Sick Sour Diesel, please help

[MIAutomatic]

Okay, attached some pics of the whole plant.
Are you saying leave out Cal-Mag entirely? As in the direct application of cal-mag powder when prepping the soil and BC concentrate cal-mag during waterings?
Am i missing any nutrients? See sulphur recommendation above...
I suspect it can be some type of lockout as well, will measure the tap water ppm an get back to you.
Underfertlized!!!! With ???!?? if you look in latest pics i tried to push it up to 500ppm and the tips got a little burnt, but then again she isn'nt well so anything can happen i guess.

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There is more than one thing going on here, but almost all tap water has enough calmag to maintain a plant in a peat based soil. Adding some to your soil mix is still fine as long as you add the correct amount. Adding additional calmag to tap water is not necessary.

trio is not inherently hot, but it can be when mixed with the soils. I am not familiar with the soil you used, but if it’s a fairly standard peat mix then it’s probably pretty low EC value compared to OF or even HF. Which means your primary nutrients are coming from the trio, and probably not much from the soil.

There could be a lot of other issues that are causing the problems , but the way the yellowing is progressing looks like N deficiency, which usually starts at the bottom and and works it way up. Overfeeding will usually start closer to the top and cause more burning and curling. Lockout can cause the appearance of both of these symptoms at the same time sometimes making diagnosis difficult.

If you overwatered during veg that could have slowed root development and now be causing the slower growth and appearance of nutrient burn, there are just so many factors to consider. Most of the issues I see here are related to over feeding causing nutrient burn or over watering causing slow growth, and often both. Your problem does not appear to be quite so straight forward and will require a more careful diagnosis.

 

[Bill.de.Cat]

As a side note, I use the HF and so far it has been good through the veg stage with only water(R/O, distilled)and kinda petering out during the begining of flower when I start bloom nutes. Some people have had problems with the OF being a bit hot for seedlings. Have used some nutes, MegaCrop and this round trying the AN PH perfect since I went to autopots. Always new bags of HF for each grow saving the spent stuff to use as a base for building a soil later.

 

[dereliktdrmz]

There is more than one thing going on here, but almost all tap water has enough calmag to maintain a plant in a peat based soil. Adding some to your soil mix is still fine as long as you add the correct amount. Adding additional calmag to tap water is not necessary.

trio is not inherently hot, but it can be when mixed with the soils. I am not familiar with the soil you used, but if it’s a fairly standard peat mix then it’s probably pretty low EC value compared to OF or even HF. Which means your primary nutrients are coming from the trio, and probably not much from the soil.

There could be a lot of other issues that are causing the problems , but the way the yellowing is progressing looks like N deficiency, which usually starts at the bottom and and works it way up. Overfeeding will usually start closer to the top and cause more burning and curling. Lockout can cause the appearance of both of these symptoms at the same time sometimes making diagnosis difficult.

If you overwatered during veg that could have slowed root development and now be causing the slower growth and appearance of nutrient burn, there are just so many factors to consider. Most of the issues I see here are related to over feeding causing nutrient burn or over watering causing slow growth, and often both. Your problem does not appear to be quite so straight forward and will require a more careful diagnosis.

okay, so when is cal-mag supposed to be used, if at all then?
I can try uppin the to 1ml a gallon as recommedation is 2ml in GB/TB.
Would flushing make sense at this point? I only have access to tap water not RO or distilled water, i have brita tap filter if that can work lol .

 

[Big Sul]

2 observations:

- a quick look at Sungro Sunshine Mix shows they amend with dolomite Lime AND Silica, and you are regularly adding BOTH So adding cal mag may have created a lockout of K From too much Mg.

- I also understand the thought of being underfed, based on this simple application and your low ppm feedings
-

• Read Spear has a simple dianosis: Spotted leaves and no pests or pathogens, plant is either over fed of PH too low. If it has chlorotic leaves ( yellow ) at the top of the plant/branches, its a micro nutrient deficiency or lockout. If it's chlorotic at the bottom and progressing upward, it's N and possibly P or K ( usually N ).

Im not an expert at all. I just look for common problems.

 

[MIAutomatic]

okay, so when is cal-mag supposed to be used, if at all then?
I can try uppin the to 1ml a gallon as recommedation is 2ml in GB/TB.
Would flushing make sense at this point? I only have access to tap water not RO or distilled water, i have brita tap filter if that can work lol .

You need some calmag in your soil mix, but most soil brands take this into account. For example Fox Farm, Roots and Promix all add calmag supplements to their soil blends. All are peat based and if you are using tap water and in a peat mix you should never need to add any calmag. If you were using coco you would need to add calmag or if you switched to RO water you would need to add calmag since RO water does not have much if any calmag.

I would not “flush”, but watering to a little extra runoff (20-30%) to clear out any stuff built up in the root zone might help. Flushing is more drastic and can cause more problems than it solves. I would not recommend it.

I hope this helps.

 

[Big Sul]

My last grow had problems as a result of doing what others did and not KNOWING my starting medium. I recommend understanding what you have vice what you can add. I’m NOT saying to stop or add anything, but rather understand WHY are you adding it? What symptoms presented themselves for you to decide to add cal mag? if I understand your setup and as I previously stated, your base soil has dolomite lime & silica added. that, with the use of tap water is all u should need. So my question is why do you continue to add both? Also, I recommend getting a handle on ph. 5.9-7.0 is a wide range. I do 6.4 in soil. ALWAYS.

You got this.

 

[dereliktdrmz]

i started adding the cal-mag as plants always looked weak and couldn't even hold the weight of the buds, albeit the leaves were green, an that lead to an improvement on leaf quantity and well as speed of growth during vegetation.
As for the silica i saw an immediate improvement as well in terms of the thickness of the stalks and strength of even the twigs, ex: some of those wilting and crinkled fan leaves are still difficult to outrite pull out lol.
Ok the reason for the range which i more or less keep between 5.9-6 is because i read different minerals are absorbed at different PH and generally the plant likes a slight variation to uptake different stuff. This assumption could be wrong however as there is so much conflicting info on cultivation available on the internet its impossible to know right from wrong for us noobs .


Well kinda read the advice on the flush a bit late as i proceeded with flush earlier to avoid continuing issues.
My tap water was really dirty today, unlike most days, and PPM was off the chart so maybe the usage of this tap water, cal-mag powder amended soil AND BC cal-mag during waterings is overkill and this condition definetely started occuring after beginning to use the cal-mag supplements.

Will let you fellas know what takes place in a week time if she doesn't bite d dust.

 

[Big Sul]

Do not take what I say as “the gospel”, however I believe that your sungro mix is soil which means you are VERY low on ur ph. While 6-7 is the range, 6.3-6.7 is the sweet spot. You are correct in Nutes being absorbed at different ph. Regarding adding cal mag and silica the following thread talks about BALANCE. correct me if I’m not understanding, but you added calmag cuz plants looked weak, NOT presenting as a calmag def, correct? This can take things out of balance. Calmag has 2-0-0 NPK. So while it made leaves looking better (if in fact that was the reason) it effects the balance. Same with Silica, but I don’t have any insight to Si defs, so I can’t speak to that. When things get out of balance, lockout can happen.

How old are they?

Tutorial - A word on Nutrients

The proper use of “salt” based fertilizer to grow Auto Flowering Cannabis. Salts: Natural and man made any chemical compound formed from the reaction of an acid with a base, with all or part of the hydrogen of the acid replaced by a metal or other cation. Learning how to use salt based...

www.autoflower.org

the following is taken from above thread:

Nutrient mix in the proper PH range allows the roots to intake the nutrient ions the plant needs. When the PH is wrong The elements cannot enter the roots.

PH for the nutrient mix for soil is 6.4 - 6.7
PH for the nutrient mix for Peat is 6.3 -6.4
PH for the nutrient mix for Coco is 5.8 to 6.2
PH for the nutrient mix for hydro is 5.8 to 6.2

Regarding the flush, how much water did you use, and did you Ph the water? If so, what Ph? Did you check the Ph of the run off?

FYI, I went thru this on my first grow. I know how this feels.

 

[dereliktdrmz]

it actually had the rust spots like a cal-mag deficiency would show and the extremely wispy stalks and main branch, hence i added the cal-mag AND the silica. The plants are about 6-7 weeks old.
As for the flush i don't have any means to *PH* the water per-se, the water used as shown above has a PH of 6.33 and i probably used 3 liters or so until the runoff was clear, i didn't measure run off.

Yep its one thing or the next with these plants, you see the diaries an awesome pics and you think this is easy but boy it hella difficult!!!

 

[Big Sul]

you got this. We just keep on learning.