Mephisto Genetics Sour Bubbly and White´n Bubbly as a replacement for the Sour Hound

[Cringer]

Watch this:

 

[Dudeski]

6.0 to 6.3, coco is about 5.8. The nute mix should get buffered by the soil and get into the appropriate range. We all have different ideas, it's why I said early on to post in the infirmary. I will leave this alone as to not be more confusing. Changing to much back and forth causes more issues. Lights too close cause problems that look like deficiency.

 

[KonopCh]

You will not loose your plants, look at my WW XXL to see what is more terrible than your problem. And they are sailing nicely...

 

[Cringer]

I test my water with nutrients again 5.9!!! Know I think where the problems come from.

 

[Cringer]

The runoff Ph 6.3. Why the Ph is lower than I put in with 6.8? Maybe the rest incorrect water Ph from last watering? Next time bigger flush?

 

[epenguin]

That is a great start.........keep it up chum.........eP.

 

[Farmer Dee]

:smoking:Hi Andi! I’ll suggest this to help you prevent this from reoccurring. Don’t use tap water at all until final flush, if you flush at all. Aim for 6.3-6.8 even as high as 7 ph in soil and forget the runoff. There are too many variables that factor into runoff. Its easier to ensure that your ph going in the medium is on point than it is coming out.

Tap water has been the single most reason my grows resulted in necrotic leaves and ph swings. Distilled water/bottled water is ok for soil just make sure you have good calmag inputs. You'll see yellow leaves soon without it. Bottled water never let me down in a pinch. As a matter of fact, I now go to a “water store” to have it bottled in 5 gallon bottles vs buying single gallons from the grocery store. I can’t keep adding 30 plus 1 gallon plastic bottles per grow to this beautiful planet, that’s selfish to me.

Always ph your nutrients after mixing everything in. If you use Recharge, ph before the Recharge. If you ensure your ph meter is calibrated and use good water your plants should recover because they will be able to uptake all the good stuff properly, as others have mentioned. I even ph my nutrients in distilled water before giving to plants to ensure good ph going in. I’m using Coco Fiber (Tupur). I aim for 5.8 but I usually settle for 6.0-6.1 sometimes as high as 6.3. I hope this helps you out!:smoking:

 

[Unique]

The runoff Ph 6.3. Why the Ph is lower than I put in with 6.8? Maybe the rest incorrect water Ph from last watering? Next time bigger flush?

you don't need check run off, as long as your ph'ing to your desired ph and are 100% confident that is on before giving to them, there is no reason to be checking run off.. The reason should be higher then 6.0 because if it drops even slightly nothing will be taken up, thats already on low side.. Really I'm in coco and run my ph at 5.98... I tried other ph ranges for coco and find that to be optimal for me, regardless of what charts or anyone else says.. You already know 6.0 wasn't working for ya, since thats where you had, now you went to a range the plant can accept it will take a couple to few days in soil to see a difference, none of the damaged growth may get better, but plant will look healthier and thrive more...

 

[Unique]

:smoking:Hi Andi! I’ll suggest this to help you prevent this from reoccurring. Don’t use tap water at all until final flush, if you flush at all. Aim for 6.3-6.8 even as high as 7 ph in soil and forget the runoff. There are too many variables that factor into runoff. Its easier to ensure that your ph going in the medium is on point than it is coming out.

Tap water has been the single most reason my grows resulted in necrotic leaves and ph swings. Distilled water/bottled water is ok for soil just make sure you have good calmag inputs. You'll see yellow leaves soon without it. Bottled water never let me down in a pinch. As a matter of fact, I now go to a “water store” to have it bottled in 5 gallon bottles vs buying single gallons from the grocery store. I can’t keep adding 30 plus 1 gallon plastic bottles per grow to this beautiful planet, that’s selfish to me.

Always ph your nutrients after mixing everything in. If you use Recharge, ph before the Recharge. If you ensure your ph meter is calibrated and use good water your plants should recover because they will be able to uptake all the good stuff properly, as others have mentioned. I even ph my nutrients in distilled water before giving to plants to ensure good ph going in. I’m using Coco Fiber (Tupur). I aim for 5.8 but I usually settle for 6.0-6.1 sometimes as high as 6.3. I hope this helps you out!:smoking:

I use tap water throughout entire grow without issue...I don't run plain water until last 7-10 days before harvest.. But even the water I mix nutes with is tap water....I guess depends on your water & how many ppm your starting with & things of that nature, Plus some people have well water, which is very good... Not everyone can afford distilled water or an RO system, they grow fine inside/outside without all that special water, imo....I couldn't imagine having buy 4-5 gals of distilled water a day or how much an RO system would cost to produce as much as needed to fed 2 twice daily with 6 plants, probably several hundred... Plus all extra calmag needed because of ro water,i go through massive amount of calmag as it is,w/o RO water......

 

[og busti]

I've gone through your journal and I will confidently say this is textbook root aphid infestation damage. Brew a neem meal/kelp meal tea 1x/week at 1/2 tsp neem meal and 1/4 tsp kelp meal per 1 gallon (bubble for 24 hrs) then dilute to 5 gallons and use as a soil drench. Alternating this tea with other organic IPM treatments will take you to harvest without much further damage but it won't eliminate the problem.

pH swing between 5.5-6.5 in your medium is not the reason for your issues.

You must to address the pest situation in your grow medium. This explains why no solutions have worked thus far, and nothing will continue to work for you if you keep treating the problem as if your percieved deficiencies/imbalanced element levels and/or pH is the cause.. If anything all the "flushing" you've been doing has been delaying the damage slighly - do you notice more "deficiencies" appearing as the pot becomes more dry? Textbook root aphids.

To clarify myself... yes, you are getting deficiencies. However the deficiencies you see are resulting from root aphids sucking the nutrients out of the roots, and also taking the nnutrients from the medium before your roots are able to encounter it. In both mechanisms they block your plant from uptaking what it needs.

Just an idea for you to think about, I could be wrong, but I'm 99% sure this is your issue. Hope this helps.