Spots on one of four seedlings + slow growth, Genetic or disease?

Thanks Chro,
We have pretty hard water here (Calgary, AB) around 250pm according to the city's water quality report. It comes out the tap over 8 Ph. I am hesitant to add additional calcium and I think having to add so much Ph down to get it to 5.5 is messing with the nutrient balance as it is. Once spring comes I will probably collect rainwater and blend it with the filtered tap water, My mother grows orchids and that is what she does.
 
Thanks Chro,
We have pretty hard water here (Calgary, AB) around 250pm according to the city's water quality report. It comes out the tap over 8 Ph. I am hesitant to add additional calcium and I think having to add so much Ph down to get it to 5.5 is messing with the nutrient balance as it is. Once spring comes I will probably collect rainwater and blend it with the filtered tap water, My mother grows orchids and that is what she does.
No worries, my water is similar, it is hard and over 200 ppm but I learned on my 1st grow that the combination of DWC and LED lights makes the girls Calmag fiends so I would advise to start using it or at least have a bottle sitting in the cupboard just in case as I can almost guarantee you will need it, IMO though prevention is better then cure so I now use it from day 1 to finish, the majority of issues most people have are calcium or magnesium deficiencies but entirely up to you! Good luck bro and keep us posted :pass:
 
Sounds like good advice, I will pick some up. Out of curiosity, how much Ph down do you typically need to reach your target ph? What nutrients do you use?
 
Sounds like good advice, I will pick some up. Out of curiosity, how much Ph down do you typically need to reach your target ph? What nutrients do you use?
My tap water starts at 7.4, after I add my nutrients it's around 6.4, I then ph down to 0.6 lower then my target number e.g if I want my ph to be 5.8 then I ph down to 5.2 as once the water become oxygenated from the airstone it makes the ph rise, I use a UK brand of nutrients called Shogun for this run but previously I used the Canna Aqua line up and liked them, I've heard Remo and DutchPro are also very good, I would say though that it's better to stick with the whole range of 1 brand rather then mixing and matching as they have been developed to work with each other! Also I use a syringe to measure my nutrients going in.
 
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Thanks Chro,
We have pretty hard water here (Calgary, AB) around 250pm according to the city's water quality report. It comes out the tap over 8 Ph. I am hesitant to add additional calcium and I think having to add so much Ph down to get it to 5.5 is messing with the nutrient balance as it is. Once spring comes I will probably collect rainwater and blend it with the filtered tap water, My mother grows orchids and that is what she does.

My tap is 8.5 and 300 ppm straight from tap. Let sit 48hrs it balances out to 152 and 7 ph. I use nothing but tap. I have 30gals at all times ready to go. I don't add calmag until around 3rd week using tap with plants right before preflower stretch. Seems to really need calmag when in flower though.
 
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Also new growth will be yellow when they grow fast. It's when they stay yellow is the problem. So let me leaves grow out then check color.
 
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Thanks for the advice guys! I have been thinking of adding a storage tank to let the water off gas before mixing (and eventually a float switch to auto top off the rez). Do you put an airstone or pump in the tank to keep it fron being stagnant or is it fine to let it settle out?
One new question: last night one of my four plants' roots finally grew down into the water in the bucket it, almost immediately after the root reached the water most of the leaves drooped and the bottom leaves were quite soft and just laying on the hydrotron. The new growth was sticking straight up and praying nicely but the older leave were looking like an overwatered plant. Is it normal for the plant to droop a bit when transitioning into growing in the water? It is looking a little better this morning. It is the first one to reach the water and if it is a water problem I need to fix it before the others catch up. I read that overwatered symptoms in dwc usually mean ppm is too low, I have it at 1/4 strength for the AN nutes i am using, do you think I need to increase the dose?
 
Sorry I'm not sure about top off tanks, I don't have a lot of space so everything I do is manual with buckets :frowny: but I would think it would be better to have an airstone in it.
Wouldn't worry to much about the leaves drooping a bit at this stage, just measure your ppm in the bucket everyday to see if it's rising or falling and this will tell you if you need to up or lower the feed :greenthumb:
 
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Yeah I need to get a TDS meter and Ph too, just using the GH liquid drops for ph right now.
 
Thanks for the advice guys! I have been thinking of adding a storage tank to let the water off gas before mixing (and eventually a float switch to auto top off the rez). Do you put an airstone or pump in the tank to keep it fron being stagnant or is it fine to let it settle out?
One new question: last night one of my four plants' roots finally grew down into the water in the bucket it, almost immediately after the root reached the water most of the leaves drooped and the bottom leaves were quite soft and just laying on the hydrotron. The new growth was sticking straight up and praying nicely but the older leave were looking like an overwatered plant. Is it normal for the plant to droop a bit when transitioning into growing in the water? It is looking a little better this morning. It is the first one to reach the water and if it is a water problem I need to fix it before the others catch up. I read that overwatered symptoms in dwc usually mean ppm is too low, I have it at 1/4 strength for the AN nutes i am using, do you think I need to increase the dose?
Water level should be 1 inch below net pots. 4to5 sounds crazy. Yes i would run air stone for sure but I'm running single site dwc.
 
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