilled water then I checked the runoff and see it’s out of range, so I thought! So I ph with 6.0 and runoff came out still above 7, so the next day I dropped the ph down further to 3.5 and checked the runoff and it’s just below 7 so I steady kept ph”ing at that range for about a week along with feeding a quarter of what the pure blend pro manufacturing recommended. but notice the Lower leaves still dieing and new growth tips yellowing. I haven’t been phing the last couple days. I did check runoff for shits and giggles and it’s over 7 with the water going in at 5.1-5.5. I’ll get some pics up ASAP thanks!

 

[Cannalove420]

my bad, I missed that! So, some weird stuff happening here,... how long were you using the well water? You were adding Ca-Mg to that too? That run-off pH is crazy high!
...let's first confirm that your pH meter is recently calibrated.... Given the symptoms, or the lack of certain ones caused by badly alkaline in-pot pH, I'm having some doubts about it,... get us whole plant pics in normal light please...
OF soil is dubious indeed, very spotty quality these days,.. usually though it badly acidic! And you added in this NLS amendment to make a "water only" deal?
....OK, this is a mess mate... even though run-off can't be used as a reliable measure of true in-pot pH, it can give clues about if things are way off in there,... IF the meter is OK, the course of action is one thing,.. if it's not, it'll likely be something else entirely... worse, you can't flush with this soil or it ain't water only anymore!
We are stuck on this vital info mate, an in-pot pH reading has to be taken.... You need a soil pH probe, something like the (Control Wizard) Accurate 8 or whatever other brand name this unit is sold under...(Gain Express,... Amazon will show the others... same unit, big price diff's though! )... don't bother with the cheapo skinny probe types, they are garbage....
This said, the hard water plus the amendment plus the Ca-Mg has likely overloaded the Ca in there, along with other cations like Mg that start to interfere with uptake of each other...

>>>> do you still have some of the soil mix around? You can take a slurry test for pH of it, if your meter is OK,.... 1c soil, 1.5c low ppm water, RO/Di, drinking,.... mix together, let sit for 1/2hour, stir occasionally lightly, strain off liquid and test.....

Also I just watered with plain distilled water with 5ml cal mag at 222 ppm and runoff was 300 so should I feed Pure Blend Pro Bloom 1-4-6or the liquid guano tomorrow? 05-05-07

 

[Waira]

..did I ask if you have calibrated your ph meter recently, just checking,....
... slurry test is from any left over soil as mentioned, not from your pot because indeed that would shred the poor things!
...straight run-off isn't a reliable indicator of in-pot pH at all,... at best, if it's very close to input pH and that's in OK range, it's close enough,.. if it's waaaay off, then you know at least that (the right) serious corrections have to be made,...

I was watering everyday when the pots were light with ph of 6.8-7.0 300ppm tap water up until it started flowering around day 30-40 when I noticed a few brown specs here and there and someone mentioned On a forum named emilya that it may need calcium/mag but I thought it was maybe a buildup of calcium from the hard water so I did a minor flush and watered with 80% distilled water and 20% well water to buffer the ph

>>> that pH is too high for starters mate, true soil pH needs to be around 6.3-6.5,...300ppm is hard-ass water! .... too much Ca can interferes with uptake of other nutes, but CaCO3 is not that soluble in water, it's needs acidity to breakdown, so while it does offer pH buffering toward neutral pH, it does not provide much actual free Ca++ for uptake... So flushing isn't going to fix the overload of CaCO3,... it will however strip the soil of the other nutes, hence the likely cause of the yellowing,... never flush such "water only" type soils, for this reason,....
Taproot hitting the bottom doesn't mean squat! I'm not sure what the store dewd was driving at, but that's irrelevant,... for example, have you seen the 200 fabric pots used for huge plants? Shaped like a kiddie pool, taproot doesn't get to dive deep, and it doesn't need to,...as long as there's plenty of room for feeder roots to do their job, it's fine.... In that case shop guy is right, the soil got tapped out in that 1gal pot....
.... check the chart here, if you soil pH is off enough either way, P availability will suffer....
--- adding Ca-Mg to the distilled is good- ..... leaves falling off mean they are tapped out, if they were yellowed out, necrotic,.. needs pics of those anyway,....
.... don't use hard core pH solutions to try and force the pH down, this is traumatic to the roots,.. that's it still coming out alkaline confirms that there's serious deposits of CaCO3 in there, the acidity is eating away at it, but then again, that's how the buffering works, it dissolves freeing up the ions to react (mainly forming bicarbonate HCO3- from CO3--)... meantime the roots are saying-- ..... I'd use the PBP because it has a more complete nute profile, and use the bat poo as a PK booster, weak dilutions....
.... best bet: use low ppm water plus Ca-Mg (readily available ions, minimal carbonate), pH to 6.0 if needed (may not be with nutes in there), and ride this out,.. more flushing and flogging may just finish the roots off and that fucks the whole dog then! it does look like you helped it some with those last readings,...

 

[Cannalove420]

..did I ask if you have calibrated your ph meter recently, just checking,....
... slurry test is from any left over soil as mentioned, not from your pot because indeed that would shred the poor things!
...straight run-off isn't a reliable indicator of in-pot pH at all,... at best, if it's very close to input pH and that's in OK range, it's close enough,.. if it's waaaay off, then you know at least that (the right) serious corrections have to be made,...

>>> that pH is too high for starters mate, true soil pH needs to be around 6.3-6.5,...300ppm is hard-ass water! .... too much Ca can interferes with uptake of other nutes, but CaCO3 is not that soluble in water, it's needs acidity to breakdown, so while it does offer pH buffering toward neutral pH, it does not provide much actual free Ca++ for uptake... So flushing isn't going to fix the overload of CaCO3,... it will however strip the soil of the other nutes, hence the likely cause of the yellowing,... never flush such "water only" type soils, for this reason,....
Taproot hitting the bottom doesn't mean squat! I'm not sure what the store dewd was driving at, but that's irrelevant,... for example, have you seen the 200 fabric pots used for huge plants? Shaped like a kiddie pool, taproot doesn't get to dive deep, and it doesn't need to,...as long as there's plenty of room for feeder roots to do their job, it's fine.... In that case shop guy is right, the soil got tapped out in that 1gal pot....
.... check the chart here, if you soil pH is off enough either way, P availability will suffer....
--- adding Ca-Mg to the distilled is good- ..... leaves falling off mean they are tapped out, if they were yellowed out, necrotic,.. needs pics of those anyway,....
.... don't use hard core pH solutions to try and force the pH down, this is traumatic to the roots,.. that's it still coming out alkaline confirms that there's serious deposits of CaCO3 in there, the acidity is eating away at it, but then again, that's how the buffering works, it dissolves freeing up the ions to react (mainly forming bicarbonate HCO3- from CO3--)... meantime the roots are saying-- ..... I'd use the PBP because it has a more complete nute profile, and use the bat poo as a PK booster, weak dilutions....
.... best bet: use low ppm water plus Ca-Mg (readily available ions, minimal carbonate), pH to 6.0 if needed (may not be with nutes in there), and ride this out,.. more flushing and flogging may just finish the roots off and that fucks the whole dog then! it does look like you helped it some with those last readings,...

I’m working at getting some pics up today. I calibrate it before every use since it’s a cheapy, but it does work. Also I’m going to back of the cal mag and not at 5ml to a gallon that ends up being 300 ppm just like my tap. Can the runoff ppm give me a estimate if it needs more feeding or not? Isn’t the ppm in Organics suppose to be high? I watered with regular microbe tea with malasses today the ppm was 225 ph was 6.5 and I checked the runoff for shits and giggles today and the ppm for that was 300 and 7.4 ph. I should also mention I’m no longer ph’ing my water. If it’s below 5.5 should I ph up to let’s say 6.1? Thanks for all your help and I know it’s not easy answering questions with out pics so I’m going to pull them out today and get good pics. The tips of the leaves are starting to turn from yellow to brown but my theory is from the lights being to close. Thanks a lot!

 

[Cannalove420]

I’m working at getting some pics up today. I calibrate it before every use since it’s a cheapy, but it does work. Also I’m going to back of the cal mag and not at 5ml to a gallon that ends up being 300 ppm just like my tap. Can the runoff ppm give me a estimate if it needs more feeding or not? Isn’t the ppm in Organics suppose to be high? I watered with regular microbe tea with malasses today the ppm was 225 ph was 6.5 and I checked the runoff for shits and giggles today and the ppm for that was 300 and 7.4 ph. I should also mention I’m no longer ph’ing my water. If it’s below 5.5 should I ph up to let’s say 6.1? Thanks for all your help and I know it’s not easy answering questions with out pics so I’m going to pull them out today and get good pics. The tips of the leaves are starting to turn from yellow to brown but my theory is from the lights being to close. Thanks a lot!

Forgot to mention I did a slurry test before I planted them in the pots and water went in around neutral and came out a little under what went in.

 

[Waira]

...run-off on water-only soil, honestly I'm not sure what that should be,.. the whole point is to not have to do any of this- .....the microbes help buffer the conversion and slow relelase of the nutes, and many organics don't register well with TDS/EC meters, as they are not charged molecules, which conduct electricity and that's what the TDS/EC is reading,... (TDS is a conversion of EC into ppms, BTW).....
.... run-off indicateds some alkalinity, so don't pH adjust the water,... Any low ppm water-- Ro, Di, even some drinking waters (self fill, bottled), with little to no minerals in it will be rpone to wild pH swings because of this, so don't sweat the pH with such water or nute solutions,...
Roots are not at their best likely, so don't expect any amazing rapid corrections,.... some hammered leaves will croak out anyway!