Lighting Show us how your hanging, cob frames and mounting.

Got some pretty good news for my build future. My good friend runs a CNC at work and has plenty of time to work on my little projects. So I got him the specs on the pin heatsinks and he is going to cut out pieces like these for me.

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Now I can span the side rails of any my 80/20 bar and the options are endless. He is going to pump out a few dozen for me and I'll see what I can do with them.
 
You are on to something big here bro. The stars are aligning BiGSmO and I see you getting into the business.
My heart is in it that's for sure. You guys know what I'm running and I'm very greatful to have the funds to buy such great lights. To be honest I think it's a deal even at face value. But not everyone has 3grand to spend on a 4x12 space. Thats where I think DIY comes in and fills that gap. But I also feel there is a small problem with DIY and that's the limited availability of parts to put these things together. With 80/20 there is unlimited configurations and it is in my eyes the best material you could use in a build.
While still having the option to disassemble in minutes and reassemble in a different way.
 
Don't know if I'll be able to describe it, but here's an idea that just flashed in my head that would give you even greater flexibility. With that mounting ring that you're buddy with access to CNC is going to make, how about this? Make the point where it mounts to your 80/20 a kind of block with the bolt hole through it to mount to the 80/20. Then have a 1/2 inch or so pin sticking out the side. The ring that the passive heat sink mounts to would have holes that the pins fit into, with a small torx or similar screw to put tension on the pin. The idea is that it would allow you to pivot the mount for the light slightly so you could tilt in inward/outward on the fixture to fine tune the aim if you were running a plant between two COB's.

Make sense? Wish I sould draw worth a flip to mock it up. :baked:
 
Don't know if I'll be able to describe it, but here's an idea that just flashed in my head that would give you even greater flexibility. With that mounting ring that you're buddy with access to CNC is going to make, how about this? Make the point where it mounts to your 80/20 a kind of block with the bolt hole through it to mount to the 80/20. Then have a 1/2 inch or so pin sticking out the side. The ring that the passive heat sink mounts to would have holes that the pins fit into, with a small torx or similar screw to put tension on the pin. The idea is that it would allow you to pivot the mount for the light slightly so you could tilt in inward/outward on the fixture to fine tune the aim if you were running a plant between two COB's.

Make sense? Wish I sould draw worth a flip to mock it up. :baked:
Wow Ozone that's an idea! If I could get him to rig it up for me that would help big time In full cost imitation.

Something else that's good with 80/20 that most people might not know about is how it all just bolts together in slots so everything is adjustable. Even the heatsinks that hold the cobs. If bars were built the cobs could be slid in any configuration and possibly even be tiltable
 
Made some progress today at the CNC. Hopefully I can have some frames put together this coming week to show off how beautiful tree DIY lights can be
 

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What thickness plate are you using big?
I wanted 1/2 inch titanium but he said it was to expensive lol. Going to use 3/16 alum instead. But what's nice is the metal he is using is the best of the best. I have seen a lot of cheaper metal used in water jets and they come out pretty sloppy. The pressure can actually seperate the metal in places but typically more so on the initial penetrations. Softer aluminum also leaves rougher edges and ridges that should be sanded. Waiting on pictires and I'll post what I have when they are done
 
Cool! Your first pic looked like really thick material. My lil brain is bouncing all over the place with what you are doing. Awsome job
 
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